Under-Bed Air Tanks
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From: Phenix City, AL
That is what I'm gonna have to look at.
If I mount it under the bed, I'll probably drill though to mount the tank(s). If I put it on the frame rails, I'll do what you did and drill the frame. I'd rather not do that, which is why I'm considering putting it under the bed.
If I mount it under the bed, I'll probably drill though to mount the tank(s). If I put it on the frame rails, I'll do what you did and drill the frame. I'd rather not do that, which is why I'm considering putting it under the bed.
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From: Allen, Tx
I don't know if you'd want to buy a 5 or 10 gallon portable air tank like you find at Sears or Pep Boys. We have several of those at work and they are very thin metal compared to the 3 gallon I have under the cab. I don't know if it would hold up as well to rusting and to being sprayed by gravel and rocks. The semi-truck air tanks are pretty thick and heavy duty though.
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From: Allen, Tx
They are pretty pricy. The tank I have is an 700 cu in Bendix and that was nearly $200. You can also get a 800 cu in for $200 and a 1488 cu in for around $300. (That's 3.4 and 6.4 Gallons, respectively.) I haven't found any larger ones so far at our local International dealer. They tell me that when they need more capacity, they parallel two or three tanks together. That can get expensive quickly but you know they won't explode on you.
Last edited by n578md; Sep 23, 2005 at 01:13 AM.
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From: Phenix City, AL
There was something else....oh, you had mentioned an ARB for the rear. I had the shop in town do mine, front and rear, and they actually had very little difficulty installing it. Drilling and tapping the case is no big deal, pretty basic operation if that's what you were worried about.
I worked a deal to take them hunting when I got back and thet did my whole install for $1K. New gears, ARB's, compressor, switches.
I worked a deal to take them hunting when I got back and thet did my whole install for $1K. New gears, ARB's, compressor, switches.
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From: Allen, Tx
Yeah, I have heard a few stories around here about butchered installs involving the air line that rubs on things and leaks and also access holes leaking gear oil. I didn't want to run the risk of that, this being my work truck and all. But I am starting to have second thoughts. A Detroit can be really rough with the 6-speed. I think it may have to do with the cheap clutch disk and the weak springs in it. Maybe if I get a nice Centerforce or LUK it might be better. (Or an ARB after all...)
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From: Phenix City, AL
The air lines are an easy fix. The ARB comes with the cheap, blue plastic lines that can break. Russell Automotive and pretty much anybody that does stainless braided air lines can fix that. You just need lines with a AN -3 fitting to connect them. Here's a link to where I got mine. No breaking or rubbing issues here. http://www.rocky-road.com/airlocker.html
If drive on the street you can't beat the ARB's. Completely open dif, then lock it up solid.
I wouldn't do with a Detroit Locker if you drive mostly street. I would go with a Detroit TruTrac instead. The locker is pretty rough for normal driving. The TruTrac you will never even notice there. It's an LSD, but it's gear driven and adjsutable to different bias ratios depending on what you want. You don't need additives, no maintenance, nothing. It's 100% better than the stock OEM one.
If drive on the street you can't beat the ARB's. Completely open dif, then lock it up solid.
I wouldn't do with a Detroit Locker if you drive mostly street. I would go with a Detroit TruTrac instead. The locker is pretty rough for normal driving. The TruTrac you will never even notice there. It's an LSD, but it's gear driven and adjsutable to different bias ratios depending on what you want. You don't need additives, no maintenance, nothing. It's 100% better than the stock OEM one.
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From: Allen, Tx
Thanks for the link, I bookmarked it. I might still want to swap out the Detroit for an ARB at some point. It would be a rather easy install since the air system and underframe electrical junction box is already there. My OEM LSD worked pretty well actually, except when one wheel was off the ground, then all bets were off. That's why I got a locker, to fix that little problem. I thought about mounting the ARB switch to the gear shifter. I guess I would need a different switch type. Maybe a push-pull one so the install would look like the UPPER-LOWER gear selector on an 18-speed.
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From: Phenix City, AL
Yeah, the OEM LSD does have a pretty low break away weight. That's what's nice abot the TruTrac, no clutches to slip, no cones, no ramps. Just gears.
I just deleated the pics of the switches yesterday too. Mine are mounted under the little cubby hole in the dash. Really can't even notice them there and that section of dash panel is easily replaceable if needed. I was trying to come up with a panel to replace the trash bag hook, but I'm still over here and access to a SD is REAL limited.
You can also mount them on the dash bezel around the instrument cluster. There's room there on each side of the wheel for 2 switches.
I like the gear selector idea. That would be pretty unique.
I just deleated the pics of the switches yesterday too. Mine are mounted under the little cubby hole in the dash. Really can't even notice them there and that section of dash panel is easily replaceable if needed. I was trying to come up with a panel to replace the trash bag hook, but I'm still over here and access to a SD is REAL limited.
You can also mount them on the dash bezel around the instrument cluster. There's room there on each side of the wheel for 2 switches.
I like the gear selector idea. That would be pretty unique.
Last edited by BFR250SD; Sep 23, 2005 at 02:45 AM.
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From: Allen, Tx
I see. So the switch turns on the compressor then? SO I guess since my system has a tank that's always pressurized, I would have to get (another) air solenoid/valve and stick it between the tank and the locker, using that $67 7' section of steel braided hose. (7' ought to be enough on a reg cab.) I would just need to feed two small-gauge wires from the solenoid and then through my shifter boot on the cab floor and to the switch on the shifter. Correct?
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From: Allen, Tx
One more question... So when you turn on the locker, does the compressor run all the time (eg the locker requires constant air pressure) or does the locker need just one air pulse to engage and another air pulse to disengage?
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From: Phenix City, AL
On mine there is a switch for the compressor. You can use the compressor independent of the lockers. The ARB is a compressor w/ a small tank attached and runs between 90 - 115 PSI.
Then the 2 switches for front and rear lockers. The lockers come with all the wiring, solenoids, etc to hook up. All this gets done at the compressor, so without knowing your setup, I would assume you could just add the valve on your tank. I know lots of guys use a different setup than the ARB compressor.
Then the 2 switches for front and rear lockers. The lockers come with all the wiring, solenoids, etc to hook up. All this gets done at the compressor, so without knowing your setup, I would assume you could just add the valve on your tank. I know lots of guys use a different setup than the ARB compressor.
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From: Gloucester, Virginia
Dont know if you've seen this or if it's what you're looking for, but:
On%20Board%20Compressor%20and%20Tank
On%20Board%20Compressor%20and%20Tank