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Rear brake conversion

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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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Rear brake conversion

Can you replace the rear brake drums (on a 77 F250) with disc brakes? If so how difficult would it be?
 
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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I'm an E-Bay junky so forgive me for always offering advise with E-Bay in it. There is a guy on E-bay that sells the complete conversion kit for 72-79 ford trucks with a rear Dana 60. I bought this kit and it is all inclusive and a direct bolt on. Just type in "Ford Dana 60 Brake Conversion" in E-Bays search box. It's well worth the 250 bucks. What you might also consider is replacing your proportioning valve and master cylinder if you go with rear discs. depending on if you have factory front discs or not. I junked the proportioning valve all together and went with a Wilwood adj. valve. I also swapped out my 75/25 fluid brake booster to a 50/50. This set-up works VERY well for me.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 09:28 PM
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Do you plan to keep your e-brake? Many of the less expensive kits use calipers that cannot work as an e-brake so keep this in mind when you order. The e-brake option usually uses Eldorado calipers but they're getting harder and harder to find. If you don't need the e-brake you can buy the brackets off ebay for around $50, buy the calipers for $60 and a couple hoses and you're set. My truck already had discs up front. I didn't touch the proportioning valve but I did go to a new master cylinder when I did the hydro-booster. It works awesome.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ivanribic
Do you plan to keep your e-brake? Many of the less expensive kits use calipers that cannot work as an e-brake so keep this in mind when you order. The e-brake option usually uses Eldorado calipers but they're getting harder and harder to find. If you don't need the e-brake you can buy the brackets off ebay for around $50, buy the calipers for $60 and a couple hoses and you're set. My truck already had discs up front. I didn't touch the proportioning valve but I did go to a new master cylinder when I did the hydro-booster. It works awesome.
Can't you order the calipers from a parts house? What year of Eldorado? I will keep an eye out, it would be nice to have the e-brake. Although I have seen a setup that has a kit that lets you put a brake on the drive line that runs off the drive shaft.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 12:38 AM
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I also installed disc brakes in the rear. I ordered them from blackbirds.com out of spokane, wa. It was expensive. I also replaced the master cylinder and installed hydro boost from 96 ford f250. I have the original prop. valve. They new brake combination works excellent.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by reignman
I also installed disc brakes in the rear. I ordered them from blackbirds.com out of spokane, wa. It was expensive. I also replaced the master cylinder and installed hydro boost from 96 ford f250. I have the original prop. valve. They new brake combination works excellent.
Were you able to reconnect the emergency brake?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 09:41 AM
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The kit that I bought had E-brakes levers build into the calipers. Thats why it was so expesive. The cables swung under the axle so we had to made brackets that would support/cover them.

I have found other sites on the net that made a e-brake setups on the driveline.
Here is the correct site: www.blackbirdscustomtrucks. com

r
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:24 AM
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was the mastercylinder you got for the 96 F250 or for you truck? How expensive was the hydro boost and was it a direct bolt in?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:51 AM
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I used the mastercylinder from my 79 F250 (bought a rebuild unit). I had to enlarge the whole slightly so it would fit onto the mounting bolts. The hydro boost was from a 96 F250. It was NOT a direct bolt in. I had to made brackets that replaced my orginial brackets on the fire wall. They had to be built so the arm on the hydroboost was in the same exact location as the orginal vacuum boost arm. When comparing it to the original location, it had to be lowered about 1 inch and moved in about 1/2 inch. I also had to cut the hole out a little bigger on the f.w. I don't remember the excact measurements. When the brake pedal was pressed, it had to be clear from rubbing. I used steel tubes with grade 8 bolts inside as stand offs to hold the hydroboost out from the f.w. I could then cut off the tubes to achieve the correct distance. Keep in mind, they had to be cut at an angel due to the upward pitch desired for the hydroboot arm to clear when the pedal was pressed. This took several tries to get what I wanted. I also reenforced the fire wall with a 3/16 plate steel were the boost bolted up. I beleive I used the original 6 bolts on the firewall to bolt the plate down. I replaced the power steering pump also with a 96. (its the same as a 79 externally exept for metric threads.) I bought a used hydro boost from a junk yard in Twin Falls, Id. for $100. It came with the high pressure hoses also. I think I got a excellent deal. So far, I'm very impressed with the setup that I have. I can stop hard and quick with my 79 and still keep the truck straight.

rb
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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I didn't realize you are from mtn. home. Come to boise and check it out if you want!

r
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:54 AM
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apachetech
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Sounds like a nice set up. I live in Mountain Home and I work in Boise on Gowen Field. When I get close o n my rebuild I would like to see yours in person if you didn't mind.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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I'll do that!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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No problem at all. I like talking 70's ford trucks....

rb
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:58 AM
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Same here. I'll email you when I get a chance to look at your truck. Do you live close to Gowen?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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Live at Eagle and Chinden and work at Micron...6am to 6pm.
 
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