problems swapping 390 to 330
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Gashog390,
Thanks for the tip. I just need to find an FE 2bbl intake now. I am assuming they are one size fits all as long as it is an FE.
The vacuum tuning procedure sounds quite straightforward, thank you for explaining it.
Karl
Thanks for the tip. I just need to find an FE 2bbl intake now. I am assuming they are one size fits all as long as it is an FE.
The vacuum tuning procedure sounds quite straightforward, thank you for explaining it.
Karl
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
try to find a pre smog manifold unless you still have to smog it? try to get one without egr. try www.pickandpull.com and locate one near buy they always have tons of these things. because they made millions of these things.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 509
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From: UTI student
I know my presmog intake has no provisions for an EGR on the side of it below the carb. I wish I could ship it to you but the cost prevents me from doing it. Of course if you happened to be about 200 miles East of San Diego then I could hook you up.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 16
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From: Santa Cruz, CA
I agree a cast iron intake isn't very cost effective to ship. Thanks for considering it.
Is the egr manifold a serious drawback or just a minor issue that needs to be capped or plugged?
Karl
Is the egr manifold a serious drawback or just a minor issue that needs to be capped or plugged?
Karl
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
Why spin your wheels and wallet on a 330? Take the 390 and stroke it with a 428 crank and make a 410, add a Crane 343901 cam, performer intake with a 670 Holley and that animal will pull like a 330 would only dream about.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Golden, CO
First things first, make sure your motor isn't worn to the point that nothing helps. Do a dry/wet compression test, check intake manifold vacume at idle. Post the numbers when you get them.
2V vs. 4V: The right 4V is better than any 2V, been there-done that-gonna do it again! My truck came with a 390-4V: Holly 4160, 600 CFM. Cast iron intake with a big letter "S" on the #1 runner. After I wore out the 390, I dropped in a 360-2V with the Motorcraft 2100 carb. Work or play the 390 would get 10 to 12 MPG, the 360 would get 9 or 10. All of this working and playing is at least a mile above sea level (and yes my brains do slide down to my right foot on a regular basis
).
I would be reluctant to take off a 4V intake that is already smog legal. Which intake is it? Which carb and CFM rating? There's no point in throwing good money after bad, a little more info would go a long way.
2V vs. 4V: The right 4V is better than any 2V, been there-done that-gonna do it again! My truck came with a 390-4V: Holly 4160, 600 CFM. Cast iron intake with a big letter "S" on the #1 runner. After I wore out the 390, I dropped in a 360-2V with the Motorcraft 2100 carb. Work or play the 390 would get 10 to 12 MPG, the 360 would get 9 or 10. All of this working and playing is at least a mile above sea level (and yes my brains do slide down to my right foot on a regular basis
).I would be reluctant to take off a 4V intake that is already smog legal. Which intake is it? Which carb and CFM rating? There's no point in throwing good money after bad, a little more info would go a long way.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 16
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From: Santa Cruz, CA
Hypoid,
Thanks for the ideas. The carb is a motorcraft 4bbl as best I can tell.
I don't know how to identify the intake manifold.
I will do a compression test and vacuum check and post back. It might be a few days as several family obligations are hanging over me.
One response to this (or my other thread) indicated I was running to lean and that was causing the detonation under load.
Any ideas on how to test for proper mixture under load? I have seen dashboard mounted fuel air mix gauges that run off a o2 sensor but other than that I am looking for suggestions.
I have cleaned and rebuilt the carb recently so I doubt the lean mixture would be caused by obstructions in the main jet.
Karl
Thanks for the ideas. The carb is a motorcraft 4bbl as best I can tell.
I don't know how to identify the intake manifold.
I will do a compression test and vacuum check and post back. It might be a few days as several family obligations are hanging over me.
One response to this (or my other thread) indicated I was running to lean and that was causing the detonation under load.
Any ideas on how to test for proper mixture under load? I have seen dashboard mounted fuel air mix gauges that run off a o2 sensor but other than that I am looking for suggestions.
I have cleaned and rebuilt the carb recently so I doubt the lean mixture would be caused by obstructions in the main jet.
Karl
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
karl it is form the wrong size main jet. you need a bigger one. that 4bbl carb and intake is stock for your truck. you need # 57 main jets before you melt the pistons or put holes in them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Weld in a bung for a O2 sensor and get a Fuel/Air ratio gauge like AutoMeters, the sensor costs more than the gauge. You can use a good quality digital meter with the sensor as sensors will read from .9 rich to .1 lean volts. (can go up to 1.3 volts). A reading of .45 volts is Stoichiometric or 14.7 Fuel/Air ratio or the "perfect combustion" ratio. The O2 sensor is narrow band only item, a range from 14 to 15:00 to 1. Wide band sensor with meter will run $350 plus but will read 8 to 18:00 to 1. F/A.
Narrow band range is not accurate above and below the range stated above.
Without a meter or F/A gauge go 3 to 4 jet sizes larger. If I recall a # 66 or 68 in a Holley primary and # 72 or 74 secondary. A lean motors like a skinny
woman, can die, a rich motor is like a fat woman that won't die.
.....=o&o>.....
Narrow band range is not accurate above and below the range stated above.
Without a meter or F/A gauge go 3 to 4 jet sizes larger. If I recall a # 66 or 68 in a Holley primary and # 72 or 74 secondary. A lean motors like a skinny
woman, can die, a rich motor is like a fat woman that won't die.
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Sep 10, 2005 at 09:25 PM.
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