i posted a topic earlier about how i had hubs that would not turn from auto to free/lock. i finally got a chance to look at them today. after taking the internals out, i saw that all the parts were free moving. now all i need to replace is the outer casing. here are a few pictures of what i am talking about.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/twostrokerocket/DSCF2337.jpg notice the location of the dot imprinted on the cast iron piece

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/DSCF2334.jpg this is a picture of the hub, with no gears inside it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/DSCF2335.jpg i hope ford sells this part seperate from the whole packed hub with gears and springs, as my springs and everything are in new condition, but as you can see in the pictures, that someone messed with the center **** with pliers and broke part of the plastic off.


as you can see, the **** is halfway between full free and the dot on the cast iron part of the hub. the plastic **** inside the cast iron part WILL not turn. nor the **** or cast iron parts have writing on them, as my other 4wd's with the stick on the floor do. this has the ESOF, **** on the dash. i have heard that warn premium's are the way to go. however, since mine has the ESOF, the parts might be different inside, right? could someone give me a OEM ford part number for the hubs i pictured above? i am going to be in school tomorrow while my dad runs and gets the parts i need. or, i might want to upgrade if the parts from ford are overly expensive. i saw warn premiums for the dana 60 for about $250 a pair, but i do not know if they will work with my ESOF. does Warn make a special hub for the ESOF models, or will the standard 31-spline hubs for dana 60's work? i am totally new to this electrical/vaccuum locking hubs idea. please help me out.

 

i checked warn.com and saw i needed part number 38826. i searched ebay, and here is what i found. good deal too!

auction number= 8003859311.... it said that it is good for converting automatic hubs to manual- which is exactly what i want. can someone tell me if it will still work with my ESOF? (i would have to run the hubs in "lock" if i wanted to change into 4HI while moving, correct?)

 

I converted mine earlier this year. Very simple to do - I belive with stock wheels yoyu don't even have to remove the wheel. If I want 4wd, I hve to turn the hubs to lock, then use the ESOF on the dash to engage the 4wd. Works fine. I used the Warn regular hubs at a cost of about $175/pr. I have aftermarket wheel so I had to jack the truck and remove the wheels. Total time for both side was still under 45 mins. Mine is a 2000 F350. I didn't see what year yours was.

mike

 

awesome mike, thanks! so do you think those will work, i bet they are pretty similar to what you have. ill check to see if ebay has any regular warns out there, to save some money. its getting shorter, two cases of syn. tranny fluid is almost as bad as pulling up to the pump!

EDIT: just checked ebay- $167 for the regulars, and $187 for the premiums... i think ill go with the premiums for the $20 more, even though all i need is the regulars... like i said when i bought the truck... no i dont need a diesel


by the way mine is the gray 2002.

 

Here's a link to a step by step pictorial for the conversion.
http://community.webshots.com/album/85609276aVntVC

mike

 

nice job on the pictures. it looks like you used part of the old hub, is that true? if so, how did you get the aluminum to split off of the cast iron part? what i am looking at has all new parts

here it is-



you may have had new parts too, it just looked dirty in the pics.

 

I didn't take the pics - the link was given to me when I did mine last Dec.

Basically, there is a retaining ring that holds the old hub in place - remove that, remove the old hub and put the new hub in, Put in the new retaining ring, screw on the cap and you're done. I seem to recall twisting the new retaining ring to get it in easier. First side took about 20 mins, the second about 5 mins. Oh yeah - and block off the vacuum lines to the hubs or ya get a vacuum leak.

hope that helps,
mike

 

so, now i dont need the vaccuum pump for the hubs! cool. i guess ill trace the rubber hose back up to the upper shock location and then cap it off somehow. so the ESOF now works by engaging 4wd without any vaccuum?

 

I just pulled the lines off the wheel end and stuck a screw in them and taped over the nipples. I think that vacuum is applied for only 2 minutes when the ESOF switch is activated so it's not that bad a vacuum leak.

Yeah, now the ESOF doesn't use any vacuum - just the manual turn of the hubs and the solenoid that activates to engage the front diff. I noticed that the Warn hubs turn much easier and smoother than the stock Ford ones.

If your Warn installation directions are like mine, you can ignore the part about needing an "adapter or conversion" kit. They just pop right in.

have fun,
mike

 

thanks alot mike, i just bought me a set of the premiums. you deserve a gold coin