I'm shopping for a 7" or 8" for a 2005 F-350 PS w/38's, having a tough time deciding on the brand to choose. Researched Superlift , Fabtech , DR and Pro Comp, still can't decide. Any recommendations? Are dual front shocks worth spending extra $$$ on, what about reservoir shocks? and tractions bars? Maybe 15-20% off-road use. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Unless you are gonna be doing some high speed racing or airing out an SD, the dual shocks are just gonna make your ride stiff. Save the cash and just get a good set of Bilsteins, Fox, etc.

As far as the lift itself, everybody has their preference; that is pretty much the reason for this thread. Check some of the posts, as guys have put in their preferences and experiences with most of those kits.

 

I have some questions about lifting a 2000 250 7.3. Should I post them here or start a new thread?

 

BRF250SD do you remember who's truck that is on the bottom row in the center? I think I got beat by that truck in a burn-out contest last weekend in Springfield, MO at the 4x4 Nationals. He took 2nd. I got 3rd. Sadly we were both beat by a 540ci Chevy.

 

Sorry, off hand I only remember a few of the guys trucks that I put in that picture.

Just go into the gallery search and enter some of the criteria and it'll help you narrow down the search.

As far as lifting your truck, that's what we have this thread for, so ask away. Check a few of the posts in this thread, as they may help answer a lot of your questions.

 

I just finished installing a 4" Super Lift on my 2000 F250 Ext cab V10.

Its down getting an allignment right now so Ive only got to drive it 1/2 mile.

I did the install myself in my driveway with nothing but hand tools. Took me about 4 days. I went with replacement rear springs on top of the factory blocks in the back.

Couple things about Super lift. There instructions suck in a big way. They have an incomplete parts list in the instructions, so you dont know if you have everything or not. It doesnt go into any detail on many parts of the install. I found myself installing items and then taking them back off and redoiing it. I also had problems with Super Lift and the shop I ordered from. I was shipped the wrong front end kit, and the wrong front springs. I was shipped the V8 springs instead of the V10/diesel springs. Didnt know it until the install was complete. I was also sent an early 2000 or late 99 front end kit, u-bolts and other things were wrong. Again didnt know until after the install.

The back was a piece of cake. Everything went right together no problems.

The truck sits perfectly level. Even with the wrong springs in the front. I cant wait to drive it.

One question, do I need to do the carrier bearing spacer? I have the spacers I just don't know if it is required or optional. I havent got to really drive it yet so I don't know if I need it or not.

Another question, do you need a drop pitman arm to get the steering wheel back to center with a 4" lift?

 

The drop pitman arm won't center your steering wheel, it's there to maintain the angle with your track bar that centers the axle from left to right, but they should take care of that with the alignment. If there is a big different in the angle that those two are at, you'll get some weird steering / wandering. I'm assuming it came with a track bar drop bracket. If so, check the angle between that and the drag link (the bar coming off the pitman arm). Those two, ideally, should be parrallel.

As far as the carrier bearing drop, you'll know if you need it pretty quick. If you are getting vibration from the driveline, then you'll need to install it. It won't be anything real serious, but it will be really annoying.

Just remember to go back through all you bolts after 250 - 500 miles and re-torque everything, as it has a tendency to settle and loosen.

Post some pics when you get it back.

BFR

 

2003 F-350 Crew cab long bed 6.0 diesel... 6.5 pro comp, dual resavoirs, 325/80/16 Pro Comp Extreeme A/T on 10" Welds w/4.56's .Love the whole set up. The tires are very aggressive and super quiet. Just wanted to let people considering a lift that you do not need to but that extra gear/tire size calculator to make your speedometer correct after installing larger tires or different gears. Your Ford dealer can adjust your computer according to your tires revelutions per mile and change the setting. It actually takes about 5-10 minutes to do.

 

I have researched the heck out of this - Fabtech are the only ones making a lift for the my 2005 2wd. 6" only. I am planning on installing this kit as soon as the $ arrives. Looks like the hardest part will be to R&R the pitman arm. The fabtech kit lowers the I-beams and radius arm attachment points to keep the geometry correct; i would bet using spacers would mess it all up.....

I will follow up with a review as soon as I get it in.

 

I got the truck back. I have pics in my gallery. Yes it did come with a track bar drop bracket. The steering feels better than stock, the ride is better than stock. It looks awsome. And yes I do need the carrier bearing shims, I'll be doing that tomorrow, it is very anoying.

I love the Super Lift kit that I got I just had a really bad time between Super Lift and the shop I ordered from. Anyone in the Bakersfield, Ca. area should stay clear of California Truck Accessories.

 

Heck yeah brother! That looks good.

Something seems familiar about it..........I can't quite pin point it though.

 

It's actually imperative that the speed signal be corrected on our trucks when you change gears or tire size. Besides knowing how fast you're going, the PCM uses it for a variety of functions including the tranny shift points and more importantly the ABS. Also it's my understanding that on the 6.0 the PCM can only be adjusted as low as 600 revolutions/mile, which is okay for the average Goodyear or BFG up to a 35" tire that is actually less than 35", but anything bigger and the PCM is going to be off enough to throw shift points out of whack.

 

Envirocon... You're correct, The stock computer will only let you go down to 600 revs per mile. Stock is about 647. With my 325-80-16's which are sopposed to be 37x13.00's and 600 revs per mile programmed in the pcm, it was within 1/2 mile per hour according to my handheld GPS. I also had a truck with 35's and 615 worked out good in the pcm. When I changed the ring and pinion to 4.56's, it did not change the speedometer at all. The speedometer sensor has to be run along with the abs sensor in the rear axle housing sensing the actual ring gear speed since my speedometer did not change.

 

The speedo is read off of the tone ring that is attached to the ring gear. Changing gears in a Super Duty does not effect your speedo. You can change every gear in the drive train and not effect it. Only tire size throws of the SD's speedo.

 

There's still that little bit of "old school" left in me (and I'm only 40), where you changed gears, you had to correct the speedo.

ON EDIT: When I put my my SSR TSL 35" tires on, the 600 rpm's the dealer set the PCM to had the speedo off by about 3 mph and as much as 4.5 mph, according to the little Magellan gps. The speedo would read correct at 10, 20, and 30 mph, but as soon as I hit 40-45 mph it was about 4.5 mph off, then 3 mph at 70 mph. So I went with a Superlift TruSpeed and was able to get the speedo to read almost dead on (@1/10 mph off) at all speeds. This was actually better than the 1.4 mph it was off with the stock size tires.