Clutching problem...
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From: Phoenix AZ
Clutching problem...
Ok, I tried a search for “clutch+2000+super+duty+problems” & found all kinds of things (500 to be exact) not remotely matching. I ran into a clutch problem on the way to work last week. The pedal seemed ok, but when I turned into a convenience store, the truck acted like I hadn’t pushed it in. When I got back in the truck, it started up fine, stopped at a few stoplights fine, but when I got on the freeway, it wouldn’t shift. After work I drove home starting it up in gear. Thought there was a hydraulic problem. Took it all out & bled it in my garage. There was some air, not much, plus it was a little low on fluid. There was no evidence of it leaking anywhere. Put it back in the vehicle, & it seemed to have fixed it. Following day, I went out to ride my dirt bike. Stopped at a gas/robbery station 2 miles from home & when I left, it was hard to shift. By the time I got on the freeway, I was shifting without a clutch again. Went riding anyway (only 40 miles 1 way & 3 stop lights). Warmed the truck up while I loaded up the bike. Before I shut it off, so I could put it in gear, I pushed the clutch in. Just before the pedal hit the floor, it made a sound & vibration I felt through the pedal that felt like a froze throw out bearing. I shut it off, put it in gear, pedal down, & it wouldn’t turn the engine over. It acted like the batteries were dead. It would start to turn over, then nothing. I noticed the pedal wasn’t down all the way so I applied more pressure. There was a popping noise & the pedal fell to the floor. Hmmm. I started it up & headed home. First 3 miles were on dirt. When I gave it gas, the clutch started slipping. I got out, pulled out the slave cylinder & saw the fork was all the way forward. How the truck was able to move, I don’t know. I couldn’t get the fork to move. So I put the slave back & drove home @ 70mph, only slipping when I’d try to pass someone. Didn’t smell any burnt clutch.
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So, I’m thinking pivot point on the fork maybe? I haven’t been inside a Ford bell housing that was a hydraulic. I’ve had 4 Ford trucks, a 72, 73, 95 & this one. All have had clutch problems. Not wearing out, but things braking. Like the rod between the bell crank & pedal. Or the pivot point on the fork. Or the pivot point on the bell crank. Or the bushing on the pedal. Or the pivot pins on 3 finger pressure plates brake. I’d like to know what to expect before I yank it out. Anyone got any thoughts? Also would like some opinions as to what to replace it with. AND…looking at clutches on line, I’ve found that the prices (for everything) run from $328.00 to $2020.00. Excuse me? $328.00, then $650.00, $775.00, $876.00, $999.00, $1005.00 & $2020.00. Something is wrong here. Then I see dual mass flywheel upgrade. Can someone tell me what this is?
Thanks.
<o></o>
Oh yeah, truck is a 2000 F350 Super Duty Super Cab Turbo Diesel 6spd 4X4 dual rear wheel.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>So, I’m thinking pivot point on the fork maybe? I haven’t been inside a Ford bell housing that was a hydraulic. I’ve had 4 Ford trucks, a 72, 73, 95 & this one. All have had clutch problems. Not wearing out, but things braking. Like the rod between the bell crank & pedal. Or the pivot point on the fork. Or the pivot point on the bell crank. Or the bushing on the pedal. Or the pivot pins on 3 finger pressure plates brake. I’d like to know what to expect before I yank it out. Anyone got any thoughts? Also would like some opinions as to what to replace it with. AND…looking at clutches on line, I’ve found that the prices (for everything) run from $328.00 to $2020.00. Excuse me? $328.00, then $650.00, $775.00, $876.00, $999.00, $1005.00 & $2020.00. Something is wrong here. Then I see dual mass flywheel upgrade. Can someone tell me what this is?
Thanks.
<o
></o>Oh yeah, truck is a 2000 F350 Super Duty Super Cab Turbo Diesel 6spd 4X4 dual rear wheel.
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From: Duncan,OK
Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging 2 possibilities
1- Check under the dash where your pedal linkage connects to the clutch master cylinder. There is a short arm and a bushing. Check the bushing and the the stud on the arm, if they worn replace.
2- Your pressure plate has gone bad it's clutch time.
Dual mass upgrade? Trust me daul mass flywheels are bad engineering.
They are a 2 piece design with a bearing, the torque springs are made in the setup. The single mass type has the torque springs in the clutch disc.
Dual mass types are also muy heavy.
Pat
1- Check under the dash where your pedal linkage connects to the clutch master cylinder. There is a short arm and a bushing. Check the bushing and the the stud on the arm, if they worn replace.
2- Your pressure plate has gone bad it's clutch time.
Dual mass upgrade? Trust me daul mass flywheels are bad engineering.
They are a 2 piece design with a bearing, the torque springs are made in the setup. The single mass type has the torque springs in the clutch disc.
Dual mass types are also muy heavy.
Pat
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From: Phoenix AZ
I wouldn't expect this from a Ford
Hi Pat, thanks for replying. I thought I gave too much info in my post. Guess it was the wrong info.
I replaced the bushing/keeper after I bled the system. The hydraulics are working properly.
