timing Duraspark II help!

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Sep 17, 2005 | 01:41 PM

rmwick

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timing Duraspark II help!

Have a totally rebuilt 1980 bronco with a 351 that has passed smog every year the past 10K miles. It just passed every thing except the timing was not 10 degrees it was 40 degress. How do I time this thing. My induction timing llight is fine....block off the vac advance hose, really a retard hose move the distributor and the best I can see is 20 degrees from the 40 degrees and when I put her back close to 40 degrees she runs great and at 20 degrees she runs terriable. I looked at the manual it talks about a shorting some wires out. I have the modula with the 5 wires red white orange, green and back as I re call and I think this is a Dura spark II system???

Any one have any suggestions on how I time this Dura spark system so I can see the timing wheel is at 10 degrees before I take it back to the Calif pass or fail smog station...Any input is appreciated

Bob (rmwick)

Sep 17, 2005 | 02:49 PM

82F100SWB

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From: Dryden, ON, Canada

If it still runs fine, I'd be inclined to say that the outer ring on your vibration damper has slipped, and your timing is actually fine, but, the mark on the damper is now out of place, causing the reading to be so far off.

Sep 17, 2005 | 04:09 PM

rmwick

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Thank you for your reply...Now that's a possibility, but I have a smog test from two years ago where I took it to my mech., no longer in business, who helped me rebuilt the new motor and it failed the smog because I had moved the distrubutor that time as well and the smog showed 40 degrees, he than brought it back to the test fail and got a 10 degree reading.

Does anyone know on a Duraspark II system with a centrifical advance and the vacume retard system know how to time one of these puppies?

Should you be able to get the timing to show 10 degrees by un hooking something or maybe as stated the damper has slipped?

Thanks to all

Bob

Sep 17, 2005 | 05:16 PM

subford

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From: Easton,Ks

Make sure your centrifugal advance is not frozen, twist the pointer back and forth, it should move a little in one direction and then snap back.

Here is what the FORD Manual says about it typed in verbatim.

1. Clean the surface and place a white mark on the proper degree line on the front damper and pointer according to specification noted on engine decal.

2. Disconnect the vacuum line(s) at the distributor and plug.

3. Connect timing light to No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire. Install engine speed tachometer. Loosen distributor hold down bolt.

4. Start engine, warm up and reduce idle speed to 600 RPM.

5. Adjust initial timing to specification by rotating the distributor against rotor rotation to advance timing or with rotor rotation to retard timing. When the white mark (step 1) is directly in line with pointer, ignition timing is then correct. Recheck timing when hold-down bolt is tight.

6. Check centrifugal advance by accelerating the engine (in neutral) to 2500 RPM. If ignition timing advance is noted during acceleration the centrifugal advance mechanism is functional. Refer to engine decal for specification.

7. To check Vacuum Advance, unplug and re-install carburetor source vacuum line (removed-step 2) to outer diaphragm (on dual diaphragm distributors). Accelerate engine to 2500 RPM. Total advance now should be greater than in prior step (centrifugal only) if advance mechanism is functional. If no additional advance is observed and vacuum is noted at the line to the diaphragm, remove distributor and make required repairs.

Sep 17, 2005 | 09:48 PM

plowpusher

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From: lino lakes, mn

to find out if your damper has sliiped pull #1 spark plug crank the engine until he piston starts coming up on compression stoke put your finger inj the plug hole you will fell the air blast watch the timming mark it should be visible if not your damper slipped thyen pull your dist cap and see if it points in the nieghborhood of #1 wire

Sep 18, 2005 | 12:26 AM

rfxj3

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Joined: Jun 2004

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From: Cedar Park, Texas

So in California, is it not enough to be able to pass the sniffer test? They also check that your timing is set to "stock" timing? What happens if you have installed an upgraded cam or something that requires a different timing? I understand the visual inspection to make sure that that required smog gear is still in place and functioning but if your tail pipe test is good, what does your timing matter? Especially if setting it to the stock setting makes it run less effeciently causing it to spew more HCs than it did before. Seems pretty short-sighted to me. Of course, all states seem to be following California's lead down this path and I am worried that this type of BS will show up here. In fact, they just started the tail pipe sniffer here in the two main central Texas counties and more to follow I am sure.