some tech help?stall and torque specs
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some tech help?stall and torque specs
i was curious about my truck this morning it was a little cool outside and when i started it up this morning it immeadiately stalled 3 times before it stayed running and was a little crappy running for 20 seconds or so,what could that be? im fixing the exhaust manifold leak tommoro and was wondering if anyone new the torque specs?
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From: Allen, Tx
Assuming you have a real man's truck; a 2003 F250 with a 5.4L/6-speed, the exhaust manifolds need 18 ft/lbs on all 8 bolts. If you have a V10, it's 17-20 ft/lbs on the right hand manifold and 18 ft/lbs on the left hand one. For either engine, 30-44 ft.lbs on the EGR tube on both ends (left hand manifold) if you have one. The exhaust pipe flanges are 30 ft/lbs on a 5.4L, both sides and on a V10, 27-34 ft/lbs for the right side, 30 ft/lbs for the left side. The stalling is most likely your IAC motor (Idle Air Control) going bad. Cleaning it has no effect or is a very short lasting fix so replacing it is the thing to do. It's only $54, dealer price.
Here's a re-cap:
5.4L V8
Left (driver side) manifold to cylinder head bolts : 18 ft/lbs
Right (passenger side) manifold to cylinder head bolts: 18 ft/lbs
EGR tubing (driver side only) nut: 30-44 ft/lbs
Exhaust pipe flange bolts: 30 ft/lbs
6.8L V10
Left (driver side) manifold to cylinder head bolts : 18 ft/lbs
Right (passenger side) manifold to cylinder head bolts: 17-20 ft/lbs
EGR tubing (driver side only) nut: 30-44 ft/lbs
Exhaust pipe flange bolts (driver side): 30 ft/lbs
Exhaust pipe flange bolts (passenger side): 27-34 ft/lbs
Here's a re-cap:
5.4L V8
Left (driver side) manifold to cylinder head bolts : 18 ft/lbs
Right (passenger side) manifold to cylinder head bolts: 18 ft/lbs
EGR tubing (driver side only) nut: 30-44 ft/lbs
Exhaust pipe flange bolts: 30 ft/lbs
6.8L V10
Left (driver side) manifold to cylinder head bolts : 18 ft/lbs
Right (passenger side) manifold to cylinder head bolts: 17-20 ft/lbs
EGR tubing (driver side only) nut: 30-44 ft/lbs
Exhaust pipe flange bolts (driver side): 30 ft/lbs
Exhaust pipe flange bolts (passenger side): 27-34 ft/lbs
Last edited by n578md; Sep 30, 2005 at 06:16 PM.
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thanks n578md,all the stores were out of service manuals for my truck.its a 2000 f250 reg cab sd with 5.4 and automatic.the idle air control you say,i wonder if it has to do with the truck always seems to rev up to high when i start it,i thought that although good to get oil pressure up fast that it would slowly hurt the motor reving up right away with cold pistons?
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From: Allen, Tx
Ah, a 2000 5.4L! Here are the specs for your year:
5.4L V8
Left (driver side) manifold to cylinder head bolts : 17-19 ft/lbs
Right (passenger side) manifold to cylinder head bolts: 17-19 ft/lbs
EGR tubing (driver side only) nut: 30-44 ft/lbs
Exhaust pipe flange bolts (both sides): 24-32 ft/lbs
My truck revs up to anywhere from 1500 rpm to 2000 rpm. The colder it is the higher the starting rpm. This is designed to get oil quickly into the oil galleries in the head and to the valve train. I don't think it hurts the cylinder walls any, but who knows. The 1999 F250 that I sold to a friend has always done it and it has a little over 200K however it's still running like new and using no oil. My 2003 does the same thing. If you have a sticking IAC, it may go higher than the computer wants it and it might stay there until it gets unstuck. Your IAC may have all kinds of crud on the screw-jack valve itself. Its always a sure fix to replace it and its cheap and easy. It is mounted to the rear of the throttle body angled towards the driver's side. Here's a pic of it on my truck:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=84013&width=0
5.4L V8
Left (driver side) manifold to cylinder head bolts : 17-19 ft/lbs
Right (passenger side) manifold to cylinder head bolts: 17-19 ft/lbs
EGR tubing (driver side only) nut: 30-44 ft/lbs
Exhaust pipe flange bolts (both sides): 24-32 ft/lbs
My truck revs up to anywhere from 1500 rpm to 2000 rpm. The colder it is the higher the starting rpm. This is designed to get oil quickly into the oil galleries in the head and to the valve train. I don't think it hurts the cylinder walls any, but who knows. The 1999 F250 that I sold to a friend has always done it and it has a little over 200K however it's still running like new and using no oil. My 2003 does the same thing. If you have a sticking IAC, it may go higher than the computer wants it and it might stay there until it gets unstuck. Your IAC may have all kinds of crud on the screw-jack valve itself. Its always a sure fix to replace it and its cheap and easy. It is mounted to the rear of the throttle body angled towards the driver's side. Here's a pic of it on my truck:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=84013&width=0
Last edited by n578md; Sep 30, 2005 at 06:40 PM.
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From: Allen, Tx
You may want to soak all the nuts involved with WD-40 or PB blaster the night before the big operation. You might still break some studs on the heads (or some might already be broken) so be prepared with some spares, an easy-out and an angle-drill and some good sharp drill bits. I usually take the wheel-well aprons off, it makes the whole thing that much easier.
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yea i bought new studs/nuts and gaskets,116 bucks what a rip off.one of the studs is broken off at the nut i dont know what or who caused that but ill find out tommoro.i have the torch too if i need to heat it up a little. it may be a mans truck but so far its been a mechanics friend!
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From: Allen, Tx
The studs closest to the firewall usually break on they own due to vibrations of the exhaust system. My father's F250HD with a 5.8L eats studs on a regular basis. 5.8L's are renown for that. The 5.4L is better but a few stud breakage is still the norm, it seems.
Just wait until you have to replace the cranshaft position sensor... A real beauty! You have to remove the passenger side apron and the AC compressor to get to it. The knock sensor is great too. You take off the throttle body and the intake manifold for that little gem... It sits right in the middle of the valley between cylinders 1 & 5 and 2 & 6. The cylinder head temperature sensor is also in the valley right on cylinder 5. Fortunately, these don't crap the bed very often.
Just wait until you have to replace the cranshaft position sensor... A real beauty! You have to remove the passenger side apron and the AC compressor to get to it. The knock sensor is great too. You take off the throttle body and the intake manifold for that little gem... It sits right in the middle of the valley between cylinders 1 & 5 and 2 & 6. The cylinder head temperature sensor is also in the valley right on cylinder 5. Fortunately, these don't crap the bed very often.
Last edited by n578md; Sep 30, 2005 at 08:10 PM.
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cant wait for that. anyway thanks for the help it went well,both bolts on the rear of the pass side were broke,maybe someone tried to tighten it or they expanded and poped off.had to vise grip one out but the bottom one was 2 hrs drilling and finnally it came loose with an easy out.i noticed this which may be helpfull to the next person,the new studs are redesigned,there shorter on the engine end and the same leght on the manifod side,and they beefed up the area where both ends of the thread meet,there as wide as the threads now as before they were the weak part of the bolt and thats where both were broken.the gasket was 2 piece as opposed to the old one that was 1 piece but it looked the same.and it is good to remove the tire well to get easy access.