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I recently bought a 78 F150 4WD as a project truck. The more I do to this truck, the more I find that it has been modified. The identification tag shows that it came with a 400 engine and automatic transmission. Now it has a floor-shift 4 speed (that I think is a NP435). It still has the automatic shift arm on the steering column.
I was told when I bought it that it had a 351 engine. Is there some way to tell the difference between a 351 and a 400? Is there a casting number difference?
The starter and solenoid had just been replaced before I bought the truck. They are still clean and shiny like new.
Problem:
The starter makes a terrible noise when starting the engine. I took the starter off and found that the gear on the starter and the teeth on the flywheel were engaging out on the end of the teeth (not meshing fully). The teeth on the starter gear were in rough shape, starting to chip off. The flywheel teeth look ok. Does it have the wrong starter? Maybe it has the wrong flywheel? How do find out?
If you have any way of knowing where the starter was purchased---take it back to the chain(or individual store) and have them pull a starter for both a 351m and a 400 then compare them visually!!!If you're not sure then take the starter you have to an O'reilly's or autozone and have them pull BOTH starters(If there is a difference---they maybe the same animal)---if they're the same starter---actually they won't have too pull but just one starter because both 351m and the 400 will have the same part Number--then Compare that starter with the one you have--if different---you MAY have the wrong starter---I would also check the Bendigear)extension as it is supposed to project itself past the housing to engage the ring gear on the flywheel!!!Also check the ring gear for missing teeth------It is also quite possible that the prior owner was given the Wrong starter---but didn't want to take the time to return---people are lazy under certain coniditions......... :-X11
351m/400 have same starters. 429/460s have a starter that looks identical but the casting around the bendix has a different angle related to the circular positioning. if you or the parts jockeys get thm mixed, they will bolt up, but they'll grind and sream till you replace it or the flywheel wears the casting away enough to stop. Also another consideration is that some rebuilt starters are junk right out of the box. the best answer for the long, long run is a NEW high torque starter, but they are hard to justify when a rebuilt job is $45 and a new hitorque is $250+.
You can order a new , hitorque , starter from summit for 195 , and it is a very , good unit-----mine works extremely well on my newly rebuilt 400------fd :-X11
The only number I have is the AutoZone auto parts number for a Duralast starter. Their number is DL3152. They said this starter would fit a 302, 351, 400, and a 460. Their computer didn't show any difference between a manual transmission starter and one for an auto transmission.
I got them to pull out 3 starters and they all had the same casting number on the nose section. I don't remember this number and would have to pull my starter off to see what it is, or go back and get them to pull a starter out of the box again.
I made some measurements on the 3 starters and everything was the same.
I went to another parts store and did the same thing, and even looked at different "brand" name starters, but everthing was the same.
I bought a Duralast at AutoZone and it works good, even "sounds like a Ford" when you start the engine.
When my Ford is happy, I'm happy!
This is the best and most useful website on the internet!
well see you got to the bottom of the starter problem, I've had problems with their starters at times too. As far as the 351M question, you would have to pull the oil pan off and look at the crank. On the first counterweight of the crank will be a 1KA if it is a 351M, also their will probably be another letter stamped on the side of that counterweight, it is thought to be a quality control stamp. so get out your glasses, cuz it's pretty hard to read if their is some build up. It is on a flat surface on that first counterweight.gl
I have seen a shim that goes between the starter and engine block, it should be available in your local parts store. It is more common on gm motors but it is used for similar problems
I have seen a shim that goes between the starter and engine block, it should be available in your local parts store. It is more common on gm motors but it is used for similar problems
Am I the only one who's computer shows this thread as being started in 1969? Then the next one shows from 2002...
At any rate, and only somewhat related to the topic, post #5 is in error. The starter from a 460 will work just fine on a 351/400; in fact, if you order one from a '95 F-250 with a 460, you'll get a permanent magnet, gear reduced unit that is lighter, stronger and better in every possible way than the garbage that came stock on the 351/400. It even sounds better when it's working.
A very small change to how some wires are routed, as there is a solenoid built into the unit, is needed. A few threads cover how to wire it so it's not going to run away in the event of a low battery; but you basically move the starter cable to the battery stud on your fender solenoid so it's hot all the time and move the signal wire to the switched stud on the solenoid.