tired front end
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Peoria IL
tired front end
i made the depressing mistake of checking out my front end today. I am getting new tires and wanted to figure out why my old ones were wearing funny before i ruined my new ones.
Turns out the joint that attaches the long tierod to the pitman arm on the steering box is shot. Does this mean i have to buy the whole tie rod or is ther some way to replace the joint?
I also found my ball joints are a little sloppy but not bad enough to wear out tires yet.
I also found my outer u-joint on the passenger side is completely shot. It doesnt look like fun to replace. what is involved in the u-joint replacement?
Turns out the joint that attaches the long tierod to the pitman arm on the steering box is shot. Does this mean i have to buy the whole tie rod or is ther some way to replace the joint?
I also found my ball joints are a little sloppy but not bad enough to wear out tires yet.
I also found my outer u-joint on the passenger side is completely shot. It doesnt look like fun to replace. what is involved in the u-joint replacement?
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Peoria IL
I stil have to drive it until i get the tie rod. I guess i will just have to pray it doesnt break going down the highway at 60 and I will veer into an oncoming Peterbilt from a lack of steering.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
For the tie rod ....bad news that one is kinda expensive.
If it is in very bad shape I would not drive it. Thumbing a ride is much better than wrecking your truck or worse.
Don't gamble with steering components, it is not worth the risk.
The U joints are not that bad, remove the wheel, disassemble the rotor and hub, remove the spindle and dust cover, slide the axle out and replace the U joint. Reverse the removal procedure and you are done. First time out I would figure about 4 hours with air tools to complete the job.
If it is in very bad shape I would not drive it. Thumbing a ride is much better than wrecking your truck or worse.
Don't gamble with steering components, it is not worth the risk.
The U joints are not that bad, remove the wheel, disassemble the rotor and hub, remove the spindle and dust cover, slide the axle out and replace the U joint. Reverse the removal procedure and you are done. First time out I would figure about 4 hours with air tools to complete the job.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 566
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
The center link (a.k.a. drag link) is not that expensive. I bought one for my F250, as well as the inner tie rod and both outer tie rods and the pickle fork (tie rod separator) for about $130 altogether. The tie rods were about $18-$20 each, and the center link was around $28-30 if memory serves. I haven't installed them yet, because I have some other repairs to do first (long story). The ones I bought had a 1 year warranty. You can get them with a lifetime warranty, but they cost more. If I ever have to replace them again, I'll get the lifetime warranty units then. This time around, I needed to save a few bucks.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 743
Likes: 2
From: MI -- farmboy
matts156 is right. I just replaced some parts on my truck and they were not that bad in price. Took me all of 2 hours to replace the sway link and a tie rod end. I will admit, I went against my better judgement and bought the cheap parts instead of the good american made one, BUT, I also plan on selling my beast in the spring and getting a newer model.
If you plan on keeping the truck, replace the worn parts now, all of them. You are much better off doing everything at once, than waiting unti each part wears. No different than ujoints, dont change just 1, change all in that part of the drive line. I learned this the hard way in my f150. I changed the rear one, drove 1500 miles (on vacation) had to pay a mechanic to change the front joint (becauseI just changed the rear, right ?). Came home, and had to change both again. If 1 part goes bad, it affects the rest in the line. Its been 15000 miles since and no probs.
If you plan on keeping the truck, replace the worn parts now, all of them. You are much better off doing everything at once, than waiting unti each part wears. No different than ujoints, dont change just 1, change all in that part of the drive line. I learned this the hard way in my f150. I changed the rear one, drove 1500 miles (on vacation) had to pay a mechanic to change the front joint (becauseI just changed the rear, right ?). Came home, and had to change both again. If 1 part goes bad, it affects the rest in the line. Its been 15000 miles since and no probs.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Peoria IL
I picked up a tie rod today for $45. It was the cheap one with the neoprene bushing and not the brass bushing. The good one was $120 and at that price I can change this one out twice for less money.
How do you take the hub apart? Ive taken the lockin assembly apart but cant remember wat was behind it. Isnt it a big nut that you take off? Can the new u-joint be put in with a vise or does it need a press.
