There's only one think I hate more that root canals, and that is polishing aluminium. I've got a bunch of polished alum. parts for my truck and I'm wondering if I can get them clear powder coated to retain their shine and eliminate the need for repeated polishing.

Has anyone tried this?

Thanks. - Brad

 

I'm not sure about clear powder coating aluminum but you might also check out the Zoops products that supposedly keep aluminum from needing attention for up to a year (I think, memory is going).

 

It's possible to clear coat or powder coat in clear. Spray on clear coat will give you a haze and not give you that polished aluminum shine. Powder coat is a great idea but expensive. A good example of clear powder coating is on polished brass faucets. They are polished brass and merely powder coated clear. The powder coat will last quite a long time (use to do that for a living). Same process can be applied on aluminum, etc. I'm not sure if its Zoops or ???? (I'm getting brain dead also) but there is a polishing cream that shines up aluminum and lasts for up to a year like Leckart mentioned. Some of the aftermarket wheel companies and using and selling it now. I heard it's awesome stuff. I know several people use it on engine brackets, manifolds and rims. Might be a better option here.

 

Thanks guys.

I checked out the Zoop's stuff that Leckart mentioned and it's expensive too. $129 for the kit. I've got to believe that's pretty close to what I would pay for powder coat.

 

How about clear anodizing?

 

svooom-
Regarding the Zoop's: maybe split the cost with a buddy who needs to do his billet stuff also? Just a thought. That's is what I'm thinking of doing.

 

Clear powdercoating can be performed but there are a few things to keep in mind.

1) Some clear coat powders will turn yellow when baked in the oven. Unless your powder coater is experienced with the clear powder he proposes to use on your parts and can tell you specifically it won't, assume it will yellow. This is not a huge deal since lots of folks do clear now, but I found several that claim they "do clear all the time" that don't.

2) The bigger problem - and again it comes down to the powder coater, is bubbles. All powder coating will form a few bubbles in the oven. It's inherent to the process - some more, some less. With clear powder coats on polished parts however, the bubbles stand out like a sore thumb and really wreck the appearance of the finished part - which particularly sucks since you've likely spent hours polishing it prior to taking it to the coater...which brings me to 3)

3) Scratches. Scratches ruin the look of the polished aluminum fast, and I've yet to find a powder coater that will handle the polished part with the same care you've taken to get it to him scratch-free.

I've learned these things in the school of hard knocks trying to clear powder coat a bunch of aluminum 4-wheeler parts...spent weeks of time polishing, located an "experienced" coater, and carefully wrapped and packed the parts over to him only to get them back full of scratches and bubbles.

Anodizing is the process I'm looking into for my truck trim now. In anodizing, aluminum oxide is electrochemically formed on the surface. The oxide is then converted to aluminum hydrate, which is extremely hard and protects the part from chips, scratches, and further oxidation.

Bright-dip anodizing is a variation of the the process and probably the one you want to employ for bright aluminum trim. In bright-dip anodizing the part is first electropolished to an extremely shiny finish, then anodized. This might be what is refered to as "clear" anodizing up above, but there is really no "clear" anodized finish. As with any anodizing process, the part is dulled somewhat by electrochemically growing a layer of aluminum oxide/hydride on the surface. The shinier the part prior to anodizing, the shinier the finished anodized part will be.

You can, I believe, achieve the same results as bright-dip anodizing by polishing the part yourself to a fine finish (white rouge, etc.) then having it anodized. That's the theory I'm operating under at the moment. I have my first trial part out at the anodizer right now. This particular anodizer can't do "bright-dip" anodizing, so I polished the part as bright as it will go, then sent it off to him. I've ask him to put the minimum thickness of oxide on the part to protect it. I should have the part back next week - so I'll see how much the shine diminishes in the process.

I've posted a bunch about metal polishing and I'll add my results from this trial, hopefully next week.

Good luck!

 

2 bocat- No offense buddy, but if the guy whose powder coating has all the above problems you mentioned, yellowing, bubbling, scratches, etc. He's not staying in business very long. Most powder coating places I've dealt with won't give you the part unless it's done right. I wouldn't pay for a job like that either.

 

ya...twas my first and last trip to that establishment...

 

I had an aluminum wheel clear-coated once. The OEM finish was history, so I polished it good and took it to a reputable spot. Came out looking super, although there were a few "drips" looking things. But as soon as I put it on the car, and drove it a few days, the heat from braking (apparently) caused the wheel to expand, and the clear coat cracked. Just my experience, if these are engine parts you may want to think about it.

There is also one kind of powder that is good for UV resistance, but isn't as glossy. The ones that are glossy aren't exterior rated. I don't remember which is which. Would be critical for clear.

There is a relatively common chemical (something like waterglass) that can be applied and essentially does the same thing as 2bocat is describing, forms a thin oxide layer. Flathead guys use it on their aluminum heads with very good results. Danged if I wrote down what it is, of course. The forum where I saw it doesn't have a Search feature, so I hope someone here knows what I'm talking about...

 

Bocat, let us know if you find a good anodizing place, I need to do my lower grille.... -4speed

 

I just read an article in Classic Trucks Mag. where a shop was doing billet powdercoating with a new "Chrystal Clear" product. Dont know the heat rating but check out their web site for more info on it. If one shop can do it , chances are a shop in your area can too.

Ed

 

If you get it done in powder, you should not have any problems if they use a Polysester clear coat.

If you arent sure about a place, just ask to see samples of their work.

 

i know their is a product that is sprayed on polished aluminium and it is extremely tough (we use it on the bottom of riverboats so it can take a beating) i will get the name of it for you

 

There is a silver powder that gives a near plated finish, I believe that's what Edelbrock is using on their new manifolds. It requires a clear coat on top, so it would be a little more expensive but the actual metal would not show thru, so would not require high polishing first.