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I posted this on my last thread and still need some help,here.....I just picked up a 97 4.0sohc explorer with 137.000 miles on it....it staarts and runs with maf sensor unplugged,but when I plug it in, it stumbles and stalls on accelleration...,it does have a mickey mouse exhaust system on it...with two cherry bomb type mufflers and a dual exhaust on it...the person who ownned it prior to me beat on it and did not do much in the way of maintainence,so it may be a multiple pronged problem...so any help will be greatly appreciated...thanks mike northern illinois
You might try cleaning it with some carb cleaner. Check this link; http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maf.php . It refers to a Mustang, but the principle is the same.
What Jerry said....but when I cleaned mine, I had to scrub the filaments. I saturated an old toothbrush in throttle body cleaner, embeded the filaments (very, very carefully) in the bristles and carefully used the sides of the bristles to scrape the filaments. If you do this, be very careful! The filaments are very thin and a new sensor is about $75.
Wow -wait a minute. There is no way any MAF car will run with the MAF sensor disconnected. Nada. The PCM has no signal for airflow. How can it run and juice up the injectors if it doesn't know what amount of air is coming into the engine?
I don't think cleaning is your answer since the most dirtiest MAF sensors I have ever seen run the engine lean and you get some pinging - but it does in fact run.
There must be more to the picture here. Go ahead and clean the MAF since that is good practice but you have something else going on if you can drive a MAF car without the sensor connected.
Jharger - they will start and run. I don't know how well it will run down the road, but they will start. I know this for a fact because after I cleaned mine one time I didn't plug the sensor back in. Truck started up fine, but the MIL light was staring at me. Plugged it back in and the light went off.
Mike, the first thing to do is read the DTC trouble codes. If the MAF is bad, a code should be triggered. A dirty MAF won't show a code, although it'll make the engine ping and run lean.
Also pay attention to the MAF connector; Ford had trouble with some of these, and even had a recall on some models. Try spraying it with some WD-40, and check the connections with an ohmmeter.
Maybe I'll try this tomorrow maa139 - disconnect the MAF and see what happens. I don expect more than puff and then ide. But yes for the loneranger - most dirty MAF make a lean engine condition - 5 years of that one and I Know it good.
I have a 1990 f series,but since the tech is eons different, I am rather ignorant as to retrieving codes and interpreting them...Any help will be gratefully accepted! Thanks for all of the input already...it is sure helping!
Unfortunately, post 95 vehicles are OBD II, and a code reader or scanner is required to retrieve them. Harbor Freight sells cheap readers for about $50, and AutoZone (and some other auto stores), will read them for free, in hopes of selling parts.
If you can get a code number, we can decipher it, and hopefully narrow down the trouble area.....
I have a 1990 f series,but since the tech is eons different, I am rather ignorant as to retrieving codes and interpreting them...Any help will be gratefully accepted! Thanks for all of the input already...it is sure helping!
Since your truck is a 90, you can use a paper clip and either the CEL light or a voltmeter to pull the codes. There should be directions in your haynes (oif you have one) manual to do this. PM me if you'd like me to scan the instructions from my haynes manual and em them to you. Even though I drive an explorer, pulling the codes should be the same. There is also a technical information sticky in the top of the Ranger forum with instructions to do this. Here's the link to that thread:
The link that you want is 'Pulling EEC IV Codes'. There's another thread a little farther down with the codes and their meanings. Give it a shot and let us know what you find.
Thanks to your help!....My friend and I messed with it this afternoon and ...no more bog and hesitations.....Now I have to work on the blend door stuff!and getting the key fobs......How do you reprogram the pcm for different wheel/tire combos?..Do you need a obd II system? or is there a way to access the pcm through another portal?...This ties into my post about the speedo pinions.....I was thinking OLD SCHOOL...not hi-tech...LOL! Thanks again for all of your help! thanks,mike...
Cleaned the maf housing and hosed off the maf itself...the other end of the airbox ducting was disconnected at the throttle body(the previous owner bent the clamp all up)also threw a bottle of walmart injector cleaner/gas treatment into the tank....and man, what a difference.! Still have a boatload of stuff to do to it...but brakes,blend door and key fob(so I can lock doors without turning key in each door)...but not too bad for a vehicle I picked up on a bad debt.....thanx again!
If you had a major air leak at the intake of the throttle body, this is likely causing the stalling in combination wiith a dirty MAF. You had so much unmeasured air getting into the intake that it choked the motor since the PCM didn't know to add fuel. I haven't seen a MAF so dirty that that was the sole reason for the engine stall. Good news to hear it's fixed.
You can check into some of the aftermarket chip companies, Hypertech, SCT...and find out if their products can reprogram for tire size changes.
For your Key FOB's check E-Bay (as long as you have the factory remote entry system). You should be able to get them for around $15 or so. Check your owners manual for the programming method.