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I really like having my vehicles dead stock, usually to the point of keeping the factory radio. I really would like you guys opinions on the oncept of when it is OK to reengineer systems.
My aero had big brake problems related to rabs system, I put many hours into repair and finally gave up installing a regular adjustable proportioning valve and now I have very good brakes. There are numerous posts about people having sensor and computer problems with their automatic awd systems. At some point is it OK for these guys to simply install a dash switch and warning light to engage the awd manually.
I don't advocate installing a carburetor in place of fi but I wonder about some of the less than reliable and aging subsystems that are getting harder and more expensive to keep running.
I think that disconnecting the AWD module and putting in a switch to activate the T/C clutch is perfectly fine. However, if you are going to do it, I think a momentary switch is a better idea than an on/off switch, just so you don't forget to turn it off. Usually, when you really need to get out of a tough spot, it takes only a few seconds to do so, and a momentary switch ought to be sufficient. On the other hand, if you forget and left the clutch engage, it's bad news. If you are the more adventurous soul, a timed circuit is not hard to build. If you can time it to be on for 3-4 seconds then off by itself, then it'll be perfect.
Reengineering is a good thing . A couple projects come to mind having built a few street and strip rods a few years back . You take the basic 40's duce or pickup body style , a 60/70's subframe, a 60's small/big block , some chop and channel, a few high tech mods, an awesome pait job , and you are turning heads everywhere you go .
I really like having my vehicles dead stock, usually to the point of keeping the factory radio. I really would like you guys opinions on the oncept of when it is OK to reengineer systems.
My aero had big brake problems related to rabs system, I put many hours into repair and finally gave up installing a regular adjustable proportioning valve and now I have very good brakes.
Ken1mod
What model proportioning valve did you use as a replacement? Was there much in the way of re-plumbing required?
Also, reengineering the exhaust system on the 4.0 is a good idea. It is ok for the 3.0, but on the 4.0 the setup is identical, and that makes no sense for an engine that is 30% larger. It seems the exhaust system should get slightly larger, so doing so would probabaly increase HP, maybe improve economy, and also reduce under hood temperatures.
I used a wilwood proportioning valve adjustable from 100% to 47%. I plumbed it into the rear brake plumbing circuit, the one that goes to the rabs valve. I tried to remove the rabs valve but the lines were frozen and I didnt want to light my acetylene torch. It required a short piece of brake line from auto zone. valve is 39.00 on ebay, tubing 1.49 american. results:excellent, I run the valve at close to full reduction of pressure, no rear lock up, great brakes wet or dry. I suppose I could increase rear brake action if I were fully loaded, but I have not had to do that yet, there is a **** adjustment, slick.
I have a custom cat-back exhaust 3" inlet muffler with two 2" outlets with custom stainless steel pipes and exhaust tips like the Escalades. Great sound but don't really notice much performance increase.
i squeezed 31 mpg out of a 3.0 shorty.. but in oregon, where there are no emissions certification, a lot of illegal (in most other states) modifications were made.
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