When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just put radiator in this evening, filled it up, andI got two lil' pinholes peeing out on my front crossmember. This is a secondhand rad I bought to hold me until late summer when I can afford a new one. Does anyone know of a tip or trick to seal it myself? I have tried various "sealants" before in other trucks, most didn't do a good job. I'm a little leary about what to try now. Any one try soldering their rad on the outside? The pinholes are right on a seam. I've got less than a clue about radiators. Any help would be great. Blair
why not just take it too a good shop and see what they will charge to fix those holes----I don't thimk you want to fool with it--sometimes its better to pay a professional than do it yourself---I have had to fix things twice---one when i tried and I didn't know what i the hell i was doing and then i got smart and let a knowledgeable mechanic fix it correctly!!!good luck , fd :-X11
Well, if the holes are in the tank area, you could try JB Weld. I've used that in the past on cracks, and it works great. Just be sure to sand the area before applying, and it will hold much better.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Jun-02 AT 00:23 AM (EST)]Sorry to say.
if you have pin holes I'd say that rad is going rotten too.
Take your index finger and run it down the vanes lightly.
If they bend over really easy, The rad is rotten and can cause untimely problems.
No amount of soldering will help if it's too far gone.
Sometimes soldering holes make the rad worse.
If they don't bend easy, the rad has half a chance.
I have seen hundred's like this.
One of my friend's owns the top 5 rad shops in Western Canada.
JB Quick Weld will work as a temp. fix could even last along time. But make sure you drain coolant and clean the problem spots very well. I know what its like to be on a tight budget also.
There is a product call Bars Leak (I think thats the name) that works pretty good on pin holes. It might get you by for a while. Radiator shops might have it.
I hear you about the heater core. A radiator shop told me the Bars leak wouldn't do that. It's supposes to act like your blood and clot when it gets forced through a hole to atmosphere. I've never actually used it.
I picked up something called Coastal Stop Leak. Supposed to do really well. I wouldn't know. I just want to drive her at least once between repairs you know? She hasn't been on the road for a whole month!! :-( A new radiator isn't a big problem, I just don't have the cash until later, and I have a mountain of garbage to haul after this whole timing fiasco. As soon as I get her wired up, I'm gonna try this stop leak, I'm prayin' she hold for a month or two. Thanks alot everyone for their input. Blair
WEll, since I'm still pretty new at working on my own vehicles, I can rarely contribute with any real information. But I have had my fair share of Cooling system problems, and I have rebuilt the whole system minus the pump since I bought my '73.
What I can tell you is that JB Weld worked great on a little Honda 250 dirtbike radiator, but did not hold on my truck rad. Might have been the location of the hole...
I used that Bars Leaks crap once, and it didn't help anything. When I had my rad. rebuilt, the guy at the shop says that stuff plays havoc with cooling systems. Gums up the whole works. You'll probably have to replace the heater core in the future if you use that stuff.
I totally understand not having a bunch of cash to throw around, but I would stay away from the additives. Try JB first and see, but get a better radiator as soon as cash allows.
The thing about stop leak plugging up radiators and heater cores, or stopping up water passages in blocks/heads is an urban legend. Since the mid-eightys ever US auto maker has put in one kind of seallant or another into every new car built. 99% of all "qucik lube" oil change places also put a stop leak in after a raditor flush to pervent pin hole leaks. In the years I worked for Valvoline Oil I never once had a customer complaint, nor ever seen any engine/heater damage, from the use of stop leak.
PS. I think Bar's StopLeak pellets are the best for pinholes esp at seams. If you can't find the pellets then the stuff in oil works good too, but you need a couple of bottles of it.
Hey, the Coastal stop leak has pellets in it and is said to be great at stopping pinhole leaks. As said above, mine are about two inches apart on the same seam. I checked the baffles by running my finger lightly over them as suggested by Mil1ion, they are good. The guy I purchased this from said it was a "tight" rad, he owns a machine shop so I took his word for it. I've heard from alot of the guys that have rods and trucks around here and it's a mixed bunch of opinions. I'm going to try it (Coastal Stop Leak) and hope for the best. Thanks again for everyone's input. Blair
Now don't laugh, but I have seen this work. I laughed before, but not after!
Chewing tobacco. Three pinches should do it. Won't plug the heater core, won't hurt the block, heads or pump, but once it finds the holes, it works.