Exursion Rotors and Brakes
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Exursion Rotors and Brakes
Guys/Gals,
Coming over here to get some expert advise from the Ex side..
I have an 02 Ex with 28k on it with the V-10..
I have had chronic problems with the Rotors. Ford has replaced all 4 rotors, machined those sets etc and they just seem to keep on warping.
I very rarely tow anything and this is a 3 rd vehicle for my wife and I. I am the usual driver of the Ex. It is driven primarily hwy miles and not often in stop and og traffic. I never make panic stops or ride the brakes.
I just dropped the Ex off again at the Dealership to look at the rotors again, then called me and advised they would turn them. I asked how the pads looked and they said like brand new.
Why do these OEM Rotors just keep on warping??? This new set has less than 2k miles on them and they have warped again.
Am I not drivingit right? I have never ever owned a vehicle that has had a problem with the Rotors until this beast arrived in my driveway.
Plz Help..
Big Rig
Coming over here to get some expert advise from the Ex side..
I have an 02 Ex with 28k on it with the V-10..
I have had chronic problems with the Rotors. Ford has replaced all 4 rotors, machined those sets etc and they just seem to keep on warping.
I very rarely tow anything and this is a 3 rd vehicle for my wife and I. I am the usual driver of the Ex. It is driven primarily hwy miles and not often in stop and og traffic. I never make panic stops or ride the brakes.
I just dropped the Ex off again at the Dealership to look at the rotors again, then called me and advised they would turn them. I asked how the pads looked and they said like brand new.
Why do these OEM Rotors just keep on warping??? This new set has less than 2k miles on them and they have warped again.
Am I not drivingit right? I have never ever owned a vehicle that has had a problem with the Rotors until this beast arrived in my driveway.
Plz Help..
Big Rig
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Ford uses cheap steel these days for rotors. Keep it away from the dealer and find a good reputable local brake shop and they will set you up with quality parts that will solve your problems.
Glazing is what happens to pads when they get too hot. This can either be a result of driving habits (left foot brakers, etc.) or cheap parts (pads & rotors). Since you're already having quality issues with OEM, I would lean towards that as the culprit.
Where are you located?
Glazing is what happens to pads when they get too hot. This can either be a result of driving habits (left foot brakers, etc.) or cheap parts (pads & rotors). Since you're already having quality issues with OEM, I would lean towards that as the culprit.
Where are you located?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,967
Likes: 7
From: Eccles, WV
If you can find them, put a set of Bendix HP rotors and Bendix "Their Best" pads on it ans see if the problem goes away. There are several sponsors on this site that can also provide you with parts for these problems.
You stated that the vehicle is not a left-footer, tower, panic breaker or town vehicle. With this in mind, I would say that the master cylinder is holding too much pressure and not letting the pads back off the rotors when you let off the brake.
You stated that the vehicle is not a left-footer, tower, panic breaker or town vehicle. With this in mind, I would say that the master cylinder is holding too much pressure and not letting the pads back off the rotors when you let off the brake.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Southeast GA
I'm having the same problems with my '99 F350 Dually. I bought a set of Wearever rotors from Advanced Auto Parts and they lasted about 5-6 months and warped. They replaced them under warranty and the 2nd set lasted 4 months. I am also not a hard braker or left-foot driver. I just had them order me a set of Bendix rotors to replace the Wearevers. They said about $15/each extra. I've got the best (priciest?) Bendix pads on it and they still look like new (4 months old) so I probably won't replace them.
As far as the master cylinder not releasing...that ain't happening. He would be eating up pads if that were the case. I've never heard of one NOT releasing, only bypassing internally and letting the pedal slowly go to the floor.
"Deglazing pads" is a pretty good one coming from a dealership. They of all people should know you can't un-glaze or de-oil (like when a leaky seal or wheel cylinder soaks the pads/shoes). Their cost is probably $10 for a set of pads, if that. If they were worth their salt, they'd just replace them for you.
I'll post back after I've ran the Bendix rotors awhile and keep you informed.
As far as the master cylinder not releasing...that ain't happening. He would be eating up pads if that were the case. I've never heard of one NOT releasing, only bypassing internally and letting the pedal slowly go to the floor.
"Deglazing pads" is a pretty good one coming from a dealership. They of all people should know you can't un-glaze or de-oil (like when a leaky seal or wheel cylinder soaks the pads/shoes). Their cost is probably $10 for a set of pads, if that. If they were worth their salt, they'd just replace them for you.
I'll post back after I've ran the Bendix rotors awhile and keep you informed.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,967
Likes: 7
From: Eccles, WV
Hotrod, master cylinders are set to maintain a certain pressure due to the piston size in the calipers. If it did not, each time you hit the brake, the pedal travel would be great (remember the old Chryslers that felt like you were stepping on a wet sponge). The pressure is set enough so that the pads will retract ever so slightly. If something in the system is causing a greater pressure than required, the pads will glaze, the rotors will warp and brake effectiveness will decrease.
Rebuilt master cylinders are a great problem in this area.
First they are rebuilt,
Second, the cylinders are usually honed out, calling for larger cup sizes. The honing makes the pressure area (more fluid) greater.
Third, if the cylinder back pressure valve is not readjusted (replaced) for the extra area, the pressure will be higher.
These are the reasons I only replace master cylinders with new parts!
Rebuilt master cylinders are a great problem in this area.
First they are rebuilt,
Second, the cylinders are usually honed out, calling for larger cup sizes. The honing makes the pressure area (more fluid) greater.
Third, if the cylinder back pressure valve is not readjusted (replaced) for the extra area, the pressure will be higher.
These are the reasons I only replace master cylinders with new parts!
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Southeast GA
Not to argue, just differ in opinion. I don't think there is a set pressure that the master cylinder maintains against the cylinders/calipers. If so, drag would occur and heat would build up. That's why when the rubbber hose that connects the steel line to the caliper/wheel cylinder collapses, fluid cannot return to the master cylinder, thus causing the caliper/ w/c to keep pressure applied. This results in glazed linings, warped rotors and usually a bad 'pull' to the affected side.
Also, if you disconnect a brake line at the caliper or wheel cylinder, brake fluid will freeflow through the lines so obviously there is no check valve when the master cylinder is at rest. That explains the old trick og depressing the brake pedal halfway when you disconnect the lines and you won't loose fluid or get air in the line.
just my .02
Also, if you disconnect a brake line at the caliper or wheel cylinder, brake fluid will freeflow through the lines so obviously there is no check valve when the master cylinder is at rest. That explains the old trick og depressing the brake pedal halfway when you disconnect the lines and you won't loose fluid or get air in the line.
just my .02
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