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Its a 79 f150 300 six with a 3tree 84,000 miles and I cant figure out why It gets hot doesnt over heat but boils when shut off and will over heat on te highway "havent let it"wont over heat under 60mph.
water pump OK
TERMOSTAT OK-new
fan belts -new
radiator in great shape flows every thing my garden hose can put at it.
Tune up done cap-rotor-wires plugs
still gets hot
this engine is tight and I want to run it daily.
The oil looks good no water and no white smoke
timeing?
emmisions tubeing cut-pluged?
CAT CONVERT pluged a little?
havent checked the fuel fillter
No draging brakes
HELP I also want to check the plug wire configuration -fireing order I copyed The way it was.
If your timing is correct, water pump is indeed working properly (no "weeping"), your carb isn't running waaaaay lean (check the plugs), your coolant is definitly flowing properly (heater blows hot air, top heater hose to radiator is hot while bottom hose is cool, or at least cooler than the top hose), thermostat is opening properly and it isn't rated at 205 degrees then maybe your radiator just isn't up to the task. The standard rad for that engine/truck combo is a two row, approximatley 18 1/4" by 18 1/4" (that's core size) piece that is pretty wimpy, especialy if your ambient temp is high. Double check using a mechanical thermometer (like a good quality cooking thermometer) that your coolant actually is hot, it is then look at a bigger radiator or maybe a full fan shroud.
This is the 3rd engine-radiator combo I've owned and is by far the best shape the others had finns removed like5-6 of them and this truck Never got hot I'm not pulling a trailer and does it when its 60degres out.
I still need a fireing order.
I had the same problem in my 79 f150 with a 351w and the problem was that it was running way to lean, and found that I had an air leak at the base of the carb. I run the stock rad and a 160 stat now and the temp hardly reaches normal under normal driving.
You didn't say if your using a regular ford gauge or if you have a gauge that actually reads the temp-------I would install an after-market temp gauge and see what your actual result turns out to be---if you don't want to go that route then you might want to consider installing a new sending unit for the dash gauge-----fd
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Jul-02 AT 03:08 PM (EST)]Coolant temp in the block will always have a tendancy to be the highest immediately following shut down (as well as pressure). You say it boils over? Out of the pressure relief cap? I think you have a cooling problem. The 300's run quite cool with a good circulating system. Double check your t-stat on the range. Is your water to antifreeze ratio good? Your not overfilling, right? Lastly, whenever you flush the radiator, flush the heater core too. I thought my old two row was doing an OK job, but I began to notice the fins were rotting away - it still looked intact, but the overall efficiency of the radiator was shot (I'd notice temps rising on the freeway). After putting in a three row sized for AC (I want to say 26 X 19) I have had no problem. There are other items to check, like mixture and even timing - but I think it's your cooling system.
One other thought would be your tranny. Do you have an AT? It may be slipping to much causing the increased temps. Check the fluid level. (if you have one)
I know the last 6 I had I had to remove and soder fill 7 of the cores and dident get hot in the desert
This truck is a 3 on the tree "stick"
I removed the smog pump and the air cleaner asmbly to find open vacume lines all over I did a tune up cap rotor plugs wires pluged up some of the open lines the more I pluged the worse it ran I have another 79 300 6 240 miles away Its the industryal 300 with a potted-polished head and the no emmsions offenhowser intake for the
Never drove the engine but it sounds meen twin headers.So sould I ditch the stock intake and would a edilbrock 600 performer carb work n this manifold the itake has a one barell on It it needs carb work but have the polished 4bbl siting on a shelf
BTW anyone know a wrench for hire in the twin citys
Need paint wll trade a remodel on you house may be.
HEy, I have a 79 ford f100. sam ngine, same problem. i soleved it by buying a new radiator, i took off the four blade fan and put on a 5 blade. I also got a shroud, only a half shroud (top half). I drive it in town and on the highway with no prob. mine didnt over heat either, but drove on the edge. So, do you have a shroud? do you you have a good enough fan?? Oh, i tried the a new thermostat too. it didn't help either, and my new radiator had a transmission cooler, too. try those ideas though.