alternator woes
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
93 ford ranger super cab, 4.0, 6cyl AC
"I just replaced my Alternator (followed the Ford Ranger Haynes Manual) and when I went to start it up, it took a bit to get going and now the battery light is on and it seems to chug a little..... before I replaced the alternator, the battery light never was on and now it is.. I checked all vacuum hoses and they're all tight. I don't have any meters to test. It seems I should take it somewere and have them check the battery, if I need a new battery I can buy one from them...
or anything else?
Thanks for the help"
"I just replaced my Alternator (followed the Ford Ranger Haynes Manual) and when I went to start it up, it took a bit to get going and now the battery light is on and it seems to chug a little..... before I replaced the alternator, the battery light never was on and now it is.. I checked all vacuum hoses and they're all tight. I don't have any meters to test. It seems I should take it somewere and have them check the battery, if I need a new battery I can buy one from them...
or anything else?
Thanks for the help"
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Just as a note when an alt goes bad the battery looses its charge until its dead. At that point the battery is prob still good you just need to charge it up for a few hours. After that you start the car and you are fine. Way too many batteries get changed for no reason. If after charging the battery if it has a low charge then you need a new one but only then...I rebuild alternators, they fail all the time rarely is the problem the battery. A battery will last up to 8 years if you never killed it. Bringing it down low does damage.
On the ranger sounds like you either have a bad alt or you don't have a good connection at the alt check all wires.
Dick
On the ranger sounds like you either have a bad alt or you don't have a good connection at the alt check all wires.
Dick
Last edited by 99f350sd; Nov 5, 2005 at 09:52 PM.
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Thanks for the info Dick,
I found out the guestamated that the new alt was bad so I took it back (pepboys) and bought a new battery. Then went to (AutoZoen) for a new one which I had them test it to see if it was good, it passed...
When I reinstalled everything, my truck had a hard time getting started but after about 20 min of running it seems to be fine but the Battery light is still on, Autozone tested the batt and alt and I'm only getting 12.5 when running and 12.0 when there is a load (AC running). He said it might be bad wiring . The Battery meter in my dash is about 1/4 below half. Since I owned the truck (8 years ) it's always been there and I thouhgt it was normal.
What do you think my next step should be? try to replace the harness?
Thanks
T
I found out the guestamated that the new alt was bad so I took it back (pepboys) and bought a new battery. Then went to (AutoZoen) for a new one which I had them test it to see if it was good, it passed...
When I reinstalled everything, my truck had a hard time getting started but after about 20 min of running it seems to be fine but the Battery light is still on, Autozone tested the batt and alt and I'm only getting 12.5 when running and 12.0 when there is a load (AC running). He said it might be bad wiring . The Battery meter in my dash is about 1/4 below half. Since I owned the truck (8 years ) it's always been there and I thouhgt it was normal.
What do you think my next step should be? try to replace the harness?
Thanks
T
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
If it's reading 12.5V when running and 12V with accessories on, that's just your battery volatge. Your alternator is not charging at all. If you have a new alternator, and it's still doing this, I would say the fusible link between the alternator and the battery is melted. Check for continuity between your alternator output and battery. That fusible link is replaceable. You don't need to replace the entire harness.
But before you go further, are all the wires back on the alternator? There is one single wire connector that's supposed to go to the stator on the alternator, and people sometimes forget to plug it in. There should be three connectors: 1) single wire to the stator 2) Single wire to the alternator output - a really big wire 3) A 3-wire connector to the voltage regulator.
Disconnect the ground terminal on the battery and the alternator output wire. Measure resistance between that wire and the POSITIVE terminal at the battery. It should be continuous. If it reads high, there is your problem.
But before you go further, are all the wires back on the alternator? There is one single wire connector that's supposed to go to the stator on the alternator, and people sometimes forget to plug it in. There should be three connectors: 1) single wire to the stator 2) Single wire to the alternator output - a really big wire 3) A 3-wire connector to the voltage regulator.
