390 wont start! No fire!
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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390 wont start! No fire!
Hi!
You guys are the best, thanks for always being around to bail me out.
No I feel kinda dumb asking this, but I thought it was about time to change my plugs, cap and rotor. I changed the plugs, un-did the wires and the rotor one at a time, and now the dang truck wont start. I have fuell and air but no fire!! I tried a new coil, and have verified the fireing order of the wires several times. I may be one off at the cap, but I am not sure because I did the cap first, and the truck started after that.
Please help, I know this is probabilly really dumb. Also, shouldnt there be anything hooked up to the negative side of the coil? or is that for my non existant tach? And also, can it be a bad capacitor on top of the coil??
Thanks!
JA
You guys are the best, thanks for always being around to bail me out.
No I feel kinda dumb asking this, but I thought it was about time to change my plugs, cap and rotor. I changed the plugs, un-did the wires and the rotor one at a time, and now the dang truck wont start. I have fuell and air but no fire!! I tried a new coil, and have verified the fireing order of the wires several times. I may be one off at the cap, but I am not sure because I did the cap first, and the truck started after that.
Please help, I know this is probabilly really dumb. Also, shouldnt there be anything hooked up to the negative side of the coil? or is that for my non existant tach? And also, can it be a bad capacitor on top of the coil??
Thanks!
JA
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Junior User
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I checked my cap. put the wires on in the right order, ( right order, one off) still no start, so I put a test lite on the coil, and it lit up so I know it is getting at least some voltage, I wonder what the heck happoned while replacing sparkplugs that wrecked the ability to fire off the motor??
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Colville, Washington
Johnny, you need to find the small wire coming from the points thru the distributor housing and reconnect it to the coil negative post. The coil will have power even if the points wire is unhooked.
Lead Driver
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From: Central Oregon
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You know, you guys were on the same wavelegnth as me, curently there are no wires going to the - side of the coil, according to the schematics (sp?) I have seen the green wire off of the regulator is supposed to be in contact with the - coil post. I have put a test lite on the + coil side and had a steady lite, I am going to get a ohmmeter, test that mystery green wire, and if it is a ground, I will hook it up, and hopefully drive off!
Thanks!
JA
Thanks!
JA
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The wire comming from the points inside the distributor is suspossed to be connected to the negative (-) terminal on the coil. The points open and close supplying an intermittant ground which acts to collapse the primary field in your coil and cause the high voltage spark to be induced in the secondary of the coil.
If you read it with an ohm meter and it reads open it's that the points are open because they are sitting on the lobe of the little cam in the distributor.
If you read it with an ohm meter and it reads open it's that the points are open because they are sitting on the lobe of the little cam in the distributor.
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You guys are really helping me out, i know Ill have this truck on the road soon, and will be on to other projects like... New brake clipers, floor pans, brake lines... etc. I owe fte a few pictures of mongo ( My truck)
One thing that I am still not getting (D'oh)@ me)), is that I dont have points, Im a duraspark II guy. Thanks for your help, as a team we at fte keep these trucks on the road!
One thing that I am still not getting (D'oh)@ me)), is that I dont have points, Im a duraspark II guy. Thanks for your help, as a team we at fte keep these trucks on the road!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Then there must be a wire from your ignition control box that goes to the negative terminal on your coil. You mentioned a green wire comming from your regulator. Maby you mean your ignition control box which I think is on the firewall.
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Well, not too much time to wrench,
I havd a giant tree fall infornt of my house, I spent the whole day chopping it up
I need a chainsaw with a 60 inch blade to get the rest! LOL
Aniways I hooked up the green wire to the negative post and the truck actually fired a little, but when I hooked up that wire the truck didn't turn as easy, do I have a bad ground somewhere?? Is my brain box finally getting a real signal, enough to show that I fried it farting around earlier this week?? Will the jocker finally find the bat cave?? ( sorry, 10 hous work and still having a friggin tree in my front yard, getting loopy)
Again!, you guys are the best!
JA
I havd a giant tree fall infornt of my house, I spent the whole day chopping it up
I need a chainsaw with a 60 inch blade to get the rest! LOL
Aniways I hooked up the green wire to the negative post and the truck actually fired a little, but when I hooked up that wire the truck didn't turn as easy, do I have a bad ground somewhere?? Is my brain box finally getting a real signal, enough to show that I fried it farting around earlier this week?? Will the jocker finally find the bat cave?? ( sorry, 10 hous work and still having a friggin tree in my front yard, getting loopy)
Again!, you guys are the best!
JA
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Try retarding the timing a little - it sounds like the timing is too far advanced, and when you crank it, it's firing WAY before the piston gets near the top.
Anyway, turn the dizzy COUNTER clockwise a little bit, and keep doing it a little until it cranks like "normal" ... it should fire up at that point... are you pumping the gas at all?
Anyway, turn the dizzy COUNTER clockwise a little bit, and keep doing it a little until it cranks like "normal" ... it should fire up at that point... are you pumping the gas at all?