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was wondering for my 360 to 390 build, what are the pro's of using arp hardware as opposed to stock?? is it mainly for race applications/looks??? thanks!
ARP bolts are much stronger than stock and wont "stretch" like stock ones will. After awhile stock bolts become weak after being torqued. You cant go wrong with the ARP, for the price its definitly worth it, your motor will also be able to take more abuse and hold together longer.
ok good and while i'm at it i'll turn this into a little q&a but what exactly are hypereutectic pistons and if my motor is stock what am i most likely using?? thanks
i have done both . i have used the stock with no ill effects an the arp bolts. granted the arp are stronger. also while we are talking arp look into their oil pump drive shaft. that is a must. the stock one can twist.
If you dont plan on pushing your motor the stock Bolts should be just fine..But if you plan on sticking you toe's in the carb more oeften than not? ARP is the only way to go for cheap insurance... and the Pistons in your stock motor are Plain Jane Cast..I believe the Hypers have a silicon blend in them..Making that not so critical to expantion rate as plain cast and will hold a tighter seal to the cylinder..I dont know that much about them ..as I prefer Forged myself..But you pay alot more.. JMO!!
If you dont plan on pushing your motor the stock Bolts should be just fine..But if you plan on sticking you toe's in the carb more oeften than not? ARP is the only way to go for cheap insurance... and the Pistons in your stock motor are Plain Jane Cast..I believe the Hypers have a silicon blend in them..Making that not so critical to exspantion rate as plain cast and will hold a tighter seal to the cylinder..I dont know that much about them ..as I prefer Forged myself..But you pay alot more.. JMO!!
Hypereutectic pistons have a high silicon(~15% to 17%) content which (according to Speed-Pro) has improved thermal characteristics, greater hardness, and increased resistance to scuffing for tighter cylinder to bore clearances. They are significantly stronger than cast pistons. They are an excellent choice for even bracket racing type applications.
A stock motor will be fine with stock bolts and cast pistons. The arp rods bolts should make will feel better if you were to use them. I also like the arp oil pump shaft and I am currently using one. Summit has them for 16.88?
Use the ARP bolts on every build. Cheap insurance. The stock bolts are 30+ years old, who knows how many times they've been torqued before? How many miles have they got? Who knows. Use the ARP bolts. It'd be a shame to have your new motor blow up because it broke a rod bolt.
well really the only arp bolts i should invest in are the main and head bolts correct?? not too worried bout my water pump or dizzy hold down. thanks for the return on the hyper pistons too! also i'm not sure what a good max rpm for a stock 390 is but i can't imagine goin over 4500.
I would use the rod bolts also, you don't want to use old bolts in your reconditioned rods. The ARP rod bolts are about the same $$ as stock replacements, so why not???
The stock cam and valvetrain(springs) likely won't rev much higher than 4500 to 5000 RPM.
i try never ot go over 4k after that it sounds like it may blow. thats a lot of iron in there to get moving to 4500 rpm. freeway i only see 1,200 rpm only 300 more than idle.
Typically main and head bolts on FE's dont go bad, you'll definately want their rod bolts though. If a head bolt stretches, you blow a head gasket. If a rod bolt goes, you blow your motor.
Rod bolts definately, main and head bolts if you've got the money.
On the RPM's, if the motor is stock you wont gain any power over 4500rpm anyway. It'd probably be safe to go 5500rpm, but no advantage to going that high.
Last edited by rusty70f100; Sep 27, 2005 at 09:31 PM.
3.00 open rear and stock size tires. p235/75/15. doing about 55ish going past that i see about 1500 rpm at 65 and 1,900 at 70. to many damn people here to go faster than 70. sometimes it is a dead crawl for a hour on some freeways.
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