Black Exhaust
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From: South Texas
Thanks for the info on the map testing. As for vacuum leaks everything seems ok except for one spot. I have noticed that after I turn the engine off there is a small hissing from the brake booster check valve. If I push on the valve the hissing stops. Looks like I need to track down a new grommet for the valve.
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From: SW Va
OK, now your getting somewhere!!!!
Those kinds of leaks can drive the MAP crazy & it'll drive the computer crazy!!!! lol
Be sure to give the EVAP system & it's rubber hoses a REAL close look too.
I found a leak in my 94 Taurus EVAP syatem, at a "T" connection under the radiator where it gets plenty warm.
A hose had dry rotted, cracked & was leaking gas & vapors at the "T" & of course it was leaking vacuum too, it was downstream from the MAF sensor, so it couldn't detect it & the leak was causing a lean mixture & light ping problem that I thought was bad gas!!!! LOL Replaced the hose, no more ping!!!!
So with the vintage of your ride, be plenty suspecous of any rubber vacuum lines, especially where they cross over, touch, rub against, pass through, or slip over "T" connections or splices. or come near heat sources that can cook, harden & dry out the rubber.
Keep at it, you'll nail it down, little by little!!!! lol
Just keep us posted on your results
Those kinds of leaks can drive the MAP crazy & it'll drive the computer crazy!!!! lol
Be sure to give the EVAP system & it's rubber hoses a REAL close look too.
I found a leak in my 94 Taurus EVAP syatem, at a "T" connection under the radiator where it gets plenty warm.
A hose had dry rotted, cracked & was leaking gas & vapors at the "T" & of course it was leaking vacuum too, it was downstream from the MAF sensor, so it couldn't detect it & the leak was causing a lean mixture & light ping problem that I thought was bad gas!!!! LOL Replaced the hose, no more ping!!!!
So with the vintage of your ride, be plenty suspecous of any rubber vacuum lines, especially where they cross over, touch, rub against, pass through, or slip over "T" connections or splices. or come near heat sources that can cook, harden & dry out the rubber.
Keep at it, you'll nail it down, little by little!!!! lol
Just keep us posted on your results
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From: suburban atlanta
PawPaw,
I have a DVOM that does ohms, volts, amps, tests transistors and capacitors, and measures Hz. It was about $30 at mcm electronics when I got it several years ago. It does not do RPM. I have used it to measure the freq on my MAP sensor when I had a problem. What it showed made sense, so I have no reason to doubt that it does indeed measure Hz. I beleive that what you say makes perfect sense because RPM measurements are basically pulse counts over time, just as hertz are pulses over time, that could be measured by the RPM setting on a tach-dwell gauge. I'm just not so good at the conversion math given the 4/6/8 cylinder pulse count per minute.
tom
I have a DVOM that does ohms, volts, amps, tests transistors and capacitors, and measures Hz. It was about $30 at mcm electronics when I got it several years ago. It does not do RPM. I have used it to measure the freq on my MAP sensor when I had a problem. What it showed made sense, so I have no reason to doubt that it does indeed measure Hz. I beleive that what you say makes perfect sense because RPM measurements are basically pulse counts over time, just as hertz are pulses over time, that could be measured by the RPM setting on a tach-dwell gauge. I'm just not so good at the conversion math given the 4/6/8 cylinder pulse count per minute.
tom
Last edited by tomw; Oct 9, 2005 at 11:57 AM. Reason: add more info
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From: South Texas
Getting the timing right has proven to be a problem so far. Three seperate times I have lined everything up just right and every time my truck wouldn't start. After cranking I checked the timing and when the cam was on the mark the crank was at 10 ATC each time. I suppose this is the belt slipping? I'm going to put a new belt in and see it this problem goes away.
Also, is it possible to move the camshaft sprocket like I can move the crank pulley, by turning the bolt on it? It would be a lot easier for me to put the crank on the timing mark and then adjust the cam, since its mark is on the engine rather than the timing cover. On the bright side I'm getting lots of practice fiddling with timing belts...
Also, is it possible to move the camshaft sprocket like I can move the crank pulley, by turning the bolt on it? It would be a lot easier for me to put the crank on the timing mark and then adjust the cam, since its mark is on the engine rather than the timing cover. On the bright side I'm getting lots of practice fiddling with timing belts...
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From: SW Va
While your in there doing the timing belt, why not get a jump on "Murphy's Law" & do the water pump too, if it hasn't been changed lately. BTW how long since the timing belt & tensioner were changed????
What proceedure are you using to crank the engine around & set #1 piston on TDC on the compression stroke, then set the cams position????
What proceedure are you using to crank the engine around & set #1 piston on TDC on the compression stroke, then set the cams position????