How do you take the hub apart? Ive taken the lockin assembly apart but cant remember wat was behind it. Isnt it a big nut that you take off? Can the new u-joint be put in with a vise or does it need a press.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Once you get the locking hub out, you should see the locknut.
You probably have the racheting nut that needs a four point socket to remove and install.
Pull the caliper off the rotor.
Remove the rotor.
Remove the spindle.
Remove the dust cover.
Slide the axle out through the steering knuckle.
The ujoint is just like replacing one in a driveshaft after you get the axle out, no big deal.
I did mine in a vise with no problems.
First time it will take several hours to do, but it will go much faster the next time.
You probably have the racheting nut that needs a four point socket to remove and install.
Pull the caliper off the rotor.
Remove the rotor.
Remove the spindle.
Remove the dust cover.
Slide the axle out through the steering knuckle.
The ujoint is just like replacing one in a driveshaft after you get the axle out, no big deal.
I did mine in a vise with no problems.
First time it will take several hours to do, but it will go much faster the next time.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Peoria IL
I got my tierod on today but had to make a parts run to replace the tierod end also. It has almost no slop in the steering now but tracks to the left a little. I hope to be able to tweek the alignment until it goes straight and the steering wheel is back where its supposed to be. If its that close than it shouldnt eat tires or will be better than having the steering wheel a half turn to the right going down the road.
Dave:
I assume the axle will just pull out of the front differential like it does on the rear?
Dave:
I assume the axle will just pull out of the front differential like it does on the rear?
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Peoria IL
I tore into the front end again today to replace the u-joint. I cant see any way of getting the hub off. There is no nut like the rear end or nothin. Right now I have the cap off the hub and I removed a snap ring that keeps the axle shaft from moving back into the diff. I also removed a snap ring that goes againt the outer part of the hub. That aluminum piece with all the slots will not pull out after I took out the snap ring. The aluminum piece does have six slots around the outside but a hub socket is to small to fit it and the piece has to be splined because that is what turns the hub.
Advice from anyone soon would be appreciated since I have to drive it tomorrrow.
Advice from anyone soon would be appreciated since I have to drive it tomorrrow.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Yes the nut you are looking for is behind the aluminum piece you are looking at.
If it was not removed for a long time, they do get to be a pain to get out. I lightly coat mine with never seize when I install mine now days.
As butch said, use two of the hub screws to pull on it, carefully.
Those are small screws that break easily with to much stress on them.
If it was not removed for a long time, they do get to be a pain to get out. I lightly coat mine with never seize when I install mine now days.
As butch said, use two of the hub screws to pull on it, carefully.
Those are small screws that break easily with to much stress on them.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Peoria IL
I ended up getting the hub off yesterday but the spindle was another problem. It wouldnt come off for anything. I removed the 8 bolt tapped in the studs just enough to break them loose and sprayed WD40 everywhere. After beating the hell out of it with a wood block and a hammer it started off but I ran out of daylight and had to put it all back together to drive it today.
The bearing that holds the axle in the hub is completely shot on both sides so I get to do this project twice and spend some more of the green stuff. If it wasnt for the white stuff that falls from the sky around here in a couple months I wouldnt worry about the 4wheel drive right now.
Dave:
Are you sure that axle will fit through the steering knuckle? That u-joint looks bigger than the hole. If it doesnt I get to learn how ball joints are replaced too.
The bearing that holds the axle in the hub is completely shot on both sides so I get to do this project twice and spend some more of the green stuff. If it wasnt for the white stuff that falls from the sky around here in a couple months I wouldnt worry about the 4wheel drive right now.
Dave:
Are you sure that axle will fit through the steering knuckle? That u-joint looks bigger than the hole. If it doesnt I get to learn how ball joints are replaced too.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 566
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
Wow, $45 is a lot for a tie rod. Check out Autozone.com. They have lifetime waranteed parts and they're about half what you paid. They ship, too, but I haven't checked their rates. By the time you add S/H, sometimes it's more, but it's worth checking in to.