Radius Arm Bushing replacement, do's and don'ts
I sold my 94 f150 in in '09 and it had 50k miles on the ES poly bushings. They were still perfect riding great.
This summer I bought a '95 f150 and I replaced them with the same ES poly bushings. I didn't drill the rivets like I did on my '94 but I had to pull the front suspension down to do a couple ball joints anyway. So, I've done it both ways now.
I've never replaced the axle pivot bushings, yet. But it's the last thing I have yet to replace on the front end of my '95, now. I just threw some new shocks on yesterday and everything is riding and driving real nice.
This summer I bought a '95 f150 and I replaced them with the same ES poly bushings. I didn't drill the rivets like I did on my '94 but I had to pull the front suspension down to do a couple ball joints anyway. So, I've done it both ways now.
I've never replaced the axle pivot bushings, yet. But it's the last thing I have yet to replace on the front end of my '95, now. I just threw some new shocks on yesterday and everything is riding and driving real nice.
In an attempt to replace the radius arm bushings in a 4wd, could you take out the axle pivot bushing bolts completely to make the job easier under the truck? I would like to remove as little as possible to replace the axle pivot bushing and the radius arm bushings. Would having both bolts removed as well as the shock, spring retainer, and brake caliper make the front suspension moveable enough?
If your front end is stock then it probably is easiest to do all that at once. Wile I was under mine yesterday, your 4x4 has that axel with the rod through it and if you just do the pivot bolt, mine didn't completely come out of the axel bracket but without a lift, it may be as simple as pulling that bolt, (if your on a hoist) pulling the arm down, pressing the old out and the new in. On the other hand, if it's like mine, I'll probably have to do both of the pivot bushings in order to get it to fall far enough and if that doesn't work, you could undo the entire bracket (6 bolts). Sorry I'm kinda confusing but I'm trying to explain both lifted replacement and stock replacement at the same time.
I have replaced all of the rubber bushing on mine with the ES poly bushings. The front axle pivot bushings and the front sway bar bushings made the biggest difference. I kinda did the replacement in steps so that I could tell the difference as I replaced things. I have a 2.5" lift with the extended radius arms.
He seems to have posted 6/19/2015 s perhaps there is hope.
I was actually going to ask a very similar question today on the forum...
In an attempt to replace the radius arm bushings in a 4wd, could you take out the axle pivot bushing bolts completely to make the job easier under the truck? I would like to remove as little as possible to replace the axle pivot bushing and the radius arm bushings. Would having both bolts removed as well as the shock, spring retainer, and brake caliper make the front suspension moveable enough?
In an attempt to replace the radius arm bushings in a 4wd, could you take out the axle pivot bushing bolts completely to make the job easier under the truck? I would like to remove as little as possible to replace the axle pivot bushing and the radius arm bushings. Would having both bolts removed as well as the shock, spring retainer, and brake caliper make the front suspension moveable enough?
94 f150 extended cab.
How can you tell if the radius arm bracket's needs replacing, is there any documented measurements for the bracket hole diameter. Or what do you look during a visual inspection..... any help greatly appreciated
if its riveted, replace it. replacing it while doing the job makes it mUCH easier to do right and quickly without disassembling more stuff, and the bracket replacements bolt on. Ford has a TSB for frame creaking from the driver side bracket, so if yours is riveted, just do it.
Just wondering because I just replaced 2 years ago and I just noticed that I need to replace again while replacing front upper and lower ball joints at first I thought I just needed to tighten up the bolts but on the passenger side arm the bolt and washer has bottomed out and it's still loose basically bushings are shot already
Just wondering because I just replaced 2 years ago and I just noticed that I need to replace again while replacing front upper and lower ball joints at first I thought I just needed to tighten up the bolts but on the passenger side arm the bolt and washer has bottomed out and it's still loose basically bushings are shot already










