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Couple questions about horns. I've got a '53 F100 that I'm converting to 12 volt. Do I need to use 12 volt horns or do the horns much care about that? I assume that I could series wire two 6V horns and run them with a 12 V feed. Last, does anyone have an extra driver's side horn that works? Be happy to pay fair price plus shipping. I've bought 2 pair of horns at swap meets and none worked - all rusted to junk under the domed lid. I have one working passenger side horn out of the original truck and would like to get another original, esp. since the mount is special the way it point the horn out the air deflector. Thanks.
If you can find a couple of 6V horns that DO NOT use the body of the horn as a ground, then you can wire them in series and they will work - sort of. The horns have a set of contacts in them and wiring two in series will cause one set of contacts to affect the operation of the other horn. I tried it with some 12V horns and found that I had to adjust the tension on the diaphragm inside to get both of them to sound. Even then they sounded just a little odd.
I really think you are better off getting a pair of 12V horns and wiring them in parallel. Be aware that their are two types of horns - a high pitch and a low pitch. Originally, my 1956 F-250 had one high and one low pitch 12V horn. I've restored two sets of the 12V horns over the last few years and all four of the horn cases were clearly marked as either "HI" or "LO". Unfortunately, I sold the second set a while ago or I'd off it to you.
That's right - I'd forgotten how the horns work by essentially driving a relay-type device connected to the horn diaphragm. So when the contacts open, the far horn gets shut off. Thanks for the reminder and experience.
Anybody got a set of extra 12V horns for a '53 style mount on the sides of the radiator support?
I am running one of each. The original did not work when I got the truck ('53 F100) but after grinding the rivets off, I was able to go inside and clean up the contacts and wiring. A little tweaking and the horn works great on 12v. I put it back together using ss bolts and nyloc nuts. I then picked up another horn, 12v this time, at a swap meet. It worked briefly then died. I ended up breaking it down also but the inside had more rust. I was able to clean up the interior in a similar manner and got it working also. Reaasembled in the same manner and it also works great. Then sandblasted and painted everything, installed in truck with horn relay and both work fine. The tone of both is very similar (low pitch).
The horns are very simple on the inside and the wiring is pretty stout. I don't think I'll have any problems running 12v on the 6v horn.
I have some pics in my gallery of the final installation.
Another vote here for use of 6v horns in a 12v system. Gave them multiple sprays of penetrating oil, opened them up, cleaned and filed the contacts, painted etc. Wire them up on the benchtop first. You should feel the magnet trying to vibrate the diaphragm, (if not she's toast.) and play with the tensioning screw until it sounds off. (Oh yes, put in some earplugs)
Using a resistor I found the 6v horns were weak or not there at all. After taking it out for full 12v juice, the hi-lo s will wake the dogs a couple blocks over with a locomotive tone new cars and trucks dont have.
Perhaps a 3 yr old leaning on the horn for an extended period could damage them and if you are worried about that I suppose a somewhat smaller resistor to get you about 9v would do it.
Remember for the 53-56, only the 56 was truly 12v. Not sure if 57+ used the 56 type unit. New 12v horns are pricey.