I have been having trouble with carburation but have also had a miss under power that I was pretty sure wasn't related to this. I"ll save my carb question for another post.

My 226 had the following compression when checked at normal operating temperature with all the plugs removed. #1-110, #2-110, #3-100, #4-70, #5-100, #6-105. I then added a little oil to each cylender and checked again. #1-120, #2-120, #3-110, #4-80 I didn't write the numbers down for the last two because of depression, but I do recall they both moved up similiar to all the others.

My conclusion points to valves. I recently replaced the head gasket and it is acting just like it did before the gasket change.

Is there any chance that I could remove the head and valve and do any good without having to pull the engine and go through it, or am I in it for the full meal deal. I eventually want to go through the entire engine but would like to keep it running and usable as long as my grandfather is around. He is a great guy who I am very close to. He has asked for the casket to be carried in the truck. He is 83 and healthy but I want to make sure the truck is available. We talked on the phone tonight and we each had our repair manuals out telling each other which page to look to for information. It was great, he worked the oilfield all his life and loves mechanical equipment.

Did all of the 50 model 226 sixes have adjustable tappet's? The manuals wording makes me think they did not. I havn't looked yet. I have read about having to adjust the tappets on a flat 8 but never on the six. Could I be lucky enough that maybe something is out of adjustment??(probably not).
Has anyone adjusted the tappets on a six with the manifold in place? It looks as if I can remove the cover, I"m just not sure if I can do a good job with the close clearances. Both valves on that cylinder are moving and are not stuck, I didn't notice anything unusual on the valves when I replace the head gasket.

If I purchase a spring compressor is there one out there that works best for this engine??

Thanks for the replies.


Sincerely,

Frustrated

 

When I was a boy I remember my dad doing a valve job along side the road - times were hard then, and towing was out of the question, as well as paying a mechanic.

I don't remember all the details, but he did hand lap a valve - it was burned so he bought a new valve and used it to dress the seat. I think the seat is less apt to get burned as it has the mass of the motor to soak up the heat.

Just remember to be very careful to get all the lapping compound out of the engine. You can guess what it will do to your mains and rods.

I will let someone with more experance answer about adjusting the valve - but it sure sounds like you have one burned, and it will only get worse if you don't fix it.

 

Third Coast, I looked in my old "Motor's Truck Repair Manual" (circa 1955; and it smells like it's from 1955 ).

It has the procedure to adjust the valves on a 1948-1952 L-head six.

If you want, let me know and I'll PM you the instructions.

I don't recall any hydralic lifters back then, but I could be wrong.

 

Third Coast, I just sent you a PM.

Sorry for the delay. Explained it in the PM.

 

Sounds like #4 is the problem, the Flathead 6 had a problem with head warping between the number 3 and 4 cylinder. My 51 226 was blowing water out the exhaust pretty good there for awhile, it seems to have stopped for now. I purchased a 226 for parts and you could see in the head on #3 and #4 cylinder the water mark and all carbon was gone. My truck had sat for at least 12 years prior to my purchase and some of the valves were stuck open. I poured a lot od Marvel Mistery oil in them and let it sit for a couple weeks and finally mananged to get it running. I had problems with one of the valves sticking open off and on till I started driving it daily.
There is an access panel built into the inner fender to access the valve/lifter galley behind the right front wheel. I think if I were going to pull the head and valve covers I would also pull the manifold. But untill the head is off to see what is wrong it's hard to tell how far you will need to go. If it's a valve seat problem you will probably need to pull it and take it to a machine shop. You can do a valve job on it yourself, my dad purchased a valve grinding set back in the 50s that I still have. It has a seat resurfacing tool that can be run with a drill motor. And it also has a valve grind fixture, but one could just have them ground at the local Napa store. If you elect to do a valve job you will probably need to install new valve guides because the post the seat grinding tool goes on probably won't fit tight in the worn guides. If you pull the head besure to use an impact tool to remove the bolts. It helps keep the head bolts from breaking. I used one on that parts engine I tore down and it worked well.
To my knowledge the 226 (H) series all used adjustable lifters, the earlier (G) series used the non-adjustable type.
If you need parts I would try Egge Machine, or Kantor they seem to be about the best sources.