When you turn the key on to start, there is a wait light, this is when the glow plugs are heating, after it goes out you crank it, don't leave the key on ignition unless you're ready to start it or you'll wear out the glow plugs, very costly event.

 

?I wondered if I should leave the aux. battery turned off (the whole line of switches related to the dual/aux. battery)--all the time except when using the phone port, etc.? ?Do I switch the dual/auxiliary battery ON when starting the truck?
(I definitely do wait for the glow sticks/plugs to go out before cranking the truck--but don't know how to utilize the dual battery and their switches)--thanks again for any help

 

The batteries are wired together, not separate, so if you're using the power port in the dash, it's utilizing both at the same time, with the potential of running both down. It takes both batteries to start your truck, so they are not isolated from one another and can't be.

 

When should we turn on the row of switches related to the auxiliary battery and should they normally be kept in the 'off' position or in the 'on' position? How do they relate to the battery if it is not isolated?
Thanks so much for taking time to clarify this for me, I truly appreciate it.

 

Not sure, I don't know if they are for accessories, or for aid in starting a weak battery.

 

very useful....I understand its an old thread so no need to point that out. Just bought a 2005 f-250 crew cab lariat and need a location to install an isolated battery. plan on using an isolator that will allow aux battery to run down when motor is off while not draining the main battery. Under chasis is a perfect location. thanks

 

The post that will not die...

Welcome Fritz.

 

Thanks to the OP from another noob that had the same question.

 

Your welcome, just for the record, my setup is still running strong after all these years!

 

Thanks for a brilliant idea. I got the box yesterday. After doing an explore under the chassis starting to get discouraged about placing it there. I must of mis-read and thought the bracket was already under there for a bolt on solution. not much room to do a ground level welding job down there and using bolt on clamps and brackets would only get me support using the top hole...it would probally slide on bumps. I saw the cables and thought the box tilted open for servicing but it dosent. I'm either going to put the box in my bed mounted tool box or scrap the idea and just use the box on my 18X8.5 trailer. It would fit pretty easy between the beams on the forward tongue. If I can find a stock intake filter maybe I'll scap my k&N cold air setup and put the battery box in the fwd right engine compart corner. But anyway...at least now I have a very good battery box.

 

still inspired by the Op, was in a local hardware store today and found some metal sotck of the needed lenth with 4 holes of the optimal size in the right position. so 4 brackets, to bolted together for each side of the batter box and two bolts mounted with studs out ward, and the whole thing bolted right up. no drilling, cutting, welding, etc. no isolator for now. wired the pos to the started solenoid hot bolt. wired ground to a new bolt thru the frame. disconnected the original battery and the aux position battery started the truck right up....so everything is connected nice and tight. Sure beats having the battery in the bed mounted tool box. Thanks again Op for the idea to use an e-250 batter box. found a new one with the cover and wedge for 40 bucks.

 

Very interested on a battery box, where did you guys get them?

 

You should check out HiddenPower the under bed battery mount. It specially designed to be a no drill installation that attaches to the truck frame allowing you have extra power ready when you need it.


For more info and vehicle fits - HiddenPower - Under Vehicle Battery Mount