anybody know if i can put fenderwell headers in a 77 f-250 4x4 with a 460 lincoln

 

hello anybody?

 

Here is the part # for the hedmen elite ceramic coated headers I was talking about for $265.

HED-89218

I was also debating of if I should go with Dynomax's ceramic coated headers for $250

Part # WLK-86052

 

I see your knew, so I just want to let you know you need to wait more than 6 minutes to get a good respose, this isn't a chat room, but if you wait I'm sure a couple of people could give you some good answers on this.

 

thank you i didnt know

 

i share the same philosophy, i only want to do this job once. headers are notorious for install problems, if you don't believe me go get some estimates for installing them from a few local shops. i had one place tell me they would do it if i left them a blank signed check!!! they said there are too many variables to give an accurate estimation, so it would just be time and materials. i am also on a budget, so i opted to do the install myself.

these particular headers were actually quite easy to install, in comparison to other headers i have done in the past. minor trimming of the inner passenger fender, and removal of the bracket that holds the brake lines between the master cylinder and proportioning valve on the driver's side. this is no big deal for me, as i am in the process of converting my rear drums to discs, and a new proportioning valve will be required anyways. i was able to trim the inner passenger side fender with a pair of tin snips, not much had to be removed at all. other than these problems (which hedmans literature informed me of before i even started the job), i'd just have to say the job was just time consuming, and not really a major hassle at all. glad i did it myself, instead of leaving someone else a blank check!!

 

Jerry, there's a couple options. Is your truck an early 77 (divorced transfer case) or a late 77 with a married case? L&L claims that the early style trucks need a 3" bodylift to make their headers fit. I have no idea why this is or if there's a way around it. I'm using them in my 78 and they don't require any bodylift on the later models. Check out this link: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...ender_exit.htm
Also another brand to look into but they're not finished so you'd want to have them coated: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...rwell_exit.htm This brand doesn't make any claims about needing a bodylift for earlier trucks so I don't know how they differ with the L&L's.

EDIT I just added a gallery with some pics of my exhaust system if you want to get an idea of how it fits: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=17989

 

Someone up thread asked about ease of install of those fenderwell exit. I ordered mine on tuesday. They arived about noon Thursday. I started the install about 3:30pm and cleaned the grime off my hands about 8:30.......five hours start to finish with the exhaust system included.

I fought a few things, like that darned dipstick fitting, and I had to do some slight rerouting of my brake lines and had to trim the inside fender panel on the passenger side a little. But it was a pretty easy install.

My truck is an early 77 f250 (hiboy) w/351m.

 

I tryed asking the place I've done exhaust buiseness with several times before how much he would charge to install a set of headers and all he said was, "I won't do it" I asked him for a guess no matter the price(even though I didn't mean it) he said "You need to do that your self, I don't want to do that".

That might of been, because he would of had to do the work himself, instead of his main guy, which was in jail, again. That tells you alot about him.

 

i have installed quite a few sets of normal headers. why does it seem like most of the people are wanting to take it to a shop and have them do it. save the money and do it yourself

 

sparky69...wondering about the rear disc brake conversion from drums......any websites or info you can share???...I have a 1989 F-250 4x4 that Id like to convert

 

i have also installed several sets of headers over the years. the reason i asked around was because at the time i was working 7 days a week, 10 hrs. a day. i work in construction and did not want to wait till layoff time to do the job. besides i didn't know if it would still be warm enough here in wisconsin to do the job outdoors by the time my last job ended, and when faced with doing it myself, in a snowbank, paying someone else to get it done would beat waiting for spring to roll around...

 

search the appropriate forum for this info. i got all my info here in the 73-79 forum by searching for relavant terms like "rear disc" or "brake conversion". it really depends upon your rear axle. mine is a dana 60 (also another relavent search phrase) and yours should be also, but if your rear axle is different the procedure may differ as well. search long and hard as price ranges vary greatly. my searching led me to a guy on e-bay who custom fabricates the brackets out of 3/8" steel, and he also tells you what rotors and calipers to get to make this conversion work properly. the only downside is having to change the proportioning valve to get the system operational again. this info is all here as well, good luck.

 

Sparky, did you try your rear discs prior to changing the proportioning valve or did you swap it at the same time you did your conversion? I was told I didn't need to change mine so I didn't and it works perfectly. Blackbird's Custom Trucks sells complete kits if you don't want to piece it all together yourself. He's done hundreds of disc conversions and told me he's never once had to change proportioning valves on full size trucks.

 

i have not gotten to the disc brake swap yet, hoping to have some time to do it this week. i have all the parts except the new proportioning valve. i will definitely try it with the old one, but from reading posts by others who have done this i thought it would be required. the solution others have used seems to be getting an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve. fine tuning to the brake system can then be done. i guess you lose the brake warning light with the aftermarket type, as it has no electrical connector. this kind of sucks, so maybe i'll get lucky and be able to retain my stock one. i'll let ya know how it works out... by the way, i grew up in southern WA state, the Tri-Cities area (Richland, Pasco, Kennewick). I really miss all the open desert and mountains you guys have for wheelin'. too many farms here in Wisconsin, and the farmers get kind of pissy if you drive thru their fields.