"Royal Purple is an overpriced "boutique" oil IMO, and the only real benefit of synthetic over modern dino oils is in arctic temperatures. Since your profile states TX, that is hardly an issue."

LOL, I work in the oil and chemical industry. We don't spend extra money just for the better smell. We have to justify it and have done so with Royal Purple. There are two super-major oil companies using Royal Purple in their refineries and chemical plants and the largest drilling firm in the U.S. uses Royal Purple in all of its engines.

 

Royal Purple, now I remember whre I've heard that before, waaaaay back in 48, when I was just a runny nosed kid, I remember seeing ads for purple motor oil, in Post, Life, Colliers magazines, okst1 you sure you guys aren't just rebotteling an old idea here!!!!????? LOL
http://www.tocmp.com/pix/early-misc/...201954_jpg.htm

 

I used to work for Exxon Mobil in a lubricants mfg. plant. I also have changed my own oil for 25 yrs. I always use Texaco Havoline mineral based (conventional) oil to break in an engine, then switch to Mobil 1 synthetic. The engines have yet to give me an oil related problem, never have I had to replace an oil pump, and the engines all are super clean inside. Once I switch to Mobil 1, I change the oil every 10,000 miles, filter every 5,000. This helps to negate the cost of buying synthetic. I talked often with the lab manager and the tests always showed much less friction and wear with Mobil 1 than ANY conventional oil. You also should notice approx. a 5% increase in fuel mileage. Texaco Havoline does keep engines cleaner than any other conventional oil. There is no truth to the myth that synthetics cause problems if switched later in an engine's life. If a problem arises, it was probably already there, just not evident at the time of changing over.

 

tests always showed much less friction and wear


really huh? then why do synthetics turn in higher levels of iron? and mobil has a disturbing copper trend.

 

pawpaw,

I do remember my dad using that stuff. Today's Royal Purple has no corporate relationship with ConocoPhillips, the current owner of the "76" brand. I think Unocal let the trademark patent run out, so RP picked up the same marketing idea a couple of generations later.

Jim

 

pawpaw, I don't work for Royal Purple, I just buy the stuff. Interesting how old things become new again.

 

How right you are! Look at the text in that 1954 ad. "now available in the remarkable new 5-20 and 10-30 all weather grades"

Jim

 

Very good Jim, I wondered how long it would take before someone read the fine print!!!!! LOL

And to think of all the hand wringing thats been going on the past few years about 5W-20 & before that, about 5W-30, folks thinking it was something new, or that 20 weight would ruin an engine or that the 5W meant 5 weight oil!!!!
Heck some motor tech's still think it does!!!! LOL

Anyway, life is sorta like a big slow turning wheel, isn't it, what goes around, eventually comes around again!!!! LOL

Back before multi-vis lubes were available, 20W-20 was the crank case lube of choice, here in SW Va.

30 & 40 weight were for oil burners.

My Dad put over 100K on a 50 Plymouth flat head inline 6, using 20 weight Havoline. He had a 55-60 mph, 20 mile drive to work, with about a 3 mile warm up & cool down period at the beginning & end of the drive, just about ideal driving conditions for an engine.

The guys at the Texaco station where he parked, bought gas & had it serviced decided to tear the engine down one day, to see what it looked like inside & maybe grind the valves.

After pullng the head & oil pan, they decided to just put it back together again, as it didn't need any work & as they put it, "was clean as a pin inside"

They just couldn't believe it could have that many miles on it & not need some kind of service.

But as I said, his driving cycle was just about ideal, when you think about it.
Kept it blown out & the oil got good & hot, but it was warmed up & cooled down at the beginning & end of each drive cycle, so condensation, carbon, sludge & heat soak, never found conditions right for them to do their dastardly deeds!!!!.

 

Yes, much less friction and wear. Ever heard of a timken test? Look, I'm not here to argue, and I was not a lab tech, but I spent much time watching and listening to the lab guys and asking questions. I have no idea what you mean by "turning in" higher levels of iron or a "disturbing copper trend". Are you suggesting that used synthetics contain higher levels of iron and copper, therefore, it must be eating the engine? .I would like to see evidence, if that is the case. I only am stating what I've learned from personal experience, and a bunch of guys who did this for a living. By the way, I have put an average of 150,000-175,000 miles,(as high as 260,000 miles,on a Ford 302 , no less) on my vehicles, and as I said, have never replaced an oil pump or had an oil related problem. I will continue to use synthetics, (after break-in), and enjoy clean, smooth running engines, much longer oil change intervals, and a little better fuel mileage to boot. Just wanted to share my experience, not looking for a fight.

 

.I would like to see evidence, if that is the case

ok. then head on over to BITOG.

 

What is BITOG?

 

Bob is the oil guy

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

 

Ok, I just spent the last 40 minutes looking over BITOG and it's quite interesting. I assume I was supposed to be looking at used oil analysis, which is mostly what I did. What concerns me, is the lack of consistency when the subjects changed oil. Way too many variables, changing back and forth between brands,viscosities, and base oil. (mineral based to synthetic and synthetic to mineral based). If there is a specific area or post, that you think I should see, please let me know. Again, not being a smart guy, just trying to learn what I can. From what I saw, some content #'s were high, some were low. OCI intervals also seemed inconsistent. Thanks, you've shown me another place to get lost on the internet.

 

---------------------------------------------
I agree 101++% The benefits for using a quality synthetic oil such as Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Red Line and even TORCO are well documented. Certain dino oils are good too, but I feel the above mentioned synthetics are well worth the added cost. The high price of gasoline, for me, is why synthetics shine. An engine will deliver peak performance, power, and less emissions when hot, running 5w20, 5w30, 10w30, 0w30, 0w20 synthetic oil. Those facts are all over the internet. There is good reason why a new Corvette, Hemi SRT-8 Chrysler 300C, Roush Mustang, and numerous others, specify the 5 viscosities I just mentioned, namely Mobil 1, and not 15W40 diesel oil. The 15w40 is a good oil, no question, for DIESELS!

 

Roush - I just changed my V10 to Mobil One after 114K on dino oil (bought it with that many miles). Someone of the post suggested that the M1 will start to clean my engine and that I should change the filter at 1000 and 3000 miles. Concur?