Hello all, sorry but this is gonna get a little on the long side, the Truck is a 1978 F150 Ranger Explorer, with 351M, 2BBl carb, not used much in the last 10 Years only 52,000 miles, Belonged to my Grandpa,

Any way I would like to have this truck reliable, to go back and forth to work on the day's that I don't take my Motorcycle, the problem with her is, will start fine after been sitting but after driving, and then trying to startup 10 minutes later, it is a no GO, will flood out, leave sit for an Hour and she's ready to run once again, I don't know much about engines but am willing to learn I just don't have the money to replace stuff that is working. What due I check first Carb? Cap and Rotor? Wires and Plugs?, I need this truck to start every time, I am on the vollie Fire Department and when the whislte blows, I have gotta GO, No if's and or Buts, and it is a long run to the station from work or home LOL,

thanks for your help,

I have pulled the cap and rotor apart and shined the rotor up it looked pretty nasty to me and the cap look's a little chewed up I think this is where I should start but am seeking other opions on this
What should the wires read for resistance if I where to measure them in OHMS?

 

Hi,

Sounds like you should take it to a reputable shop to have the carb cleaned and/or adjusted.

I find that sometimes the choke will come on when it really shouldn't. Also, make sure you don't step on the gas when the motor is warm.

As for the wires, they should read quite low in resistance on your ohm meter, but I'm not sure of the correct value. My guess is between 50-150 ohms.

Hope this helps,

-Brents

 

 

Sounds like you made a contradiction. You said it flooded out and then you started talking about it being electrical. I will start with this assumption: Your truck will not start when it is warm and has been driven for awhile. You then flood it trying to start it. I have a 1978 Ford Ranger 1/2T that started that and finally it would not start at all. It was a bad pickup module in the distributor. The engine heat caused it to break down and after it cooled off it would start. Like I said it eventually left me walking and having it towed in. Good luck.

Bill

 

thanks for the input guy's I talked to a mechanic last night about the truck and he thought the best bet would be the Inginition module, though he said they are kinda pricy, best thing would be to wait till she won't start and then check for spark,

once again thanks for your help and input on this matter,

 

>thanks for the input guy's I talked to a mechanic last night
>about the truck and he thought the best bet would be the
>Inginition module, though he said they are kinda pricy,
>best thing would be to wait till she won't start and then
>check for spark,
>
>once again thanks for your help and input on this matter,


The modules are not that expensive and are easy to change. I bought a higher end one for use when my old one went bad...then bought a cheaper spare I keep behind the seat for "side of the road" changes if need be. I got the cheap one from Autozone (came with lifetime warranty) for less than a 20 from what I remember. I think the high end one was around 60-70. I know alot of guys keeping spares in the truck for just this deal so they don't get stranded......

 

I agree with the guy that said look at the carb. Mine is touchy when warm, it floods easily. If warm I don't touch the gas until it catches. I guess that the ign module could go bad, though.
I don't carry a spare ignition module- I didn't realize that they were so prone to failure. Maybe I will now...