throttlebody
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From: Alvin, Texas.
The could very well be the case if you didn't do homework such as getting a MAF sensor calibrated to use with that TB unit.
Pull the ECU fuse, drop it back in, and hope the light was just "psyche"ing you out.
Pull the ECU fuse, drop it back in, and hope the light was just "psyche"ing you out.
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From: Phoenix
Adjusted what sensor? What's the relationship between a bigger diameter throttle body to a MAF sensor? The MAF didn't change. CFM is still CFM no matter what size hole it goes through. I'm confused.
The ECU or PCM fuse does power the KAM. You can pull that fuse, 30 Amp #8 I believe, and clear your codes. But pulling the PCM relay will not clear KAM since KM power does not go through - just FYI.
Out of curiosity, why did you go with a larger T-body? I was thinking about it but my tuner said stock is big enough for a stock CAM. Maybe I'll go bigger when I rebuild and use a bigger CAM. He didn't even think a larger MAF makes a difference on a stock motor.
The ECU or PCM fuse does power the KAM. You can pull that fuse, 30 Amp #8 I believe, and clear your codes. But pulling the PCM relay will not clear KAM since KM power does not go through - just FYI.
Out of curiosity, why did you go with a larger T-body? I was thinking about it but my tuner said stock is big enough for a stock CAM. Maybe I'll go bigger when I rebuild and use a bigger CAM. He didn't even think a larger MAF makes a difference on a stock motor.
Last edited by TigerDan; Oct 6, 2005 at 10:27 PM.
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From: Oregon
I had to adjust the throttle position sensor. I got a larger throttlebody because I have an intake and thought they would work well together. So far I notice it is better over stock but it is not a huge increase.
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From: Phoenix
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From: Phoenix
OH - cold air intake. I thought you ment intake manifold. OK!
Hey - by the way. Watch that thing in front of the alternator pulley. Mine got a little too close and cut through a silicon coupler leaving a nice gash. Was a little embarassing when I found it as the truck was sitting on top of a dyno getting a SCT tune...Tuner did rightfully so, give me a concerning look.
Hey - by the way. Watch that thing in front of the alternator pulley. Mine got a little too close and cut through a silicon coupler leaving a nice gash. Was a little embarassing when I found it as the truck was sitting on top of a dyno getting a SCT tune...Tuner did rightfully so, give me a concerning look.
Last edited by TigerDan; Oct 6, 2005 at 10:28 PM.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 249
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From: Santee, CA
BBK makes a nice 66mm TB for the 4.0. I got mine at Summit Racing. I could feel a slight increase in the torque, but think headers would really make the best of this mod, along with a larger MAF and less restrictive intake. More air will do little good if you can't effeciently move more air out as well.
The code you got was probably just the computer freaking out with all the new (different) data it was receiving. That's why it's important to do the "disconnect the negative battery cable" step. It resets the computer so it can start fresh & recalibrate itself.
The code you got was probably just the computer freaking out with all the new (different) data it was receiving. That's why it's important to do the "disconnect the negative battery cable" step. It resets the computer so it can start fresh & recalibrate itself.
Last edited by rebturtle; Oct 6, 2005 at 09:07 PM.
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From: Phoenix
Yeah I was looking at that same TB from summit but my tuner said don't waste your time. The SCT chip only got 4 HP and 8 ft-fb of torque. Where do you think you will make HP - in air flow through the motor or in maxing the A/F and spark curves? I do have Borla headers and a cold air intake. But stock throttle body. I would go with headers because getting the gasses out of the motor is the best thing for HP, next is getting air in but if you already have a low restriction cold air intake, you are already there. TB is not the restriction, it is the same size as the intake manifold opening - look at it.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Santee, CA
Well, if you already have the headers and cold air intake, the next steps would be a larger MAF, throttle body, and mandrel-bent exhaust pipe (if you didn't already get that along with your other Borla products ). Beyond that, I'd say you're going to have to crack open the motor and start looking at cams, roller-rockers, porting the heads, etc, etc, etc. It can get to the point when a SOHC & computer from the wrecking yard are going to look a lot more feasable. Why not start with a motor that makes 40 more horses stock, and then add the goodies? You could easily pour a couple grand into an OHV motor just to come up to that 200HP mark......
It's especially frusterating for me. I found out that the SOHC was introduced in 2000 (for the Ranger) about a week after I bought my '99
! -A real downer after finally finding a 2WD 4.0L with a stick in great condition....
It's especially frusterating for me. I found out that the SOHC was introduced in 2000 (for the Ranger) about a week after I bought my '99
! -A real downer after finally finding a 2WD 4.0L with a stick in great condition....
Last edited by rebturtle; Oct 7, 2005 at 12:45 AM.
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From: Phoenix
Well I did get a larger MAF, granatelli, and a flow master cat back system. Tuner still said stock MAF would have been fine. Well at least the motor has no excuse for not breathing well. But you are right, next step is a cam. I saw one on competition cam's web site that looked pretty good by the grind numbers. I have heard too many horror stories on the SOHC timing chain issues to want to try that route. I'd say a grand would be about right for a total rebuild. Parts and machining and I put it together. But that's a project for another day and it's not urgent yet, only important. When it gets urgent and important - motor fails and I have no other tranportation - then it gets rebuilt.