Engine alignment problem?
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From: CA
Engine alignment problem?
While re-installing the 302/C4 setup in my '73 F-100, I noticed that it required some force to get the tranny mount centered in the crossmember, in fact, I had to unbolt the crossmember for play, mount the mount and then rebolt the crossmember (which forced me to use different crossmember holes from original). The truck runs great, but today while changing oil, I noticed that the front of the engine angles ever so slightly toward the passenger side (and is a bit closer to that side as well), as opposed to being perfectly straight and centered in the frame. I am assuming that this could put more wear on the front u-joint, and could be a problem when installing headers.
Is there enough play in the motor/tranny mounts for the engine to get out of alignment? And what's the best approach to straighten it out? Loosen everything and wrestle with it? Thanks.
Is there enough play in the motor/tranny mounts for the engine to get out of alignment? And what's the best approach to straighten it out? Loosen everything and wrestle with it? Thanks.
Last edited by Polkat; Oct 1, 2005 at 09:52 PM.
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From: Springfield, OR
I ran into the same issue when I did my tranny swap, but what I found out was that it is designed that way on purpose. If the drivetrain is perfectly straight, the needle bearings in the u-joints dont rotate and and they wear out rapidly. A slight angle gives them the twist they want that rotates the needles in the grease and they last much longer. I had my 75 F 250 on the lift when I noticed it and said "Oh C__P, What stupid thing did I do", but like you say it runs good.
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From: CA
That's good to know. My concern was also with installing headers. The way the engine is sitting now there seems to be more clearance on the drivers side, while the passengers side is tight. Is yours the same way?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: East Flat Rock NC
All of these trucks are this way! While installing the passenger side headers I
allways jack up the motor on the passenger side and that header will fall
right in place. Sure makes it a lot easier! As for the driver side it just falls in
place!
allways jack up the motor on the passenger side and that header will fall
right in place. Sure makes it a lot easier! As for the driver side it just falls in
place!
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From: CA
fellro86 and prostreet, you are right, and I've been through that before. It makes sense considering the rear end pinion position. But this is a bit different. The FRONT end of my engine is cocked slightly toward the passenger side...front to back, as if it twisted a tad while being tightened down. I have not seen that in other trucks. The mount towers are not bent as far as I can see, so I think it sat just a tad crooked when I tightened down the mounts. Thinking about the universal joint idea, I doubt the engine is slightly cocked for that reason. Needle bearings that don't move much don't require heavy amounts of lube, as long as there is some lube, and there's a natural angle from the end of the tranny to the differential (or the bearing in a two piece shaft) anyway. Like I said, it runs good, but I think I'll try to reseat the engine to get this little tweak out and see what happens. Thanks guys.
Last edited by Polkat; Oct 2, 2005 at 01:13 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Marengo, Iowa
I would just loosen the mounts and see if you can get it to shift, the rubber part may have shifted, and when you had the trans out, it allowed it to shift a bit more, be worth a try anyway.
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From: Sussex
my 77 f250 is that way. I was surprised to see it when i had the drive train in with no body on top. I was concerned for while, but i looked at a few others and realized they are like that.
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From: Iowa
Are you sure you put your crossmember back in the right way? Since the drivetrain is supposed to sit slightly offset, the crossmember is asymmetrical; i.e. the hole in the middle isn't really centered. This can mess you up if you do it wrong.
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From: CA
benwantland,
Yea, this is what I suspected for a while, as this would cause the type of twisting I am talking about (it's not twisted as if revolved around the crank, but as if a giant reached straight down, grabbed the carb, and twisted clockwise). But the crossmember is correct. I did notice however that while reinstalling, that I couldn't get the passengers side crossmember bolt into the same hole as before (there are two frame holes available for the ends of this crossmember), so the crossmember is sitting a bit cocked. So I now suspect that there is a problem with the front mounts that caused this.
Yea, this is what I suspected for a while, as this would cause the type of twisting I am talking about (it's not twisted as if revolved around the crank, but as if a giant reached straight down, grabbed the carb, and twisted clockwise). But the crossmember is correct. I did notice however that while reinstalling, that I couldn't get the passengers side crossmember bolt into the same hole as before (there are two frame holes available for the ends of this crossmember), so the crossmember is sitting a bit cocked. So I now suspect that there is a problem with the front mounts that caused this.
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Loosen the two nuts on the motor mounts under the engine towers.
Place a wooden block on top of the floor jack.
Jack up engine from the bottom of the engines oil pan.
Recenter the engine motor mounts studs, where the the studs are center on equally on both sides of the engine towers.
Lower the floor jack and tighten the nuts on the engine motor mounts.
Place a wooden block on top of the floor jack.
Jack up engine from the bottom of the engines oil pan.
Recenter the engine motor mounts studs, where the the studs are center on equally on both sides of the engine towers.
Lower the floor jack and tighten the nuts on the engine motor mounts.