Proper Break-In
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
Proper Break-In
I was wondering if there are any special teps to take while breaking in my new 351M. I have been around friends that have put race car engines in and they would have to let the engine rev @2000 RPM for 15 minutes for the cam to properly break in. I know my 78 F150 is hardly a race vehicle nor is the engine, But I was wondering if the same rules applied. Any pointers on a good break in method would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.
New User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Houston USA
Proper Break-In
I have only rebuilt two motors and followed the break in procedure of 2000 rpms for 15 to 20 minutes. No problems.
Check out this website
http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm
Other than this I heard that you want to drive it around easy for about 200 miles and not to decelerate alot like using lower gears to slow down.
Also to vary the engine speed alittle.
Check out this website
http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm
Other than this I heard that you want to drive it around easy for about 200 miles and not to decelerate alot like using lower gears to slow down.
Also to vary the engine speed alittle.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,312
Likes: 1
From: Eldorado Ca. USA
Proper Break-In
Properly breaking in a cam is very important. So is taking it easy on the motor for at least 500 miles. Based on the numerous opinions I have heard, these are the ones that make the most sense
Opinion #1. Just drive it. No full throttle blasts. Run the motor through its entire (useable) rpm band. No more than 3/4 throttle.
Opinion #2. Take it easy. Keep the revs below 3000 rpm.
Both opinions both have some similarities.
-Vary the engine speed. Do not get on the highway and drive your first 500 miles at the same speed.
-Do not lug the motor
-Do not beat on the motor
Tony
'77 F250, 4X4 460 transplantee, "Flamer"
'74 F250. 460, "beater" now "1 dead ford"
'73 F250, "midnight auto" now a trailer for the flamer
Opinion #1. Just drive it. No full throttle blasts. Run the motor through its entire (useable) rpm band. No more than 3/4 throttle.
Opinion #2. Take it easy. Keep the revs below 3000 rpm.
Both opinions both have some similarities.
-Vary the engine speed. Do not get on the highway and drive your first 500 miles at the same speed.
-Do not lug the motor
-Do not beat on the motor
Tony
'77 F250, 4X4 460 transplantee, "Flamer"
'74 F250. 460, "beater" now "1 dead ford"
'73 F250, "midnight auto" now a trailer for the flamer
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Proper Break-In
The reason why you rev it up to 2000 RPM is because the cam gets oil that's slung off the crank, and at idle it won't get enough oil, and it would be too much friction. If the cam is new, or if you're using new lifters with an old cam, then you must do the 2000 RPM break in, this is so that the lifters can mate to the cam lobes. If you reused old lifters but put them back on different cam lobes, then you gotta break it in. The only time you don't have to break it in is if you pulled the cam out, and marked every single lifter and location, and reassembled them in the same order. Run the engine at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes, and change the oil and filter. Then drive it normally, not excessively, for 500 miles, then change the oil and filter. After that do your normal 3000 mile intervals, and you won't have any problems with it. TK
'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing
'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,652
Likes: 352
From: Albuquerque
Proper Break-In
It's also important to change the oil and filter immediately after the 20 minute break in to get rid of all the wear materials and breakin lubes.
Also try to be sure the timing is close, you've got fuel etc. You don't want to be cranking on it a lot or letting it run slow. I would vary the rpm. You want to be sure the lifters start turning in the bores or you can wipe a lobe off the cam.
Also try to be sure the timing is close, you've got fuel etc. You don't want to be cranking on it a lot or letting it run slow. I would vary the rpm. You want to be sure the lifters start turning in the bores or you can wipe a lobe off the cam.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 2
From: Gainesville, FL
Proper Break-In
All,
Oil type is critical for breakin!!!
Do not use synthetic!!!!!
Use the lightest weight oil you can find. 0-15W or 5-30W. This will help with initial break in. The first 20 minutes are critical.
If you have a valve out of adjustment, shut the motor down and adjust it correctly before completeing break in. Running break in in the driveway is OK for the first 20 minutes but don't do it by running with the choke on. Avoid a rich fuel situation.
Motor temp is important!!
If your vehicle runs cool put a piece of cardboard across the radiator to get to at least 180F. I prefer 200F.
Ring break in will occur mostly in the first 500 miles. i would suggest running non-synthetic for the first three oil changes and at that time decide whether to go to synthetic. Synthetic oil changed properly can give today's motor an infinite life, unless you tow.
Good luck,
KingFisher
Oil type is critical for breakin!!!
Do not use synthetic!!!!!
Use the lightest weight oil you can find. 0-15W or 5-30W. This will help with initial break in. The first 20 minutes are critical.
If you have a valve out of adjustment, shut the motor down and adjust it correctly before completeing break in. Running break in in the driveway is OK for the first 20 minutes but don't do it by running with the choke on. Avoid a rich fuel situation.
Motor temp is important!!
If your vehicle runs cool put a piece of cardboard across the radiator to get to at least 180F. I prefer 200F.
Ring break in will occur mostly in the first 500 miles. i would suggest running non-synthetic for the first three oil changes and at that time decide whether to go to synthetic. Synthetic oil changed properly can give today's motor an infinite life, unless you tow.
Good luck,
KingFisher
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,652
Likes: 352
From: Albuquerque
Proper Break-In
I concur on the light oil. Also non detergent is recommended by my machine shop. You will usually get a lot of heat so a box fan and a water hose should be handy.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Proper Break-In
>I concur on the light oil. Also non detergent is recommended
>by my machine shop. You will usually get a lot of heat so a
>box fan and a water hose should be handy.
I agree. My machine shop told me to run a non detergent straight 30w. This is best for the break in of the valve terrain.
79 F150 4x4 410m Built Ford Tough!(9.1:1,KB pistons,custom Comp Cams X-Treme 210/218-.508/.524,roller rockers)/c6/3.5:1 gears,4.11:1 soon, Demon 4bbl, 285/75R16 BFG Mudders on alumn. mags with New Drk. Blue paint.
65 Ranchero 170-6, 3on the tree, solid mags, New Bright Yellow paint
>by my machine shop. You will usually get a lot of heat so a
>box fan and a water hose should be handy.
I agree. My machine shop told me to run a non detergent straight 30w. This is best for the break in of the valve terrain.
79 F150 4x4 410m Built Ford Tough!(9.1:1,KB pistons,custom Comp Cams X-Treme 210/218-.508/.524,roller rockers)/c6/3.5:1 gears,4.11:1 soon, Demon 4bbl, 285/75R16 BFG Mudders on alumn. mags with New Drk. Blue paint.
65 Ranchero 170-6, 3on the tree, solid mags, New Bright Yellow paint