<O:p</O:p
Bad pressure plate? I’m inclined to agree except for one thing, the truck only has 67K on it. I mean EASY miles. It has not been used to haul anything. The only towing it’s done is a 15’ bass boat about 10 times. It’s never been abused. I’ve never rapped it up & dumped the clutch, like I did with the other 3 Ford trucks I’ve had. I mean, some of the things I’ve done with the 72 & 73 ¾ tons would have made great Ford commercials ;-) I surpassed the GVW in them on a regular basis as well as towing heavy loads uphill. The 95 F350 had a 460, 5spd, DRWs with 4.10s, it had no choice but to move out when I stomped the go pedal. I did that often. The price for that was I had to replace the rod you mentioned, the one from the pedal that actuates the master cylinder. Oh, & I replaced tires ;-) But from my experience with Fords, this one should be just about broke in.
<O:p</O:p
I’m not arguing with you, just a bit disgusted. I don’t think I pointed out that the clutch pedal stays on the floor until it’s pulled back, & the fork is stuck leaving the disc to spin free. But it doesn’t.
<O:p</O:p
I’m trying to get some pictures/instructions of the setup before I dive into it. So far I have a Haynes manual that IMO isn’t worth the paper it’s printed on (but it’s better than a Chiltans) & I have a CD bought on Ebay entitled “Workshop Information Truck 2000-2001”. It also says, “Ford Customer Service Division copyright 1999 Ford Motor Company”. It looks authentic, but it has less info than the Haynes. On prior trucks I bought the factory manuals, the 3,4,or 5 volume sets from a dealer here. They tell me they don’t offer those, nor have they ever offered them. So I’m going at this blind. Is there anything on the web or here somewhere maybe that has factory manuals?
<O:p</O:p
Lastly, on the duel mass flywheel conversion, I was worried that’s what I had. Guess not?
<O:p</O:p
I’ve got to get moving on this. From the looks of it, it’s going to take some time…not to mention 2 men & a small boy to get the tranny/transfer case out. Darn things about 4’ long!
I replaced the bushing/keeper after I bled the system. The hydraulics are working properly.
<O:p</O:p
Bad pressure plate? I’m inclined to agree except for one thing, the truck only has 67K on it. I mean EASY miles. It has not been used to haul anything. The only towing it’s done is a 15’ bass boat about 10 times. It’s never been abused. I’ve never rapped it up & dumped the clutch, like I did with the other 3 Ford trucks I’ve had. I mean, some of the things I’ve done with the 72 & 73 ¾ tons would have made great Ford commercials ;-) I surpassed the GVW in them on a regular basis as well as towing heavy loads uphill. The 95 F350 had a 460, 5spd, DRWs with 4.10s, it had no choice but to move out when I stomped the go pedal. I did that often. The price for that was I had to replace the rod you mentioned, the one from the pedal that actuates the master cylinder. Oh, & I replaced tires ;-) But from my experience with Fords, this one should be just about broke in.
<O:p</O:p
I’m not arguing with you, just a bit disgusted. I don’t think I pointed out that the clutch pedal stays on the floor until it’s pulled back, & the fork is stuck leaving the disc to spin free. But it doesn’t.
<O:p</O:p
I’m trying to get some pictures/instructions of the setup before I dive into it. So far I have a Haynes manual that IMO isn’t worth the paper it’s printed on (but it’s better than a Chiltans) & I have a CD bought on Ebay entitled “Workshop Information Truck 2000-2001”. It also says, “Ford Customer Service Division copyright 1999 Ford Motor Company”. It looks authentic, but it has less info than the Haynes. On prior trucks I bought the factory manuals, the 3,4,or 5 volume sets from a dealer here. They tell me they don’t offer those, nor have they ever offered them. So I’m going at this blind. Is there anything on the web or here somewhere maybe that has factory manuals?
<O:p</O:p
Lastly, on the duel mass flywheel conversion, I was worried that’s what I had. Guess not?
<O:p</O:p
I’ve got to get moving on this. From the looks of it, it’s going to take some time…not to mention 2 men & a small boy to get the tranny/transfer case out. Darn things about 4’ long!
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From: Duncan,OK
At the shop we've found that over time the finger on the clutch cover become weak from heat, and then they flex more than they should. this keeps it from disengaging completely. The problem seems to get worse the longer you drive it because the as the already weak fingers warm up they flex even more. I'll bet when you start out and everything is still cool it shifts ok.
Pat
Pat
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From: Phoenix AZ
MY FORD WAS NEVER FOUND ON ROAD DEAD! They always get me home.
Thanks Pat. No, it doesn’t mater if it’s cold or not, the throw out fork is all the way forward. The only shifting done was by matching rpm to speed, & that was just to get home.
Can you tell me how the throw out fork is set up? I haven’t seen inside the bell housing of a hydraulic actuated clutch. Is the pivot point on one end, the opposite end from the slave cylinder? I still haven’t seen any pictures or drawings of the fork. I did order a factory manual though. Hope it gets here before I finish the project.
I was wrong about the length of the tranny & transfer...It's not almost 4' it's 56"!
Can you tell me how the throw out fork is set up? I haven’t seen inside the bell housing of a hydraulic actuated clutch. Is the pivot point on one end, the opposite end from the slave cylinder? I still haven’t seen any pictures or drawings of the fork. I did order a factory manual though. Hope it gets here before I finish the project.
I was wrong about the length of the tranny & transfer...It's not almost 4' it's 56"!
Last edited by badfordX4; Sep 7, 2005 at 05:44 AM. Reason: Font too small again
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From: Duncan,OK
The pivot is on the same side as the slave. Removing the T-case will make the job easier. With a good jack you should be able to side the tranny back enough to do the job with out dropping it plumb out.
Pat
Pat
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