Hey, I've read the 2 page long thread about towing, just had some additional questions:

I already passed the written tests for my class A CDL. All I lack is the driving part. Does anyone here have any knowledge on this? If so, why should I expect to do (besides the obvious drive)? Did you have to do a pre-trip inspection of the truck/trailer before you go? BTW, it will be a Dually Deisel truck with a 48 foot trailer. Any advice would be appreciated.

FWIW, I will be hauling out of Diboll, TX going to miscellaneous places in Texas. (Amarillo, San Antonio, Dallas, Fort Worth, etc.)

Thanks!

 

Although all I have is a class B with air brakes, it's very similar. Mine is in KY by the way.

You have to do a pre trip inspection of the whole truck. The guy that was teaching me told me to act like you are showing the inspector your brand new truck and want to point everything out. Do just that. Point EVERYTHING out. IE- Frame, no cracks. Bolts, tight. Belts, tight. Slack Adjusters, no more than 1 inch of play. Etc.

Then you have to do a skills test. For me it included driving straight through some cones and then backing through the same cones. Driver's and passinger side parallel park, and an alley dock.

Then just doing the road driving test. Hopefully you'll have someone cool like I did.

Mike

 

Man, I hope I do too.

The skills and driving test I'm not too worried about.

The pre-trip crap is gonna suck...time to start studying more I guess. It's almost as if you have to be a mechanic to get a CDL! argh...

Thanks for the advice, and wish me luck!

 

I had to upgrade my license back when they started the CDL bs in the early 90's and when it came time to pretrip the truck the examiner said to only do the left side of the truck to save time, which I did. Then he marked off points because I didn't check the oil which was on the right side...I was confused and mad that he did this but he wouldn't change his mind even when I reminded him that he said to only check the left side and I took him out and showed him that the dipstick was on the right side of the engine. Jerk.

If your trailer is a flat bed so much the better, easier to see around and maneuver. I really don't remember the tasks that I had to perform but it was a piece of cake. I took all the written tests that I could and then had to go to a community college over 150 miles away on a Sunday to do the driving test. Normally I would have been grandfathered in but I had changed states a couple of times and Alabama didn't have a commercial class at the time so I had to start all over to get a CDL. I ended up with a CDL AM with PTX endorsements. The only thing that I couldn't drive was an articulated bus, only because they didn't have a test for that.

When doing the pre-trip tell the examiner what you are doing or looking at and why, place your hand on things.
You don't have to be a mechanic but it doesn't hurt. You do need to know what to look for and to determine if the truck can safely make the pending trip. Also, you need to determine if repairs can be made before the trip or the truck needs to be taken out of service.

If you really think about it, on a truck like yours the pretrip wouldn't be much more than what a normal person would do before going on a vacation trip, check the fluids, tires, wheels, lugs, lights, and ect. You shouldn't have to study very much for this I would say, as it's stuff that you should already know and do. You just have to convince the examiner that you know why it's required.

Good luck with the test.
Dorf

 

Pre trip is done from a safty standpoint
Check every lugnut (at least touch every lugnut)
Check tires
Check rims for cracks
Check all lights
Check suspension
Practice doing this in no more than 2 times around truck. If you keep doubling back it looks like you dont know what you are looking for. Most of the pretrip in common sense.

When you take the driving test, take the shortest flatbed you can find. Flat bed makes it easy to see over instead of around. Shortest makes it ALOT easier to parallel park.

And make sure there is nothing wrong with the truck you bring to do your test. Nothing worse than having to go back home, without take the test, because the brake lights don't work. ........DONT ASK

 

Does anyone know how to tell if a lugnut is loose by looking and not feeling?

 

True, just be as professional as possible. Remember to wear seatbelt, use signals and don't scare the poopie out of the instructor with your driving. When I did my driving test for my cdl some 15 yrs. ago. That instructor couldn't wait to get back lol.

 

Yeah, rust streaks.

Mike

 

Good answer.

 

Again, thanks for the advice. It sounds as if I'm over-exaggerating. It will probably be a couple weeks or so before I am capable of taking the driving part anyways, so that will give me time to prep.

Bordaine:

You can take a shorter flat bed than you will be working with? If that is so, that would be great! I'll see what DPS says on that anyways and thanks for the tip(s)!

I don't know why, it just seems like such a mountain to get over. But, it will be worth it when those paychecks start rollin' in!

 

My Class B was much easier than I thought it would be. Actually, it was friggin simple. Let us know how you do.

Mike

 

Man I must be old? I was grandfathered in, only took the writen part.

 

I thought you were old mech! It does say elder user under your name.

 

lol

we'll, I have 6 weeks to get a truck, get a 48' flatbed, and get my license! This is what the guy that is gonna hire me wants. (basically because he just got some new cargo trafficing out of a city by Dallas) and he wants to start heavy at that point with it.

Got my hopes up today -- found an 01 Dodge (yea, I know) Cummins, but the sucker had 285k miles on it. Anyways, I'm gonna go to the Ford dealership in a couple days...looking for a used 2000ish truck.

mech: man wish that was how it was now! I'd be certified!

 

The sooner you can get the truck and trailer the better. You will probably have to have them inspected for a DOT sticker and even though it's not a terrible inspection you would have time to correct deficient items before you have to hit the road.
I'm not too sure that I agree with your decision to buy a truck with a lot of miles on it, you may find it in the shop costing you money more than on the raod making you money. If you go that route try to buy a newer truck as soon as you can...it will save you money in the long run.
Most of the hotshotters buy a new truck every year while the trade in value is still fairly high. Also a new truck is less likely to break down on the road, and if you're under a load the company takes a dim view of break downs.

Anyway, Good luck!

Dorf