The dealership just did my 60K service, and informed me that the ball joints are going south, the left one more so. Can't believe that they are worn out already, but, based on how the truck wanders slightly, I understand. They want $1500 to replace them. I have no steering/suspension experience except for replacing shocks and struts. I am up for advice and if you are in Colorado, a good private mechanic that might do this type of work?

 

$1500! no way would I let someone do ball joints on my truck for that much. Ball joints arent that hard to do if you are some what machanicly inclinded. im not good at explanning the process, but im sure someone will tell you how shortly. I would do them myself or take it to a independent shop they should charge that much. that is why I dont recomend going to a dealership for anything that isnt warrenty work. They just charge way too much for parts and labor. They are really proud of there work. GL
Scotty

 

if you want to try to do it yourself here are some instructions:
you may have to copy and paste the link. there used to be instructions on this site on how to do it but it looks like they are gone.

 

Just so you feel better, on my '01 upper and lower driver's side at 28,000 mi.
Upper and lower BOTH sides & complete drag link at 36,000 mi. Even though there is a service bulletin out on them, dealerships are still putting their old stock non-greasable units in them. Do not put anything but a greasable unit in, and even though you can reuse the axle seals, I wouldn't. My left one is now leaking. If you can turn a wrench do them yourself. If you don't want to, or have the time, I would find a good independent shop to do them a save a little $$$.

Good luck,

Austin

 

how can one tell when it is time for new balljoints?

 

Your truck will wander all over the road needing constsnt correcting and sometimes there is a popping sound while turning. There is plenty more too.
Do a search and you'll get plenty to read on.
In the meantime this might help you:

Ball Joint Inspection:

Raise and support the vehicle.
Position a safety stand beneath the front axle to be tested
While an assistant pulls and pushes the bottom of the tire, observe the relative movement between the lower spindle arm and the front axle. Any movement at or exceeding the specification indicates a worn or damaged lower ball joint. Replace as necessary.
While an assistant pulls and pushes the top of the tire, observe the relative movement between the upper spindle arm and the front axle. Movement at or exceeding the specification indicates a worn or damaged upper ball joint. Replace the upper ball joint as necessary.

Hope that helps you out some,

Austin

 

I paid a local shop $450 for upper and lowers, get away from that dealer!! Mine went South at 101,000 though.

 

stock ball joints from ford are JUNK... replace them with good quality aftermarket joints that can be greased..! as for having a STEALERSHIP do this kind of work... i don't make that kind of money... and i wouldn't pay them that much to do that work even if i did..!

 

....just wandered in from the OBS forum and was wondering if those instructions from "That Other Site" were valid for a 95 PSD. Too dark to look at it now so figured I'd be lazy and just ask. Thanks!

 

Man I wish I could get grease zerks in these things. So whats the going rate for ball joints. One guy said $450.00 seems reasonable. $1500.00. If they told me that I would trade that truck off immediately an somebody else coyuld replace them. Thats rediculous. Any other price quotations. I dont wanna get ripped off. Chapguy they might be similar I dont know for sure.

 

Mine had to be replaced at 41,000mi. on my 2000 F350. The dealership replaced them and Ford picked up the tab. I heard that the metal that was used for these parts was not hardened to spec`s. Probably came from overseas.

Vinman

 

I'm getting ready to do mine at 170,000. Maybe I got some good ones. I've had the beast airborne many times too. I got the greasable ones from powerstrokeshop.com.

 

So I had the same old problem as everyone else( Ball Joints). First, I would like to say that the posting on the diesel tech sight is a great source of information but, if you have an 2001 like I do, parts of it does not work. As for the removal and replacement of the ball joints they will need to be pressed in and out. A ball joint fork will not work. I could not even find one wide enough from all the normal suppliers. I ended up using a "c" clamp ( one you can put a wrench on the back end to tighten), and some piping to press mine in and out. I must admit I wasted half a day trying to track down the right ball joint tool. Got caught up in the posting instead of thinking it through. I have seen that several people have posted the thousnds of dollars that the dealers are charging to do this job and think they are ripping everyone off. The total job plus the extra wrenches ended up costing about $250. I did not figure my time for the job in there. Ball joints were about $200 from Napa. Tools bought, open/box wrench for lower dall joint 1 15/16" upper 1 1/8",. Some things I learned doing this job, instructions for the new joints call for lower to be torqued @70ftlbs and upper100ftlbs. I had stopped buy the local dealer and asked what the torqued settings should be and the tech told me they normally use an impact on the bottom nut and tighten it as tight as they can. For the top nut they will tighten it up snug ang call that good. Nort sure what is the best way myself but I think I will fallow the directions that came with the new joints. If anyone else found a better way please post up. Hope this helps anyone else that might have questions about this job.

 

Go by what the parts say. If you use an impact wrench like some boneheads do they can bind up and cause a wandering problem because of tightness. Here's the Ford TSB From the dieselmann's page:

99-2001 Super Duty F-Series Steering Wander:
There has been a TSB released for this condition that supercedes Broadcast Message #0236. Ford Is recommending that the truck be driven and inspected to determine if it has stiff steering and/or poor returnability after turns or a wander. Have the alignment checked and corrected if necessary. If aligning does not correct the condition, check the balljoints by performing a steering knuckle torque to turn test: With the wheels pointed straight ahead on an alignment rack turntables, remove the tie rod from the knuckle. Install a bolt and nut into the tie rod hole and tighten. With a click-type torque wrench set to 100 ft/lbs and installed on the bolt so the handle points straight forward, turn the wheel outward. If the wheel turns without the torque wrench cliking, then the turning torque is acceptable. If the wrench clicks before the wheel turns, replace the balljoints. There is a revised greaseable lower ball joint, P/N 1C3Z-3050-AB, but the upper should be replaced with the current part, F6TZ-3049-AA. When reassembling, torque the lower ball joint nut to 35 ft/lbs; torque the upper ball to 70 ft/lbs; advance the nut to the next slot to line up the cotter pin hole; retorque the lower ball joint nut to 140-160 ft/lbs. The the lower ball joint should be greased at each oil change or at 5000 mile intervals. TSB #01-3-2

I removed the cotter pin and retorqued mine after they got a few miles on them. Hope that helps you some.

Good luck,

Austin

 

Thanks for the posting. Just goes to show that even though we pay top dollar for the ford shops to fix these vehicles and they don't fallow the ford tech advs. Go figure......