I'm working on a 1984 F-150 with automatic transmission and two wheel drive.
I have a problem with the driver's side caliper not releasing the rotor when I let off of the brake pedal.

What happens is this;

When I first start up and drive off, everything works fine. The first sveral times I brake, the brake pedal feels good, not spongy. There is no sensation of the truck pulling to one side or the other. HOWEVER, there are some drops of brake fluid visible on the hub. ( I have taken the wheel cover off to be able to observe this better) After stopping and going several times, the caliper begins to not let the rotor free even though I have taken my foot off the pedal. Smoke begins to come form around the wheel.

This is what I have done so far;

I thought at first that the driver's side caliper was bad. Some of you may remember me posting this problem earlier. I have replaced both calipers, both rubber hoses that go from the caliper to the metal brake line.

There is something I'm missing.

Here are some qustions I thought of;

Is it possible that there is a build up of rust in the metal brake line that will not allow the fluid to escape after I let off the pedal? If this is the problem, why doesn't it work the other way i.e. shouldn't the driver's side caliper get LESS pressure during a brake application and therefore pull to one side?

Could there be something going on with the master cylinder or brake booster?

I don't know, I am totally befuddled this time. Thanks in advance for the help.

George

 

Thread moved to " Brakes, Steering, Suspension,Tires, Wheels' Forum
Should receive more responses here.

 

I would start at the junction box where the front lines split. It is located on the left side frame rail to the rear (Where you hooked the left side hose. I would flush the system completed from this point. If you are getting good fresh fluid, the only problem is that you may have a bad caliper from the start. It does happen from time to time.

Did you buy new or reman calipers?

Was they OEM or outside supplier?

Reman calipers are money savers, but you generally get what you pay for. If the reman process hones the cylinder out too much and does not put the right oversize cup and seal back in, the cup will **** sideways and not retract.

A simple test is to take it for a drive, let it start acting up, but be ready. Immediately remove the wheel, open the bleeder, place a prybar between the outside pad and baracket, through the hole in the top and see how easy it is to retract the caliper. It should competely collapse with no effort. If it does not, the caliper is defective.

 

They were rebuilt calipers. I got them from one of the chain stores. That is a good idea about flushing the line. I was going to try to buy a new one, but I would have to bend it myself and I have never done that before.

Thanks for the help, I will try this during the week sometime.

George