Disconnect the ground terminal on the battery and the alternator output wire. Measure resistance between that wire and the POSITIVE terminal at the battery. It should be continuous. If it reads high, there is your problem.
Last edited by copper_90680; Nov 7, 2005 at 04:03 PM.
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
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Yes I made sure that all 3 wired were connected
I'm not sure what you mean by the fusible link, the wire that's connected from the alt to the possitve battery connector?
I've been driving around today for about 3 hours and everything was fine, but since about a half hour ago driving home it seems that it's starting to chug or hesitate a little would this still be from this problem that we're tring to solve?
Thanks
T
I'm not sure what you mean by the fusible link, the wire that's connected from the alt to the possitve battery connector?
I've been driving around today for about 3 hours and everything was fine, but since about a half hour ago driving home it seems that it's starting to chug or hesitate a little would this still be from this problem that we're tring to solve?
Thanks
T
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
A fusible link is part of the wire that acts as a fuse. if the fuse blows, you won't have a connection between your alternator and the battery, and your battery won't last too long. Just do that one simple check at least to eliminate/comfirm that part of the problem.
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
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ok I will check it.
I just opened up the Power Junction fuse box in the engine(right side) and found out that slot 16 was for the alternator 15 amp So I looked at the fuse and it was blown I replaced it. Now the voltage meter in my dash panel is half way where it should be straight in the middle between 8-18 and the battery light went out! So I took it for a ride but it still was chugging.. Do you think this solved anything? other than fixing the light?
Thanks Copper
I just opened up the Power Junction fuse box in the engine(right side) and found out that slot 16 was for the alternator 15 amp So I looked at the fuse and it was blown I replaced it. Now the voltage meter in my dash panel is half way where it should be straight in the middle between 8-18 and the battery light went out! So I took it for a ride but it still was chugging.. Do you think this solved anything? other than fixing the light?
Thanks Copper
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Originally Posted by tictactone
I just opened up the Power Junction fuse box in the engine(right side) and found out that slot 16 was for the alternator 15 amp So I looked at the fuse and it was blown I replaced it. Now the voltage meter in my dash panel is half way where it should be straight in the middle between 8-18 and the battery light went out! So I took it for a ride but it still was chugging.. Do you think this solved anything? other than fixing the light?
Thanks Copper
Thanks Copper
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Hey Guy's
I had to take my truck in cause I only did what I knew and capable of (with your help) to solve the probelm of my truck.
They told me that I had two bad oxygen sensor valves, that's what was causing the chugging. Just a coincedense added on to the bad alternator.
So does $90 a piece and $60 to replace them sound fair?
Thanks to everyone who help me out on this
T
I had to take my truck in cause I only did what I knew and capable of (with your help) to solve the probelm of my truck.
They told me that I had two bad oxygen sensor valves, that's what was causing the chugging. Just a coincedense added on to the bad alternator.
So does $90 a piece and $60 to replace them sound fair?
Thanks to everyone who help me out on this
T
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Originally Posted by tictactone
Hey Guy's
I had to take my truck in cause I only did what I knew and capable of (with your help) to solve the probelm of my truck.
They told me that I had two bad oxygen sensor valves, that's what was causing the chugging. Just a coincedense added on to the bad alternator.
So does $90 a piece and $60 to replace them sound fair?
Thanks to everyone who help me out on this
T
I had to take my truck in cause I only did what I knew and capable of (with your help) to solve the probelm of my truck.
They told me that I had two bad oxygen sensor valves, that's what was causing the chugging. Just a coincedense added on to the bad alternator.
So does $90 a piece and $60 to replace them sound fair?
Thanks to everyone who help me out on this
T
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
At this point I need my truck and I feel that I can trust them he said when he puts them in and if they don't solve the problem, he'll take them out, put my old ones back in for no charge.
I'll post later to give the results
T
I'll post later to give the results
T