thanks for the info on the first polio questions, i`ve been out of town on work, haven`t had time until now to work on my rig.i took all advice and started one by one to try them. fuel is not the issue. when truck dies i fly in that oven and roll the linkage, both toilet bowls flush.
anyway i picked up a remote starter as suggested(good investment anyway) and when the temp hits 195*, she dies. i pulled plug wire, no spark when cranked. next pulled coil wire , no spark, so the problem is prior to coil.heres the fun part. when i installed my pertronix module 2 years ago, it wouldnt run. i called the tech line, and they gave me a few ways to wire it , nothing. so they said some fords had resistor wires built in, and i would have to run a hot line from battery to a toggle switch on the dash, then to the pertronix module. i asked if this would fry it, they said no, 12v is 12v regardless. if it is coming from the ignition switch or straight from the battery wont hurt it as long as i dont leave the switch on when not running.
i wired it up and have had no problems for two years, now this gremlin.again i`ve put in a new pertronix module, coil, voltage regulator,and alternator.i`ve read a few of the other messages about factory modules going out, and pickups going bad. i`ve changed my equivilant. and the voltage regulator and coil get friggin hot, i`ve even moved the coil to the fenderwell to rule out overheating.
is it possible for the ignition switch itself to be the source, and if so why is it heat related. it runs great until 195*, and fires up after it cools down, same question for the toggle switch to the ignition module.thanks for the help.....big e

"theres nothing funnier than watching a simple man when he`s baffled"

 

this may seem silly but try mounting your coil somewhere not on the engine. we had this very same identacal problem on a 64 merc cyclone with a 289 it wouldn't die until it got warm it is possible that the coil is overheating. we checked the whole thing out numorous times and every time we checked it when warm the coil seemed weak. we changed the coil and moved it a little and it fixed itself. just another possibility.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Jul-02 AT 02:26 AM (EST)]Do you have an inline fuse in that wire running to the Pertronix? Try changing it out. Doest back of the switch feel warm?

dj

 

back of ignition switch and switch to pertronix are a bit warm, but not nuclear.
i`ve moved the coil, it`s sitting on the ferder now until i figure this out, it gets africa hot, but it`s new as well. the coil was my first check, and i swapped it out.
big e

 

My thoughts are that sometimes as things heat up they expand at different rates and sometimes lose/break contact. I have had it happen with a switch before. I am just trying to think of what I would check if it was mine.

dj

 

Get a cheap voltmeter, run a test lead out to where the 12v feed is at the ign. Hook the neg side to ground in the cab. Test drive it and watch for loss of the 12v. I have no knowledge of how the Pertronix works but a hot ign coil usually means to much voltage (thus more current and heat) at the primary side. A stock points system uses the resistence wire to drop the coil voltage to around 6 or 7 volts. A capacitor discharge system like an MSD uses the coil as a step up transformer. I am guessing that because of it's size; the Pertronix is using a transistor to saturate the coil primary like a point system would do. Let us know what you find.