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Question About Locking Hubs

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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 08:48 PM
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2004SUPERDUTY's Avatar
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Question About Locking Hubs

Yesterday my truck started squealing around the front passenger side, anyway it was almost like a whistling sound .. I was kinda worried since my truck only has 25k miles and thought maybe a bearing or something like that was going out.. come to find out someone had turned the hub from auto to lock.. as soon as I changed it back to auto the noise went away.. I only drove it maybe 5 miles.. Would that be a normal noise if the hubs were locked in? and do you think it hurt anything?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 04:21 AM
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damage could occur if left too long like that and you should not have a noise like that when locked in.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 06:09 AM
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When was the last time you locked the hubs in this should be done once a month to make sure that the hubs stay lubricated. There should not be a squealing noise ever.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 06:34 AM
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Had this before as well. When I would put it in 4WD, there would be a squeeling. Turns out there was some rubbing on the disc brake backing plate. Little tweak and it was okay. Pull the wheel of, lock the hub and see if you can see anything rubbing while it's turning. That was an easy fix.

The other problem is not so friendly. You could have the bearings going bad. The unitized bearing assembly that Ford uses in't serviceable and has to be replaced as a whole. It runs between 260 - 400 dollars per side.

Check for rubbing first, as it's an easy fix. You won't have done any damage with a hub locked, all you were doing was tuning the axle shafts and gears, no big deal. You need to do it every so often as stated above.

Oh and welcome to FTE. Hope we started you in the right direction.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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I guess I really do not understand the locking hubs, when the hubs are in auto and I put it in 4x4 , its in 4x4 right? what are the locking hubs for?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 08:55 AM
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Sometimes when they are in auto and you put the transfer case in 4x4, they may not engage. Thats why it is better to put them in lock if you know you are going to use/need 4x4. When you put them in lock, you know they are engaged. When you put them in auto, you hope that the solenoids/vacumn lines do their job when called upon.
The auto feature is basically a convenience feature.
steve
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 09:01 AM
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When in auto and you switch to 4x4, you are in 4WD unless the vacuum system fails, such as a leak, loose connection, etc. The lock position is for this purpose. If the vacuum system fails, you still have 4WD.

Normally, just leave it in auto. If you have it in lock and are driving all you are doing is turning the front axle shafts, gear and drive shaft. The front driveshaft is not engaged at the TC so you aren't damaging anything.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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Thanks For The Info Guys...
 
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 03:32 AM
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Dont the auto hubs have to rotate a certain amount to engage? That is why you have the option to manually lock the hubs...if you cant get enough wheel spin to engage them automatically.

This is all why I prefter fully manual hubs.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 03:37 AM
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This is all why I prefter fully manual hubs.

same here and a manual t case . no need for the fancy stuff.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by racinghoss
Dont the auto hubs have to rotate a certain amount to engage? That is why you have the option to manually lock the hubs...if you cant get enough wheel spin to engage them automatically.

This is all why I prefter fully manual hubs.
That too, but it is a very small amount they have to move. This is only an issue if you bury the truck, before you go to 4WD. Then you just did it to yourself.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Crash687
damage could occur if left too long like that
That's a falacy ... Nothing in that front-end will self-destruct with the hubs (or one) locked.

More real facts:

The needle bearing that sits inside the "unitized" bearing that the axle rides in: It ONLY rotates when the hub is UNLOCKED. If this bearing is bad, it would squeel when the hub is UNLOCKED and NOT squeel when the hub is LOCKED. This needle bearing CAN BE CHANGED without buying a whole new wheel bearing. It's a federal B-2110 or so, I believe - whatever it is, it's the same bearing used back to the 70's in Dana 44 axles. At least, it is for '04 and before.

Why it's squeeling when LOCKED, the only reason I can think of would be if the hub isn't engaging (or it's stripped) or the axle-tube seal is screeching - does 4x4 work? (and what I mean by "work" is go on dirt, and slam the gas to make sure not just the rear-tires are getting power).

art k.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
This is all why I prefter fully manual hubs.

same here and a manual t case . no need for the fancy stuff.
Exactly. I have not learned to trust the electronic 4x4 stuff yet.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by racinghoss
Exactly. I have not learned to trust the electronic 4x4 stuff yet.
no but i have learned to "not" trust it.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 04:50 PM
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What are the steps to replace the needle bearing? Is this a simple process or do I need a real mechanic? I just spent $700 replacing the right hub/bearing assembly. Now I hear noise coming out of the left front wheel when the hub is set to AUTO.
 
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