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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 08:51 PM
  #16  
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Ivan, the only way I could tell if the frames were heat treated for sure would be to cut out a section, polish it, and examine the grain structure. I don't have access to that equipment anymore tho... There does not seem to be much info out there that can be relied upon. Unfortunately until it is definitely established that they were not heat treated it is safest to assume they were.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 09:25 PM
  #17  
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From: "Islander"
I helped a friend lower a 69 F250 last year and used my magnetic base Miluwaukee drill press with a end mill bit. Cut down to almost flush then drove the rivets out with a punch. Relocated, redrilled frame and installed 1/2" grade 8 bolts. Total job drive away time 4 hours.
.....=o&o>.....
 
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 11:39 PM
  #18  
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Some good information here guys , awesome.
Well now, I grabbed a, hmm, must be about 8inch zip cut from work today, I was going to just cut off the heads then either try and punch them out or drill them out. I cut two of them off the other week and i tried yuesterday to punch them out, but i didnt try very hard, so Im not sure yet it thatd work.
Either way Ill try and see what works best for me, theres not a whole lot of rivets left on my truck.
I also have some welding done on my frame where i cracked it between the radius arm bracket, its fish plated, the guy ihad do it welded completely across the top and bottom and left the sides.? Looks fine, but cant see stress i guess.
Thanks again guys,
Clayton
 
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 11:42 PM
  #19  
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Welders frequently get carried away and weld too much. It is too much fun I guess...

The damage is done, not to much you can do about it now but keep an eye on it.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 04:04 AM
  #20  
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Clayton, you should be fine with that weld - as long as they didn't weld perpendicular across the frame rail, the overall strength should remain adequate because of the extra plate. If they were to have welded the sides, it could potentially weaken the frame and cause it to bend or fracture where the welds cross the "face" of the frame. Grind down the heads as best you can, smack a good size punch with a 3 pound hammer and those puppies will slide on out. Good luck!
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 09:51 AM
  #21  
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What does "peened" mean?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 12:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by fp_5
What does "peened" mean?
Peened - peening is used to relieve stress in metal. Some places will shot peen where they basically blast the weld with steel shot, similar to what is used in a shotgun. This relieves stress risors that can form during the welding/cooling process. I used a ball peen hammer and whacked the crap out of the weld and surrounding areas both while the weld cooled and after it was done cooling.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 01:18 PM
  #23  
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Yeah, but "peening" sounds so much more technical than "whack the crap out of it"! But that is exactly what it is.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 04:51 PM
  #24  
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Been doing frame work since 71. Subcompacts to 1 tons. I've shortened,lengthed,patched,straightened & stair stepped 4x4s to fit camero & lincoln bodies. NEVER had a failure. I also aligned most of them. Years ago a stick welder, now a mig. Removed many rivets. My favorite method; 1\8 '' drill bit first,then step up. Use a short black oxide bit for the 1/8''. Drills easy. Nothing special about the old frames; cut, drill, weld.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 05:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by rfxj3
Yeah, but "peening" sounds so much more technical than "whack the crap out of it"! But that is exactly what it is.
Well peening indicates the purpose of whacking the crap out of it. If I just said "whack the crap out of it" people might not know why. Otherwise we'd see people with 20 pound sledges bashing their frames. "Why you doin' that??" "Don't know but some guy on FTE recommended I whack the crap out of my frame."
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ivanribic
... "Don't know but some guy on FTE recommended I whack the crap out of my frame."
We have seen that MANY times.. The worst is when 20 users say do XYZ and one user says do ZYQ which is easier so they do that instead of XYZ and they end up crying when it does not work or they ruin something.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 11:53 PM
  #27  
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Yeah, Ill keep my eye on that weld for sure, Thats the last thing id want is to get the whole truck restored and htat fail on me, Id say id be some choked.
Yeah those 2 rivets i did grin di go them flush with the frame, and had a little pointy punch and gave em a good tap with a 3 pounder, didnt hit very hard. Ill see what i cant do tomorrow.
So, is that confirmation that these old frames are not heat treated then?
thanks again,
 
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 12:10 AM
  #28  
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I'll only use grade 8, it's not worth the risk for a couple bucks to me. If the part can come completely off (ie when i did my shackles on last rig) I ground all the rivets flat then a couple good hits with a mallet to the shackle hanger and it was off. I spent hours on the first hanger drilling, breaking bits, binding, bloody knuckles. then the second hanger took like 15 minutes.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 12:36 AM
  #29  
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Thanks Ivan,
I know a few people who would benifit from being peened! after all it will make them stronger in the end!

I kinda of thought that the weld would have to be treated some how. If welding a heat treated frame is "catastrophic" adding plates and re-enforcing the the area with more steel would only move the weakest point to the furthest weld.

Thanks guys I appreciate the lesson.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 06:00 AM
  #30  
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There is no confirmation on whether the frames are heat treated or not. Nobody knows and for lack of any information it is safest to operate like they are heat treated.
 
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