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From: South Texas
I put on a new water pump and timing belt when I put the new engine in, about 34k miles ago. The tensioner is original but still seems to hold tight.
What I have been doing is turning the crank until the cam is on its timing mark, taking the timing belt off, then adjusting the crank. I'm going clockwise as I'm supposed to. It would be easier to put the crank on its mark then adjust the cam, can I do it that way too?
What I have been doing is turning the crank until the cam is on its timing mark, taking the timing belt off, then adjusting the crank. I'm going clockwise as I'm supposed to. It would be easier to put the crank on its mark then adjust the cam, can I do it that way too?
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From: SW Va
Well you should turn the engine over, until the #1 piston is at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke.
Then adjust the camshaft to align with it's mark on the cover pointer, making sure the crankshaft hasn't moved when installing the belt.
I don't know if your model engine has a "auxiliary shaft sproket" or not. It resides just to the right & slightly above the crankshaft sproket, as you look at the engine. It's larger in diameter than the crankshaft sproket.
If you do, then you'll likely need the "Synchronizer Positioner Tool" Ford tool # T93P-12200-A or equivalent, to align it's notch in the synchronizer bowl.
So then you'll be trying to maintain alignnment of three things while installing the belt!!!! LOL
Let us know how you do.
Then adjust the camshaft to align with it's mark on the cover pointer, making sure the crankshaft hasn't moved when installing the belt.
I don't know if your model engine has a "auxiliary shaft sproket" or not. It resides just to the right & slightly above the crankshaft sproket, as you look at the engine. It's larger in diameter than the crankshaft sproket.
If you do, then you'll likely need the "Synchronizer Positioner Tool" Ford tool # T93P-12200-A or equivalent, to align it's notch in the synchronizer bowl.
So then you'll be trying to maintain alignnment of three things while installing the belt!!!! LOL
Let us know how you do.
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From: South Texas
Alright I finally got the timing squared away. I also replaced a faulty EGR position sensor and fixed a vacuum leak between the intake and brake booster.
My truck fired right up put the exhaust is still popping. It is much more noticeable at higher RPMs than at idle but it is usually there. I didn't drive it but I did let it idle a while and decided to pull the codes again. KOEO is fine, but I got some of the same codes during KOER that I've been getting: 41, 34, 13, 73. The computer had been reset before the test.
The 41 indicates that the oxygen sensor says the system is always lean. The 34 is an EGR problem that I was hoping would go away with the new position sensor but I guess not. The 13 seems to indicate an idle control problem. The 73 indicates a TP sensor problem or maybe I'm just not goosing it right. My TPS is only a couple months old. As for the goose test I'm opening up the throttle by hand from the engine when the tester tells me to. I do notice that there is a split second delay from when I open up the throttle to when the engine revs up. Where do I go from here?
My truck fired right up put the exhaust is still popping. It is much more noticeable at higher RPMs than at idle but it is usually there. I didn't drive it but I did let it idle a while and decided to pull the codes again. KOEO is fine, but I got some of the same codes during KOER that I've been getting: 41, 34, 13, 73. The computer had been reset before the test.
The 41 indicates that the oxygen sensor says the system is always lean. The 34 is an EGR problem that I was hoping would go away with the new position sensor but I guess not. The 13 seems to indicate an idle control problem. The 73 indicates a TP sensor problem or maybe I'm just not goosing it right. My TPS is only a couple months old. As for the goose test I'm opening up the throttle by hand from the engine when the tester tells me to. I do notice that there is a split second delay from when I open up the throttle to when the engine revs up. Where do I go from here?
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From: Left Coast of Florida
73 = insufficient TP movement, according to the guides I have.
I had a little trouble training myself how to run the codes, KOER. I don’t have a code reader, I am using a jumper wire and the CE light. Does your reader say anything about stepping on the brake pedal after the engine identification?
I have to step on and release the brake pedal, then wait for the CE light to flash for the WOT test. At first I was a little timid about mashing the pedal. Got a 73 and a lot of 74 codes. Test not done right. After I got a little more comfortable with stepping on the gas pedal things started to work better. Does your truck have a tachometer? I watched the TACH when stepping on the pedal to see about how long to hold it. It seams about a count of “one thousand one” as fast as I can say it does it for me. Since your using your fingers instead of your foot that might be the problem.
I had a little trouble training myself how to run the codes, KOER. I don’t have a code reader, I am using a jumper wire and the CE light. Does your reader say anything about stepping on the brake pedal after the engine identification?
