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Starter nightmare, please help

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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 03:22 PM
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Starter nightmare, please help

Ok, it's been a long confusing battle with the starting system but I will summarize as best I can...

'94 F-150, ext., 2wd, 5.8l, auto, 220,000kms.

Bought the truck used 2 years ago, after 3months the starter would not work, all you would hear when attempting to start was a click, tapped the starter it worked for a week or two, replaced the starter, worked fine for about 4 months (same symptoms) took the starter back had it replaced, worked good for about a month. Took the truck in, the tech looked it over, reconnected the wire from the relay to the starter, worked good for about 8 months, replaced the starter again, checked the battery, charging system, all good. Worked again for about 3 months. Everytime the starter quits, all you hear is a click sound, the radio, lights...etc. do power up and cut out as supposed to while turning the key over. To get the starter to work, I can tap on the flywheel housing (or starter, although I only tap the flywheel) and it will work for about a day or so.

My question is this, if it was a wiring problem, flywheel problem...etc. why would replacing the starter fix it for 3-6 months, then the same problem happens again? And why would tapping the flywheel housing get it to start sometimes? I did put on a heat shield as was suggested before, but no help.

Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 03:30 PM
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 04:21 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
You said reconnected the wire from the relay to the starter, I think this is the key.

I think that if you replace the wiring from the relay to the starter and make sure when it is put on that the wires are position down away from the exhaust manifold as far as possible. I had to cut back the small wire and put a new end on mine the other day. When FORD put that gear reducer starter on it, it moved the wires up closer to the exhaust manifold and they did not put a heat shield in there.

 
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 10:35 PM
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we'll see what happens

thanks for the advice, i put in the new starter, checked all the wires...etc. it's working good for now, but I know i only have couple-few months before this one is shot too. In response to the starter-relay wire, I seem to recall it wasn't the actual wire from the starter to the relay that was checked over by the tech, but in fact the little pop-on connector wire on the relay that is hooked up to the "S" terminal. So, i'm almost given up on it, hopefully I can make it 6 or so more months, then I'll be trading up to a 98-99 f-150, this time with the 4 wheel drive.

Thanks again...
 
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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From: Central NY
Hi,

I think you need to clean all your connections; hot and ground.

Disconnect the battery. Clean the posts and terminals. Leave them disconnected.
Disconnect the fender solenoid and clean all the connectors.
Unscrew the fender stud (ie body ground), just in front of the battery, Sand down the fender and clean up all the connectors. Reassemble but don't forget the dielectric grease. This one can be the worst one since the other end of that stud is INSIDE the fender...
Follow the Battery negative cable down to the frame. Disassemble, sand/clean and Reassemble.
Find the Frame to engine block cable. Sand/clean and then reassemble.
Disconnect and pull the starter. Clean all the connectors there. Sand the block where the starter mates to it. Sand the starter portion of this mating surface too (This is where the starter gets its ground and no ground=no start) Reinstall the stater.
Reconnect the battery.
You'll need to reprogram your radio stations and drive the truck for 20 minutes(maybe it was 10) so the computer can relearn how to manage your engine.

Lastly, if your starters have been rebuilts with lifetime warranty, fork up the extra cash and upgrade to NEW w/lifetime warranty the next time it dies. I went thru the same thing with the rebuilds (3 or 4 of them) and now going on almost 2 years with a NEW one.

Cheers,
Popa Tim
 

Last edited by Popa Tim; Sep 13, 2005 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:25 PM
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Popa,

You are more than likely right, I had thought about checking ground - hot before, the battery is in excellent condition, but the grounded wires are more than likely biting into rust only. The other thing that I had just done, was disconnect the auto start wiring from the battery and disconnected the switch, just in case it was interfering with the ignition. We'll see how it goes, worst case, it craps out again in a few months and I'll have to take it in prepared to pay $150-$300. I'll let you know.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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Anytime ive heard just a click when u go to start it, ive always thought it was the sylenoid. I have that happen to an old 76 hi boy i had, and i just crossed the sylenoid every time, fired right up...
 
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 05:20 AM
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My 93 f150 did that and i found that the spade connector on the starter was dirty and very loose. I recrimped it a little and it started right up. Havent had any problems for 4 years now. My .02
 
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 08:01 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by sumbeach
My 93 f150 did that and i found that the spade connector on the starter was dirty and very loose. I recrimped it a little and it started right up. Havent had any problems for 4 years now. My .02
Sumbeach you are right, they only ran that little 14 GA wire from the Starter Relay on the fender to the solenoid on the starter and plugged it on with a small spade connector right close to exhaust manifold. It gets hot and loses conductivity right at the starter. I told squider above that I cut mine back about 3 inches and crimped on a new spade connector. But I think this is will only work for a little while. I am going to run a new wire as the copper in the wire is discolored and I know that is a sign it will not last long.

I wish they still had the fender solenoid like the older FORD trucks had, I do not like them running the battery cable all the way from the battery to the starter like on GM's. To top that off the starter is now a gear reducer starter with the drive gear offset from center of the flange.

 
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