When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I went to leave work yesterday and truck would not start. It would just keep turning. So I pulled a wire and could not seem to see any spark when I put a screwdriver to it. The only ingnition part that I have not replaced on my truck within the past year was the coil. I have been wanting a better coil as it was so I bought an Accel one at Checkers. I get it all in and still nothing. I also checked to make sure the coil was getting power and it was. So I figured the stupid ignition module went out. Since it was not even a year old I still had a warranty and got a new one for free. I get it in and nothing still. So at this point I am getting frustrated. I decided to try spraying some starting fluid in the T.B. and boom, she started right up. I drove it all the way home and it ran fine, no problems at all. I shut it off and and went to restart it again and nothing. It just kept turning. I think it has to be a bad pickup in the dizzy. I think that maybe on the initial start it does not create a hot enough spark to make it fire up. Anyways, the dizzy is under warranty, so I will just get a whole new one instead of buying a pickup. It should be here Friday. I am open to any other ideas. It is a 88 302.
Sounds like PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor in the dizzy. Its the only thing you haven't mentioned replacing or checking that could be affecting things that I can think of. If the whole unit is under warranty (including the PIP sensor), I'd just go that route and let it be the manufacturer's problem. You might want to check your connections and have a look UNDER the rotor to make sure nothing looks or smells amiss (burnt is bad). There is a process for checking the PIP sensor but its rather complicated.
Thanks for the ideas grey. So I got the new dizzy in and installed it. Nothing. It would still turn but no start. I kept trying and trying and then it just stopped turning all together. So I figured I would replace the solenoid. Did and still the engine would not turn. Then I figured I had killed the starter by turning it over and over. So I replaced it and still nothing. I then decided I would try to jump the solenoid with a screw driver and she fired right up. It turned out to be the ignition switch that sits on top of the steering column. I had already replaced this once less then a year ago and it went out again. It is wierd that it would allow the truck to turn but no spark, then it stopped turning all together. Well, after replacing a ton of stuff I am happy that I have a truck again!
Last edited by kameronth; Sep 16, 2005 at 11:33 AM.
I had already replaced this once less then a year ago and it went out again. It is wierd that it would allow the truck to turn but no spark, then it stopped turning all together.
Sorry to hear that it failed again so soon. Actually, if you look at the wiring diagram of the ignition switch, its not so wierd to have part of it work and part of it fail. There are a bunch of different contacts inside the ignition switch and its possible that ONE failed while the others remained intact. If there is a connector or socket that the switch plugs into, you might want to check for signs of arcing or corrosion in the contacts there. The presence of soot from poor connections (arcing) and corrosion from moisture will increase the heat generated by the electricity as it flows through the contacts. This could be part of the reason the second switch failed so soon after it was replaced.
Last edited by greystreak92; Sep 16, 2005 at 02:08 PM.
Ya, I had checked the harness and everything looked fine. The first one failed because someone attempted to steal my truck and broke it. The second one was split in half, the clamps gave way on it. It was just a cheapo from AZ.