Turbo Timers.....
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
I asked the guys at DPPI this question, and he said they are primarily of most use to someone who tows alot and doesnt have time to cool down the truck.
After a hard drive, just idle it for a few min.
Cool thing to have...but you could live without. Get an intake instead.
After a hard drive, just idle it for a few min.
Cool thing to have...but you could live without. Get an intake instead.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Brighton, CO
i tow semi regularly and i like to drive hard, i have the B&D cool down timer. i like that one b/c it actually hooks to the pyrometer and turns off at a safe temp. not just a pre set time like most of the other timers.
usually in normal driving itll shut off in 20 to 45 sec. after a hard tow it can take a few min to get to temp. i have it set to go off at about 300*
usually in normal driving itll shut off in 20 to 45 sec. after a hard tow it can take a few min to get to temp. i have it set to go off at about 300*
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: San Jacinto, CA
Originally Posted by SBChero
i tow semi regularly and i like to drive hard, i have the B&D cool down timer. i like that one b/c it actually hooks to the pyrometer and turns off at a safe temp. not just a pre set time like most of the other timers.
usually in normal driving itll shut off in 20 to 45 sec. after a hard tow it can take a few min to get to temp. i have it set to go off at about 300*
usually in normal driving itll shut off in 20 to 45 sec. after a hard tow it can take a few min to get to temp. i have it set to go off at about 300*
Woops!!! guess I can't post a link to another non-sponsor site OK here's the article:
QUESTIONS: HOW ACCURATE IS AN EGT GAUGE? Can monitoring this gauge allow a device to automatically run my engine until my turbo is properly cooled?
ANSWER: Diesel Turbo Lifesaver works by timing out how long you engine runs to cool the turbo. Remember, time is time and it never varies. In contrast, the assumption that gauge / thermocouple systems are very accurate is totally incorrect. Please read the QUOTE from the manufacturer's installation instructions of a popular gauge, the Westach 2DC2-30SS:
QUOTE: "! IMPORTANT ! This system is factory calibrated at 75 deg. F. The indicator measures the temperature difference between the hot end (PROBE) and the pin terminals on the other end of the thermocouple (COLD JUNCTION).
For COLD JUNCTION temperature of 75 deg. the indicator will read the true temperature of the PROBE end of the thermocouple.
For COLD JUNCTION temperatures HIGHER than 75 deg. the indicator will read one deg. LOW for each deg. above 75 deg.
For COLD JUNCTION temperatures LOWER than 75 deg. the indicator will read one degree HIGH for each deg. below 75 deg.
This thermocouple "error" is a normal characteristic of self powered thermocouple systems. If possible, locate the thermocouple COLD JUNCTION connection to patch cable away from heat (or extreme cold) to minimize thermal "error".
When the COLD JUNCTION is 100 deg. and the system is calibrated at 75 deg. that means the COLD JUNCTION is 25 deg. high and the indicator will read 25 deg. low." END QUOTE
WHAT THIS MEANS TO YOU:For COLD JUNCTION temperature of 75 deg. the indicator will read the true temperature of the PROBE end of the thermocouple.
For COLD JUNCTION temperatures HIGHER than 75 deg. the indicator will read one deg. LOW for each deg. above 75 deg.
For COLD JUNCTION temperatures LOWER than 75 deg. the indicator will read one degree HIGH for each deg. below 75 deg.
This thermocouple "error" is a normal characteristic of self powered thermocouple systems. If possible, locate the thermocouple COLD JUNCTION connection to patch cable away from heat (or extreme cold) to minimize thermal "error".
When the COLD JUNCTION is 100 deg. and the system is calibrated at 75 deg. that means the COLD JUNCTION is 25 deg. high and the indicator will read 25 deg. low." END QUOTE
In examining the 3rd and 6th paragraphs of the quote, one can readily see the following scenario happening:
Underhood temperatures can easily reach 225 deg. F. or more when the vehicle is working. For this examination, we will use 225 deg. as the underhood temperature. Thermocouple's COLD JUNCTION is 150 deg. higher than calibration temperature of 75 deg. Therefore gauge reading is 150 deg LOW! Safe turbo shut off temperature is between 250 and 300 deg. F. The vehicle has a device installed in it that monitors the gauge and is set to shut off at 275 deg. Engine shuts off. Is the turbo safe? NO WAY! The "error" in the pyrometer has allowed the engine to shut off when the turbo is at 425 degrees!
Why buy such a system to cool your turbo when it shuts it off hot? All it is giving you is a FALSE sense of security. There is absolutely NO WAY you can compensate for this thermal "error" because the error is NEVER constant! To make matters worse, the gauge reads both HIGH or LOW depending on if you are colder or hotter than calibration temperature! It does not matter if you have a digital or analog (needle type) gauge, it is clear from the above quote that gauge is only giving you an approximate reading of temperature. Therefore, ANY device that attempts to monitor the temperature of the turbo to determine engine shut off time is ineffective by design.
