Ok, got it all sealed up, leaks nothing, except the PS is bleeding a little from the gearbox. I have positively identified the leak, but I can't seem to find anyone who carries replacement gearboxes. Does anybody know anything about replacing these things, are they rebuildable, where can I get them, the kits or the rebuild kit, and how much do they cost? Thanks for the wisdom -TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

They're down right now but when they come back on-line you can find out the seals you need and find a dealer that sells them.

[link:www.federalmogul.com/|This Way To Bearings & Seals]


[font color=red]Dennis

FTE Adminstration
[/font]

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/canada_flag_animated.gif

[link:www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/Mil1ion.html|My Website,"North Of The 49th"]

[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|Club FTE]
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/Minimorleytruck.JPG
[font color=blue]78 F-150 429CJ,Silver,Explorer Pkg.
[/font]

 

We just got a whole new gearbox because ours was leaking, it was 159.00$ at Shucks Auto Store. They had 2 in stock in our town, and said they can always order more.

Amberlyn

 

torqueking do you have a napa store or a carquest close. i replaced my ps box 2 weeks ago and both stores had them in stock. 159.00 and 179.00 for the carquest unit.

 

hey Teschwab, was it easy to change that beast? I mean, how involved is the removal process, and are there any special tools necessary? I could get it from NAPA, but I'm actually stuck at Clemson for the next few weeks, taking Engineering Fliud Mechanics this summer, and I have minimal tools with me at the time. I go home every weekend, so I should probably save the job for when I'm home with my fully stocked garage on Saturday. I'm just trying to pick your brain for some wisdom before I jump in and break something! Thanks for the advice, Dennis, and Amberlyn too. -TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jul-02 AT 09:31 PM (EST)]

 

My husband just changed our gearbox this week, and it only took him about 30 minutes. Just a couple bolts, and some awkward manuvering. He said getting it back in was harder, as it is a very heavy part.
Amberlyn

 

no real problem 3 bolts that pass thru the drivers side frame rail. one large nut on the pitman arm 1 1/8 i think. the two power steering soft lines. i pulled mine up thru the top past the exhaust manifold. i would suggest you recruit an additional pair of hands for the reinstall. the box is fairly heavy and the second set of hands really comes in handy getting the first bolt thru the frame rail. pick up 2 qts of power steering fluid and with the front end of your hot rod resting on jack stands fill the pump and start the beast and turn the wheels to the far right and then left and check the fluid level. top off the pump. i found the p/s lines very tight and some what difficult to break loose. you will be really surprised at how well the truck will drive. my 78 f100 has 172000 miles on it and was a bear to drive on the interstate. one thing i would check while under the beast is the steering rack and the grease fittings on the top and bottom on the king pins. the top one is often forgotten and receives very little grease. no special tools with the exception of the method that you prefer to use to seperate the pitman arm from the steering box. have fun.

 

So I'm just gonna reconnect the pitman arm without worrying about it falling out of alignment? The truck still turn great, It makes a little noise sometimes when I cut the wheel hard, but it bleeds pretty steadily. I really appreciate the advice, that's encouraging that it won't be unnecessarily difficult to swap it, I'm just wondering if there's any sort of alignemt integrity that I need to maintain. When you say seperate the Pitman arm, is this gonna be accomplishable with hand tools? I'm running Type F tranny fluid in there now, it's a little more viscous than regular PS fluid so it slows down the leak. If that pump runs dry one more time before I get this thing fixed, I'm gonna run a bottle of 80w-90 gear oil through it, and watch it try to bleed that stuff off! Thanks again for the wisdom Teschwab, and I just checked, and I never even realized that I forgot to click the "+" when I rated you, fortunately Ron hooked you up the next time around, but just for the record, I think you're a +! Thanks for your words too, Amberlyn, it was definately encouraging to hear that it's not another knucklebuster like intsalling headers, or removing a starter when you've got your headers on, or taking headers out when you've removed your cylinder heads, or actually doing anything to headers now that I think about it.

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

This wont help you now (you are to far into it) but maybe someone else will see it.

Next time you take the pitman arm off, use a grease pencil and draw a line on the shaft at the teeth. that way you know the correct way to install it back the exact way it was.

hey thanks for the feedback by the way....

 

to center the box you can remove the coupler from the old box and attach it to the new box. you will find that the splines are keyed and you can't really miss the mark a bunch. to center the box with the coupler attached turn the gear all the way to the right and count the number of turns to the far left and then divide that number in half. then turn the shaft back to the right the correct amount of turns. example starting from the far right position you rotate the shaft 4 complete turns to the left than center would be 2 complete turns back to the right. the 4 is for example only. i would pick up the correct puller vs a pickle fork type tool.

 

You will need a pitman arm puller. You might spray some PB Blaster on the pitman arm a few days before you want to talk it off. Put the puller on and tighten it but don't break it. If it is not coming free, Start tapping the pitman arm where the shaft is. Just light to moderate tap,tap,tap. Check the tension on the puller once in awhile. Sooner or later it will come loose.

 

Thanks guys, I'll probably save this job for the weekend, but I will ideed let everyone know how it went when I do get it done. -TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing