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I had a few questions about the dash in my truck. Ther is one light out and some wiring i need to check on. How do you remove the wiper and light's *****? i remember a friend helping me with it once and i can't remember if i need a special tool or what. Also i have an aftermarket ammeter in the truck that is not hooked up. I feel kinda dumb asking as i feel i'm pretty handy, but where should i hook the wires to? I figured obviously - to ground, but then the hot lead should go to the main terinam of the alternator?? Thanks for all the help, love the site, it's a great help!
There is a spring keeper on the wiper switch shaft.
On the **** you will see a little notch out of it.
In the notch area insert a hooked device behind the ****(I use a custom bent scriber) and press the spring keeper (which is toward the seat) as you are pulling on the switch ****.
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[font color=red]Dennis
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When i took my light and wiper ***** off, all i did was pull the light **** off and then used a little screwdriver to push that spring so it would release.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Aug-02 AT 10:05 PM (EST)]Don't just pull on it If you can pull the **** off the shaft, then it's broken. The headlight **** has a trick to it. Look at this post from a couple weeks ago...
DON'T hook the ammeter from a hot source (alternator) to ground. It will cause a short. An ammeter goes in series on the hot lead between the alternator and the battery. I would recommend a voltmeter. That would go between any hot lead and ground (after the ignition switch) and would give you a better reading of what your charging system is doing.
Just my $.02 worth.
'77 F-250 Camper Special 400ci
'76 F-250 Supercab 360ci
'71 Mach I 429CJ
Re the ammeter. Above is correct. NEVER connect an ammeter to ground. The difference between an ammeter and a voltmeter is an ammeter has very low resistance and is designed to measure the amount of current flowing in a circuit. Therefore it must be spliced into the circuit to work. A voltmeter has very high internal resistance and is designed to be connected from the point being measured to ground. It tells you the electrical 'pressure' in the system.
To properly install the ammeter in your truck you would need to decide where you want to measure the current. The factory put it in the lead from the ammeter to the battery side of the starter solenoid. You would need to cut this wire, route it into the cab, connect it to one side of the meter and then route a wire from the other side of the meter back to the splice point. This is dangerous as you are routing all the current produced through a long wire under the dash. A voltmeter is simpler, and safer.
I just did the conversion from amp to volt meter and it's MUCH better. I pulled a volt meter from a 75 280Z and it fits inside the dash in the place of the amp guage. Just needed to drill two holes in the dash backing and use the stock 280Z mounting bolts.
It told me my alt was putting out 18+ volts and I fixed it with a new regulator