Violent shaking while braking
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Violent shaking while braking
Truck info: 1993 F/S bronco 302 EB. Auto trans, 4X4
The problem: While braking the pedal, steering, and well the whole truck starts shaking pretty bad. When I'm driving straight it's not to bad, but when I'm turning (even a little) it starts shaking alot worse. Mostly at high speed is when it gets real bad.
I've already replaced brake pads, calipers (new) hubs, I have a steering box on the way. I'm thinkin maybe I should replace the wheel bearing? What do you guys think? Would the wheel bearings cause shaking that bad?
Also I'm thinkin I might replace the rotors with drilled and slotted rotors. Whats your guys opinion on drilled rotors?
Anyhow thanks alot for all the info now and in the past!
John
The problem: While braking the pedal, steering, and well the whole truck starts shaking pretty bad. When I'm driving straight it's not to bad, but when I'm turning (even a little) it starts shaking alot worse. Mostly at high speed is when it gets real bad.
I've already replaced brake pads, calipers (new) hubs, I have a steering box on the way. I'm thinkin maybe I should replace the wheel bearing? What do you guys think? Would the wheel bearings cause shaking that bad?
Also I'm thinkin I might replace the rotors with drilled and slotted rotors. Whats your guys opinion on drilled rotors?
Anyhow thanks alot for all the info now and in the past!
John
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
Every time I used a drilled rotor (even the $$$ ones) they developed cracks between the holes.....forget it for a Bronco. When you replaced the rotors did you check the wheel bearings for wear/over heating??? It sure sounds like a bearing issue to me....I dont know how it could have warped a rotor so fast???
Also check your drive shaft and and the bolt that holds the yoke where it goes to the rear end???
Also check your drive shaft and and the bolt that holds the yoke where it goes to the rear end???
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Did not check the bearings, and I havn't replaced the rotors. I had them off, but I did not have them turned or replaced. Theb rotors appeared in good cond. when I looked at them. I did notice on the back of the rotor there are a bunch of little fins. Any idea what these fins do? Anyhow a couple of them were broken off.
As for bearing when I took the drivers side apart the bearing lock nuts weren't very tight. How tight are these supposed to be? I didn't have the socket to get the nuts off, so I just popped them a few times with a screwdriver and hammer and they came right off. Didn't even put a mark on the nut where I hit it with the screwdriver. Too loose?
As for bearing when I took the drivers side apart the bearing lock nuts weren't very tight. How tight are these supposed to be? I didn't have the socket to get the nuts off, so I just popped them a few times with a screwdriver and hammer and they came right off. Didn't even put a mark on the nut where I hit it with the screwdriver. Too loose?
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From: END OF THE OREGON TRAIL
Check front wheel bearings, Sounds like too much rotor runout, you need a dial indicator to check it(max runout is .006). I had same problem. Front wheel bearings worn out and warped rotors.
Ford has 2 different specs for front wheel bearing clearance.
.002-.006 for auto locking hubs.
.000-.001 for manual hubs.
I think over time that little bit of extra clearance on auto hubs leads to too much bearing clearance and runout in front rotors.
I replaced bearings rotors etc.
No more Shake n Brake.
Ford has 2 different specs for front wheel bearing clearance.
.002-.006 for auto locking hubs.
.000-.001 for manual hubs.
I think over time that little bit of extra clearance on auto hubs leads to too much bearing clearance and runout in front rotors.
I replaced bearings rotors etc.
No more Shake n Brake.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
Originally Posted by Evan III
Did not check the bearings, and I haven't replaced the rotors. I had them off, but I did not have them turned or replaced. Theb rotors appeared in good cond. when I looked at them. I did notice on the back of the rotor there are a bunch of little fins. Any idea what these fins do? Anyhow a couple of them were broken off.
As for bearing when I took the drivers side apart the bearing lock nuts weren't very tight. How tight are these supposed to be? I didn't have the socket to get the nuts off, so I just popped them a few times with a screwdriver and hammer and they came right off. Didn't even put a mark on the nut where I hit it with the screwdriver. Too loose?
As for bearing when I took the drivers side apart the bearing lock nuts weren't very tight. How tight are these supposed to be? I didn't have the socket to get the nuts off, so I just popped them a few times with a screwdriver and hammer and they came right off. Didn't even put a mark on the nut where I hit it with the screwdriver. Too loose?
I usually seat the bearing by "feel" while turning the hub forward and back while tightening, then torque the outer lock nut to spec.
Here is a screen shot of one of my repair disc's outlining the procedure
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Thanks for all the info, I just took my bronco back to the shop for A/C reasons and I asked the guy to check out the steering. He's telling me the Ball joints are the problem. He says there is alot of play in the upper and the lower Ball joints. Does this sound creditable to you guys? Next question is how hard is it to do ball joints? I've never do it before, I know you need special tools, but what tools will I need and is it fairly doable at home in the driveway? Also the shop said to use good joints or they will fail soon after, is this true and what are good ball joints to use? Thanks again for the help, and thanks to you guys I now have my 4X4 working.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
sure ball joints could cause this as well. doesnt hurt to have those replaced. get a haynes manual so you can take apart your front end properly yourself. it will save you money for sure.
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From: Gateway to the West
Taking the front end apart is time consuming but since mechanics are paid by the hour, doing it yourself will certainly save you money as Kem stated. Just a couple of things to know going into this project. The balljoints are press fit into the steering knuckles so unless you have a removal tool setup, you might want a machine shop to deal with actually removing and installing the old/new ones out of/into the knuckles. Second, you WILL need an alignment as soon as the project if completed (like before you do anything else).
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 383
Likes: 6
From: California
I'd have to say...
Turn the rotors. and adjust the rear brakes. Everytime I have this problem it seems the rotors aren't gettting turned. It also seems they end up working hard, overheating and warping from the rears not doing their job.
Good luck
Mike
Good luck
Mike
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Guys thanks a bunch for all the help. I took it apart this weekend and had some fun. Took me about 7 hours to replace ball joints, and wheel bearings. Te hardest part is fighting rust the whole time, but I should be used to that by now. After all I fix industrial laundry equipment, you want to see rusty. Anyhow came out ok, 90% of the shaking is gone, I assume the other 10% is due to the rotors and alignment, but thats gonna have to wait, everything takes a back seat to Deer season. The wife normally gets pissed and don't remember who I am by the time season ends, Anyhow this is my broncos first hunting season so let hope she don't let me down. Thanks alot for all the info, and I'll be back in a coupla weeks.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 383
Likes: 6
From: California
Oh man you did the wheel bearings and didn't have the rotors turned? Not the hot ticket. Anyhow live and learn. In my experience when I do the pads I take the extra 45 min. to do the rotors just cause. Glad to hear things are better. The other thing that might help is a pretty quick deal is replacing the radius arm bushings.
Glad to hear its better anyhow. Thanks for the report back.
Mike
Glad to hear its better anyhow. Thanks for the report back.
Mike
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Ya the whole time I was thinkin I should go buy new rotors, but by the end of the day I was putting it back together in the dark, ran out of time and I'm leaving friday so thats it. I'm planning on doing alot more work to it, so I'm holding off on bushings, alignment, shocks, etc. tell I get it lifted, then alot of it will be replaced anyway. I plan on getting ext. arms. Also I plan on upgrading to rear disks pretty soon. well thanks again.
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