I have to step on and release the brake pedal, then wait for the CE light to flash for the WOT test. At first I was a little timid about mashing the pedal. Got a 73 and a lot of 74 codes. Test not done right. After I got a little more comfortable with stepping on the gas pedal things started to work better. Does your truck have a tachometer? I watched the TACH when stepping on the pedal to see about how long to hold it. It seams about a count of “one thousand one” as fast as I can say it does it for me. Since your using your fingers instead of your foot that might be the problem.
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From: suburban atlanta
When I've done the WOT or goose test, I just jam it to the floor and let up. All it wants to see is the TPS value change, I think, and that happens even if the RPMs don't go thru the roof.
Can you describe the popping you are talking about a little more?
tom
Can you describe the popping you are talking about a little more?
tom
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From: SW Va
Are any of these codes coming at KOEO????
If so, begin with & work in succession, the lowest number code first, until you no longer get any KOEO codes, as Billy has said.
Then begin with & work the lowest number KOER code, in succession, until you no longer have any.
On the code 71, as Wally & Tom have suggested, maybe your still not doing the "goose" test just right, to the computers liking, OR you have something wrong in that circuit, like low, or no signal voltage to the TPS, or the new TPS is somehow faulty, with a open or rough place in it's resistance range of travel.
You need to, QUICKLY go to WOT & hold it there for say, two seconds, then, QUICKLY let off, so the throttle snaps shut.
Now that you believe the timing is correct, how do the vacuum gauge readings look????
If you drive it, pull & list any CM (Continuous Memory) codes.
If so, begin with & work in succession, the lowest number code first, until you no longer get any KOEO codes, as Billy has said.
Then begin with & work the lowest number KOER code, in succession, until you no longer have any.
On the code 71, as Wally & Tom have suggested, maybe your still not doing the "goose" test just right, to the computers liking, OR you have something wrong in that circuit, like low, or no signal voltage to the TPS, or the new TPS is somehow faulty, with a open or rough place in it's resistance range of travel.
You need to, QUICKLY go to WOT & hold it there for say, two seconds, then, QUICKLY let off, so the throttle snaps shut.
Now that you believe the timing is correct, how do the vacuum gauge readings look????
If you drive it, pull & list any CM (Continuous Memory) codes.
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From: South Texas
The "popping" sound is coming from the tailpipe. Every few seconds, or sometimes a few times a second, there will be a "pop" sound fairly loud come out of the tailpipe. It's a quick sound, like how it sounds when one is popping popcorn in the microwave. When RPMs are increased the popping gets faster and more numerous.
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From: suburban atlanta
Just get a big bag of Movie Time, and place it by the tailpipe. You'll be set for the drive-in should you be able to get there... heh.
Popping out the exhaust as described indicates that some sort of combustion is going on in the exhaust system. Or the catalytic converter is working a little too well. If the O2 is truly dead, the system will try to compensate for the "lean" condition by adding extra fuel. That may be the extra fuel burning in the exhaust, but the noise sounds a little too loud, unless you have ignition failure leaving a lot of unburnt mixture there to fire off, or an over exhuberant fuel pressure regulator. By the way, regulators can fail in 'spike' mode, where the pressure is fine, but spikes every now and then.
just a few thoughts
tom
Popping out the exhaust as described indicates that some sort of combustion is going on in the exhaust system. Or the catalytic converter is working a little too well. If the O2 is truly dead, the system will try to compensate for the "lean" condition by adding extra fuel. That may be the extra fuel burning in the exhaust, but the noise sounds a little too loud, unless you have ignition failure leaving a lot of unburnt mixture there to fire off, or an over exhuberant fuel pressure regulator. By the way, regulators can fail in 'spike' mode, where the pressure is fine, but spikes every now and then.
just a few thoughts
tom
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From: South Texas
There aren't any trouble codes during KOEO (just 11), only during KOER. The codes are 41, 34, 13, given in that order. From what is happening the problems are likely being caused by that 41 or always lean condition. I did notice a drop-off in fuel economy lately, of course the truck is no longer driveable in this condition, it's running very weak.
The fuel pressure regulator went bad a couple years ago, so that is fairly new but could still fail I suppose. Fuel pressure seems normal, but that doesn't really have anything to do with the regulator, does it?
I will go test the vacuum again later today to see if there is a change. Any ideas on what I should do to address the code 41? I was thinking I should pull the oxygen sensor and have a look at it. I think I read in the tech info thread that I can test it by heating it up.
The fuel pressure regulator went bad a couple years ago, so that is fairly new but could still fail I suppose. Fuel pressure seems normal, but that doesn't really have anything to do with the regulator, does it?
I will go test the vacuum again later today to see if there is a change. Any ideas on what I should do to address the code 41? I was thinking I should pull the oxygen sensor and have a look at it. I think I read in the tech info thread that I can test it by heating it up.
