Front Hub TSB?
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Senior User
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From: Nassau Co. NY
Front Hub TSB?
I brought my '03 F-250 4x4 5.4 to the shop yesterday to get a state inspection and have them investigate a clunking in the front end. I get a phone call a few hour later from the service writer. She says that "both front spindels are wiped out and need to be replaced". I kindly ask her where the spindels are and if I could talk to the tech. She in turn throws the attitude at me and says that she is busy. I go to the dealer 10 min. later and she throws a fit about how I was rude to her. Anyway the tech tells me that the needle bearings in the hubs have gone bad and there is an upgraded ball bearing hub that they dont have in stock. Has anyone heard of this before? Whats up with the front ends of these trucks? What happened to "Built Ford Tough"? Eating up front end parts is more like Built Chevy Tough is you ask me.
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From: Long Island USA
Needle bearings? The only needle bearings in the front end are the ones where the front axles ride inside of the wheel bearing assembly.
Ford doesn't sell them seperately, you have to buy the entire wheel bearing, but the bearing # is B-2110 (National) used on Dana 44 front-ends since the late 70's. I just did this work myself, and payed about $15 each (or even less, don't remember) for the needle bearings.
If you are paying for this yourself, tell them to get you JUST the needle bearings or get them yourself and hand them to the tech. Of course, with all the labor involved, it's still going to be expensive, but at least you don't need to replace the >$200 wheel bearings.
Get back to me for more info on this...
Also, after all is said and done, write a nice letter to the service manager and/or owner of the place and explain the RUDE woman... I wouldn't let that slide.
art k.
Ford doesn't sell them seperately, you have to buy the entire wheel bearing, but the bearing # is B-2110 (National) used on Dana 44 front-ends since the late 70's. I just did this work myself, and payed about $15 each (or even less, don't remember) for the needle bearings.
If you are paying for this yourself, tell them to get you JUST the needle bearings or get them yourself and hand them to the tech. Of course, with all the labor involved, it's still going to be expensive, but at least you don't need to replace the >$200 wheel bearings.
Get back to me for more info on this...
Also, after all is said and done, write a nice letter to the service manager and/or owner of the place and explain the RUDE woman... I wouldn't let that slide.
art k.
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From: Nassau Co. NY
That was the other thing. I let them diagnose the problem and tell me what was wrong before I told them that I had a Ford Premium Care extened warranty. They were not real happy about that. Why does it seem like they are always try to screw someone? Would the problem have changed if they knew it was warranty? Besides it should have showed up when they ran the oaisis report on the truck. I think that they are changing out the wheel bearings on both sides, at least thats how it sounds. As for the writer. She will most likely get an ear full by the time I'm done. I'll let you know how it works out.
Where are you on the Island? Know any good dealers in Nassau?
Where are you on the Island? Know any good dealers in Nassau?
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From: Long Island USA
I'm in Lindenhurst, the only dealer I ever dealt with with warranty stuff was Newins in Bay Shore. They were pretty good, but had to be told of things that were wrong - otherwise it was a 3-trip deal to get anything right.
If it's under warranty, let them do the work - if the needle bearing is REALLY bad, it'll wipe out the axle stub and that'll have to be changed too - BIG $ after a while.
To me, if they changed their tune after finding out it was an extended warranty, that means they were probably trying to shaft you. If they are still doing the same work even though it's warranty, I'll bet they got the diagnosis right, but were trying to charge a bigger # of hours than the "shop manual" calls for. Warranty work, they'll only get paid the "shop hours" that the book says. If Joe-schmo tech breaks a stud or can't find the right socket, they don't get paid for the extra time. If you're paying the bill, it's total elapsed time.
Sometimes, when getting work done that you yourself have to pay for, it might pay to negotiate the price based on "book hours" ...
(can't remember the exact term for it - the Ford service manuals (and Chiltons/Motors/etc) will usually list the # of hours required to do a repair. Warranty work, they only get paid what the book says. If you pay, it's total elapsed time).
art k.
If it's under warranty, let them do the work - if the needle bearing is REALLY bad, it'll wipe out the axle stub and that'll have to be changed too - BIG $ after a while.
To me, if they changed their tune after finding out it was an extended warranty, that means they were probably trying to shaft you. If they are still doing the same work even though it's warranty, I'll bet they got the diagnosis right, but were trying to charge a bigger # of hours than the "shop manual" calls for. Warranty work, they'll only get paid the "shop hours" that the book says. If Joe-schmo tech breaks a stud or can't find the right socket, they don't get paid for the extra time. If you're paying the bill, it's total elapsed time.
Sometimes, when getting work done that you yourself have to pay for, it might pay to negotiate the price based on "book hours" ...
(can't remember the exact term for it - the Ford service manuals (and Chiltons/Motors/etc) will usually list the # of hours required to do a repair. Warranty work, they only get paid what the book says. If you pay, it's total elapsed time).
art k.
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From: Boiling Springs,S.C.
how to service needle bearing
Someone please tell me the best way to go about serving the needle bearings on a 03’ Super Duty with a Dana 60. Are there any special tools I need to buy? I’ve done brake jobs before, but have never delt with the wheel bearing assembly. The book calls for repacking the bearings at 60k. Is this correct or should it be done sooner? Thanks for any help. 
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From: Long Island USA
No special tools, just plenty of muscle...
Remove the wheel, brake caliper and rotor.
Then, undo the locking hub, remove the lock-ring and remove the entire wheel bearing assembly (four studs behind "knuckle").
Once you do that, it'll be obvious where the needle bearing is
Remove the wheel, brake caliper and rotor.
Then, undo the locking hub, remove the lock-ring and remove the entire wheel bearing assembly (four studs behind "knuckle").
Once you do that, it'll be obvious where the needle bearing is
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: BC, Canada
For some pictures of the needle bearing and how to access it take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ce+ball+joints
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From: Boiling Springs,S.C.
Hey, Thanks for the quick reply. Just more question. Do you try to pack the bearing while it's on the spindale or does it slide off? Thanks for the help. 
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LI250, If you have a Ford extended warranty the dealer knows that when they enter your vehicle vin# into their computer. There's no need to bring it to their attention, any Ford dealer that enters your vin#, will see that you have an extended warranty.
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From: Nassau Co. NY
Yeah I know but I guess the writer missed that. Does'nt the oaisis report give them a complete history of the vehcile. I had to tell them that the ball joints were repaired at another dealer and that info should have been on there also.
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Senior User
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From: Nassau Co. NY
Well I got the truck back today and it's all fixed. They replaced the hub bearings and the needle bearings. It's nice not having that clunk anymore. The service writer even appologized for being rude.
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by LI250
Well I got the truck back today and it's all fixed. They replaced the hub bearings and the needle bearings. It's nice not having that clunk anymore. The service writer even appologized for being rude.
