Trailer Brake Controller causing gremlins.
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 582
Likes: 5
From: New Orleans United States
Trailer Brake Controller causing gremlins.
My dad has a 1995 F-150 with the 300 I-6. He hooked up a trailer brake controller to pull the camper to thier house that flooded with Hurricane Katrina.
It started out as an intermittent problem, now it seems to be all the time. With the truck running, controller connected or not, when you put on the parking lights, the engine speed slows down a little bit. When you pull out the switch all the way to turn on the headlights, it kills the truck instantly like you are turning the key off.
This truck has never had a single mechanical glitch untill this controller was hooked up to the connector under the dash by the transmission hump.
It came from the factory with the towing package.
Now, with the headlights on, and when you try to crank the truck, it will turn over, but sounds like it has no fuel or spark. With the truck cranking, if you turn the headlights off, it will fire right up as soon as you push the headlight switch in.
I am slammed with work due to this damn storm, and promised I would look into it for him. Please let me know if you have heard of this and know any cures.
Thanks,
Robert
It started out as an intermittent problem, now it seems to be all the time. With the truck running, controller connected or not, when you put on the parking lights, the engine speed slows down a little bit. When you pull out the switch all the way to turn on the headlights, it kills the truck instantly like you are turning the key off.
This truck has never had a single mechanical glitch untill this controller was hooked up to the connector under the dash by the transmission hump.
It came from the factory with the towing package.
Now, with the headlights on, and when you try to crank the truck, it will turn over, but sounds like it has no fuel or spark. With the truck cranking, if you turn the headlights off, it will fire right up as soon as you push the headlight switch in.
I am slammed with work due to this damn storm, and promised I would look into it for him. Please let me know if you have heard of this and know any cures.
Thanks,
Robert
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Well, let's think about it.
No problems before the controller, weird electrical problems after.
Sounds to me like the controller isn't installed correctly. Did you follow the instructions exactly? Is there a number in the package that you can call for help?
No problems before the controller, weird electrical problems after.
Sounds to me like the controller isn't installed correctly. Did you follow the instructions exactly? Is there a number in the package that you can call for help?
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 582
Likes: 5
From: New Orleans United States
The problem is still there with the controller completely removed, and the plug back in its factory spot under the dash. I guess I need to put a gage on the fuel rail and see if its fuel or ignition being cut out when it kills. That way I can start tracing it backwards from the injectors or coil.
I'm hoping maybe it'll be as simple as needing a new headlight switch, but i doubt anything could be that simple right now.
I'm hoping maybe it'll be as simple as needing a new headlight switch, but i doubt anything could be that simple right now.
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 582
Likes: 5
From: New Orleans United States
problem solved
Well, I got more details from my dad and sorted it out.
Along with putting in the brake controller, he also changed the battery that was cranking really slow.
The strange part was that the whole time the volt meter in the dash read the same as normal. 12V when off, a little lower when cranking, and approx 14 volts when running.
I traced the problem back to the ground from the negative battery terminal to the body. It was loose where it mounted to the body.
Now, how it had enough amperage through the ground to start the truck, but not enough to keep it running and run the headlights still has me stumped.
However, it now runs like a champ again, and we can hopefully get another 100k miles out of it with regular service and no breakage.
Does the starter have its own ground to the frame?
Along with putting in the brake controller, he also changed the battery that was cranking really slow.
The strange part was that the whole time the volt meter in the dash read the same as normal. 12V when off, a little lower when cranking, and approx 14 volts when running.
I traced the problem back to the ground from the negative battery terminal to the body. It was loose where it mounted to the body.
Now, how it had enough amperage through the ground to start the truck, but not enough to keep it running and run the headlights still has me stumped.
However, it now runs like a champ again, and we can hopefully get another 100k miles out of it with regular service and no breakage.
Does the starter have its own ground to the frame?
