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you take off the fabric cover, and then unscrew the pannel which covers almost the whole inside of the door
That is if your Bronco even has the fabric cover on the t-gate. Neither of my XLT's ever had one. The inspection cover is held to the inner surface of the gate with about ten (10) trim screws. Remove them and you can access the regulator for the rear glass and the motor. BE CAREFUL when working inside the tailgate. The regulator is spring loaded to help keep the window from falling should something go haywire. Its a good idea to do the work with the gate down unless the window just flat won't come down. In that case, you will need to release the regulator which may allow the window to drop a bit when you do. Removing the motor from the regulator will allow the regulator (and the window) to move without the motor operating. Again, the process requires some careful assesment of the components and extreme cautoin when choosing a location for your fingers when you do anything inside the gate. If the motor is working or you suspect something else is the problem keeping the window from dropping, a look insdie the gate through the insp. cover openings should give you a good idea what you are up against.
Thats pretty much where I'm at. I can hear a slight click when using the key in the t-gate, but the window is SNUG.
I'll see what I can do I'm afraid of doing something and breaking the glass(I don't know if it matters with it being an '84 but its all original except for the stereo).
Is that glass heavy? Or is it the fact that it'll drop unexpectantly?
you take off the fabric cover, and then unscrew the pannel which covers almost the whole inside of the door
I'll get you a pic of the interior, there's no headder pannel, no carpet, no power windows/locks; only fabric inside this truck is the seats.
I took the motor out of mine recently. I was warned that the glass could fall when the motor is removed. I put a 2X4 inside the gate to hold the glass while I removed the motor. When I got through I had to push the glass down. My regulator may have been gummed up and that is probably why mine did not fall. The hardest part was working in the back of the bronco while laying on my side. I was savy enough to make sure it was parked in the shade and I did it in the morning. It was not hard to remove it. The tough part was putting the motor back in because you can't get your hands in there very well. Make sure you grease up all the runners while you are in there. It will help the glass slide up and down better.
1988 EB Bronco - 302 - AOD - 3.55 Lim Slip 8.8- Manual Hubs and Transfer Case - BFG 32/11.5 AT - 209,000 miles
Lowered one at a junkyard a few years ago by bringing one of those car jump boxes (car battery type) along and connecting the wires from the key switch. Apparently just lost the connection back to the front of the rig, so we supplied the power and it lowered no problem!
few months ago i had to get a new window out of the junkyard man that sucked, it was about 110 degrees in the back of that one and laying down in it didnt help much i just unbolted the window from the tracks