Last edited by y2kexc; Sep 29, 2005 at 04:30 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
So going from that information you should never run your pyro over 1100 degrees to keep the EGT's safe.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
From: lost angels
what about shut down time i always leave mine on for a couple of minutes whaen i drive for a long timewhats the a safe shut down time then
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Brighton, CO
y2kexc, not that what you posted isn’t correct, (it might be) but let me take a guess here and assume that you got this from a site that is trying to sell a cool down timer (a times one rather than a temp one) ??
a coincidence? maybe, but id like to do more research before i believe things i read on teh interweb.
a coincidence? maybe, but id like to do more research before i believe things i read on teh interweb.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: San Jacinto, CA
Originally Posted by SBChero
y2kexc, not that what you posted isn’t correct, (it might be) but let me take a guess here and assume that you got this from a site that is trying to sell a cool down timer (a times one rather than a temp one) ??
a coincidence? maybe, but id like to do more research before i believe things i read on teh interweb.
a coincidence? maybe, but id like to do more research before i believe things i read on teh interweb.
I don't have one, but was thinking about purchasing some kinda cool-down timer.
I was just researching and ran across this. I always try to get as much information about these add-on as I can before I spend my hard earned money.
If you find any information that shoots the information I posted down I would be pleased if you shared.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
A thermocouple is a temperature sensor based on the principle that a voltage is produced when two dissimilar metals are joined. The voltage generated at the junction where the temperature sample is to be taken is called the hot junction. And, since the two dissimilar metals must be run back to the measuring device, the junction formed at the measuring device is called the cold junction.
The standard reference temperature for the cold junction is 32*F but, as noted in previous posts, it can be calibrated at other temperature, 75*F, I suppose would be another preferred temperature.
The measuring device in our trucks would be the pyrometer, usually mounted in the cab. And that’s where the cold junction would be – in the cab.
The iron and constantan wires in our thermocouples, if you will look the wires on the meter end to see (they both kinda look like silver, not copper) you will realize where the cold junction is.
For more than you really want to know about thermocouples see:
http://www.nphheaters.com/technical/thermo_letter.htm
The standard reference temperature for the cold junction is 32*F but, as noted in previous posts, it can be calibrated at other temperature, 75*F, I suppose would be another preferred temperature.
The measuring device in our trucks would be the pyrometer, usually mounted in the cab. And that’s where the cold junction would be – in the cab.
The iron and constantan wires in our thermocouples, if you will look the wires on the meter end to see (they both kinda look like silver, not copper) you will realize where the cold junction is.
For more than you really want to know about thermocouples see:
http://www.nphheaters.com/technical/thermo_letter.htm
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Littleton, Colorado
My remote start has a cool down feature that is easily set from 1-5 min. or the programmed run time for the remote start.
The main benefit that I get from a cool down feature is for the transmission.
I live in Denver, and I do a lot of work up in the mountains. I tow every day at a minimum of 5K lbs. If you run in a lower gear your egt's stay lower but tranny temps rise sharply. If run in higher gear vise versa.
Since I could rebuild tranny for $3000 + or -, and the engine for $11,000 + or -, I choose to be a little harder on the transmission. The timer for me is a better way to go because it takes far longer for the tranny to cool down than the turbo. For others, the turbo temp. may be better.
Just a different perspective,
Austin
The main benefit that I get from a cool down feature is for the transmission.
I live in Denver, and I do a lot of work up in the mountains. I tow every day at a minimum of 5K lbs. If you run in a lower gear your egt's stay lower but tranny temps rise sharply. If run in higher gear vise versa.
Since I could rebuild tranny for $3000 + or -, and the engine for $11,000 + or -, I choose to be a little harder on the transmission. The timer for me is a better way to go because it takes far longer for the tranny to cool down than the turbo. For others, the turbo temp. may be better.
Just a different perspective,
Austin
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: San Jacinto, CA
[QUOTE=AustinS]My remote start has a cool down feature that is easily set from 1-5 min. or the programmed run time for the remote start.
Where did you find a remote start for the Diesel. I've been thinking about getting one. Can you give me direction ????
Where did you find a remote start for the Diesel. I've been thinking about getting one. Can you give me direction ????
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Littleton, Colorado
Where did you find a remote start for the Diesel. I've been thinking about getting one. Can you give me direction ????[/QUOTE]
There are actually several mfg's that make them. I chose the Crimestopper RS900VI and I couldn't be happier. It has the cool down feature and also two ways to go for the diesel. You can tap off the wait to start light, or go the way I did which is a preset delay before cranking. I have had high dollar two way transmitter models before, and they did no better than this one which I got off eBay for $50 2yrs ago. It also has a starter disable feature which I like. If you have 2 cars you would like to do a remote start on, the remotes with this unit can do that also. I wired mine to do remote window up and downs.
The only drawback I see with any aftermarket I've had is that the key fobs are never as durable as the factory ones.
Just go to eBay and search for Crimestopper Remote Start and you'll find a ton of them. You can search just remote start and look at all the different brands too, as there might be something else that better suits you.
Good luck,
Austin
There are actually several mfg's that make them. I chose the Crimestopper RS900VI and I couldn't be happier. It has the cool down feature and also two ways to go for the diesel. You can tap off the wait to start light, or go the way I did which is a preset delay before cranking. I have had high dollar two way transmitter models before, and they did no better than this one which I got off eBay for $50 2yrs ago. It also has a starter disable feature which I like. If you have 2 cars you would like to do a remote start on, the remotes with this unit can do that also. I wired mine to do remote window up and downs.
The only drawback I see with any aftermarket I've had is that the key fobs are never as durable as the factory ones.
Just go to eBay and search for Crimestopper Remote Start and you'll find a ton of them. You can search just remote start and look at all the different brands too, as there might be something else that better suits you.
Good luck,
Austin