Posi-rear failure
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Posi-rear failure
The first time I realy needed the limited slip/posi rearend, it completely failed. I tried stepping on the brake to make it kick in as I have read here in the past. I know this is a old question but what can I do to insure that it will work when I need it? This is the 1st problem with this truck in 30k miles. Thanks for your input.
gordy
gordy
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From: SE Michigan
The conditions you were under will help figure out why it appeared to fail. Limited slip units do not 100% lock the tires together, they have a certian break away point. This break away is there for street driving, if you do a hard turn you will not drag the outside tire like you do with a spool, or get the obnoxious clicking from most locker units. Limited slip units work great when the friction against both tires is equal or close to equal. The percentage difference allowed before the unit gives up and one legs is manufacture dependant. That is why you have read to lightly press on the break this adds friction to both the wheels and thus helps engage the unit.
A little more information would be helpful.
A little more information would be helpful.
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Triple8: Thanks for your input.
I was pulling 2 axle trailor, 4k lbs.. I had just pulled off my lawn onto a hard dirt alley behind the house making a left hand turn. As soon as both wheels hit the dirt the right side started to spin. I had to back up about 1 foot and go ahead again to complete the turn and pull the trailor onto the road.
I was pulling 2 axle trailor, 4k lbs.. I had just pulled off my lawn onto a hard dirt alley behind the house making a left hand turn. As soon as both wheels hit the dirt the right side started to spin. I had to back up about 1 foot and go ahead again to complete the turn and pull the trailor onto the road.
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I would like to go with ARB f/r eventually, but you know how that stuff goes. I think I should change my order a bit and save the money, but don't want Ford to mess anything up while they're building it. Could it fail like chevy's G80 and leave you stranded with no rearend or does it just convert to open diff?
Last edited by Customz; Sep 29, 2005 at 02:23 PM.
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Sloppy Posi, notable from Ford trying to please all the people that buy Fords to include those that have never pulled anything more than a gorcery cart! I cleaned my rear diferential out and added an extra capacity cover and filled it with Amsoil 75-140 HD gear oil without any friction modifier, stiffened the clutches just enough. pulls great in the sand, both tires pulling and on the hard deck just a little chirp but no shudder.
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From: Milky Way Galaxy
Could you imagine how many trucks would be taken back to the dealer if Ford put a hardier LS in. Every time someone not familiar with lockers turned a corner to hard and made it start clicking they'd be right back at the dealer. But, all in all, it's not that bad of an LS . . . as long as you understand it was designed more for mild slipping on loose surfaces, and not off-roading.
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I use the truck today to pull the cement trailor again. This time it was loaded with cement at about 8k, same problem. I got a little pissed and stomped on the gas and really hit the brakes hard on and off and was able to get moving again, 2 tires smoke'n. PL Quazar where did you get the high cap cover?
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Well pl quazarr your ls unit won't last very long with no friction modifier in it.
There are clutch disc's or friction plates within that require the additive,to keep the lubed.
Navy,do a search on Magtech.com.
If you own a 4x4 truck you need an ls unit or your truck is worthless in ice an snow
Rich
There are clutch disc's or friction plates within that require the additive,to keep the lubed.
Navy,do a search on Magtech.com.
If you own a 4x4 truck you need an ls unit or your truck is worthless in ice an snow
Rich
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From: Phenix City, AL
The problem with the Ford LS is it's a clutch pack setup. It breaks away at a very low weight (can't remember off hand). Most clutch setups are like this and after a while need to be replaced / repacked due to wear.
If you want LS and want a good one, get the Detroit TruTrac. It's all gear driven, no clutch, cones or what not and the biasing is adjsutable on it. Meaning you can set it up just like a set of gears and get the ratio L/R that you want. If you off-road, you set it up with a closer ratio, more street set it up with a higher ratio.
You don't need the expensive synthetics or friction modifiers with it either. Plus, no maintenance on it and it doesn't wear like a clutch pack setup.
The run around $500 plus install, but are worlds better than the OEM unit. Why didn't Ford put these in there in the first place? Yeah, I know saving a buck.
If you want LS and want a good one, get the Detroit TruTrac. It's all gear driven, no clutch, cones or what not and the biasing is adjsutable on it. Meaning you can set it up just like a set of gears and get the ratio L/R that you want. If you off-road, you set it up with a closer ratio, more street set it up with a higher ratio.
You don't need the expensive synthetics or friction modifiers with it either. Plus, no maintenance on it and it doesn't wear like a clutch pack setup.
The run around $500 plus install, but are worlds better than the OEM unit. Why didn't Ford put these in there in the first place? Yeah, I know saving a buck.
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Got the high cap rear dif from a search for Dana Differential covers, yourcovers.com, cost 175.00 for the plain one. Painted it black (5 heavy coats) with high temp black engine paint and buffed the vanes down to bare metal with scotch paint stripping wheel, saved 45.00 and it sure looks good. The differential gets really hot with heavy loads so you have to use engine paint or it will blister.