Both.
Just do a search and find a dealer in your area.
I bought my headers several years ago, it does look like the price has went up some. $447/set range seems to be the going rate. But shop around, you could probably save $20 to $40 by looking around. Type of finish/stainless steel works on price too.
Man, I'm getting old......

 

Alright, so I called up my local parts store earlier and discussed prices with me. He said he'd recommend spending the $300 that it would cost me for new manifolds and just get some shorties. He can get me any brand I'm looking for Bassani to JBA to Headman. All my friends that have headers on their vehicles have gone with Headman, but I've been wondering why is it that nobody on here seems to go with anything but Bassani or JBA. I will most likely go with those since Bassani just seem to be overpriced to me. But anyways, do the Headman Headers not bolt right up to the stock exhaust? I was also wondering if the new gaskets and header bolts will come with them. I was looking at the JBA header kit for my bronco and their website wants $389 if i want the gaskets and bolts does this sound right???

 

From what I hear tell in and around this forum there has been some concern over correct fit and leak issues with the Headman brand. The JBA units are very good and of similar quality to the Bassani's as I have been lead to believe. The Bassani units are a bit pricey but the flanges are thicker than other manufacturers' which helps reduce warping and maintains a strong sealing surface. the Bassani units are also designed around the vehicle/engine combination that they are intended to fit. In other words, if you buy a set of Bassani headers for your Bronco/F-series with a 302, you will get a set of headers that was designed USING one of these trucks, not just a 302 on a stand and a dyno. Bassani also produces equal length short headers. If you straightened out the tubing used from each exhaust port in a Bassani header, the tubing would be the exact same length. This is a performance feature which keeps the exhaust from one cylinder from "colliding" with the exhaust from the another cylinder in the bank. This keeps the exhaust moving OUT and the movement keeps the exhaust that is in front of the next, "pulling" the exhaust along. Now JBA may be producing a similar equal length design with equally thick flanges etc. I don't know for certain as I have not had need to research their construction techniques. The recommendation would be to check into these high quality features and their availability on a header with a smaller pricetag. If these feature are indeed available on the lower priced units, well then you have found yourself an even better deal.

By the way, the Bassani pricetag includes ALL the hardware AND the high performance graphite-insert gaskets that they recommend.

 

I have been pouring the liquid wrench on the bolts that I can reach but I need to get the can with that spray straw on it, or this will be a big pain. Anyways, I was looking at taking the fender wall off with the two canisters attached to it, and i was wondering what size the tiny bolts are holding it on. The smallest wrench I have is a 7mm and these little screws or bolts holding it in place all around are something like a 5mm or so. What did you use to get these little *******s off? And what exactly are these two canisters? I've always wondered but have no idea what they are for.

 

The "coffee can" is the vacuum reserve cannister which holds vacuum when the engine is not running for certian things that require it at startup. The other is the intake air filter for the Thermactor air injection (smog) pump. Oh, and they are 5MM bolts.

 

I didn't think my particular year had a smog pump, a few people even told me I didn't have one.

 

News to me. Every light truck manufactured after about 1976 should have one (Well until recently. Some newer engines/emissions systems are efficient enough to not need them anymore). Moreover the EEC-IV computer relys on readings that are affected by the Thermactor system. The smog pump initiates the air flow through the system.

 

Alright ya'll well 7 hours and many problems later my new headers are on. I ended up having to use a drimmel to cut out some of the bolts on the collectors after having my buddy use his impact wrench to break those rusted things loose. The passenger side took nearly 4 hours with problems and breaks, but the drivers side went in smoothly without any problems really. My manifold came out in two pieces from the crack that was all the way around it. That sumbitch was heavier than both new headers combined. But afterwards when I started it up and let it run there is kind of a funny smell, not exhaust, fuel or any other fluids its only what I can deem that "new header smell" is that common after installing headers??

 

Its more than likely some of the machining oils from the manufacturing process and the oils from your hands burning off that you are smelling. If you used anti-seize compound on the new bolts you will smell that stuff until the moisture evaporates out of it.