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OK Im planning on doing a brake upgrade on the cheap side If I can help it.. I found the basic disk mount kit.. But it seems I having no luck on what manual master will fit for a disk drum set up for my 60... What have you guys found that is as close to a bolt on as possable..
I'm not sure what will fit. I used a late 60's GM dual MC but had to elongate the holes a little bit. Measure your bolt hols and hit the wrecking yard or the local parts house. NAPA is usually pretty good about letting your peruse the parts books
Someone posted a link to a website on brakes, and I copied the info for myself. Somehow I did not copy the link. I worry that you will have a hard time finding a master cylinder with the same stroke as the stock one. I realize you can modify your brake rod to the lenght you need, but you do need to check the stroke.
MP brakes has a lot of info on their website. A disk disk MC will work fine for disk drum applications with the right residual valves. My panel had manual MC (new underfloor setup) with disk front brakes when I bought it, That was the second thing to go after the stock steering box! I felt like I needed both feet to stop and my wife found it downright scarey to drive. Power boosters are inexpensive even new, use one!
You can put on an electric vaccuum pump. I've driven plenty of manual drum/drum cars, but manual disks are a WHOLE nuther animal trust me. There are hydroboosters that run off the PS pump too.
Look Ax.. I not intrested in power brakes.. I dont want to mod the fire wall to fit the booster, And I know for other trucks that the booster gets in the way of the Cluch master.. And Im trying to save some money.. Im trying to keep it simple.. No under floor stuff. no power.. Just a simple change over to a more safer setup.. There nothing wrong with manual brakes.. And with Manual brakes you dont have the brake fade if the engine cuts out for some reason.. Manual brakes work the same with the engine off as they would with it running.. I know a lot of people like there power brakes.. And If I was lookng for power brakes .. than I would get power brakes.. I just want a more modern system thats safer on the mountains.. But thank you for your input..
I used to own a 82 chevy pickup with manual disk drum brakes. The truck needed 2 feet to stop it. It was scary. Disk brakes need more hyd pressure to work correctly. That is why a booster is needed. That is all Ax is trying to say. I have seen a power booster that will bolt up with out moving the clutch master cylinder. I am with you I don't like more stuff to go wrong I like manual brakes manual steering. I like drum brakes because they are self energizing and don't much foot pressure to work. It is the singal circuit part I don't like. If all the parts in the drums are working well like the wheel cylinders and it is in adjustment it should stop well. My 57 needs to be adjusted every 3000 miles.
I understand that parts 57.. I do a lot towing and disk brakes are a good idea for that parts.. I had larger trucks with out power brakes.. and I have never had problem stopping the trucks.. But everone one has what yhey like.. I like to keep thing simple..
It depends on what you have right now. I thought since my truck was a Ford and it appeared the master cylinder was a Ford. I purchased a dual chamber from a Mustang. (1970) found out it didn't fit. Took it back and discovered that my MC was from a 63 Buick Special (don't ask!!!), however GM Master cylinders fit onto my booster, brake rod, etc. So I got a Corvette dual disc MC and sure enough it bolted right up. You need to make sure the bolt pattern is the same, then go from there. I learned the hard way.
My 73 Ford stopped just fine - with manual disks on the front. They worked better than the drums they replaced, with about the same effort (manual drum to manual disk). I think the manufacturers designed things later where you needed to buy power brakes -