radiator shroud
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radiator shroud
I'm wondering if I need to find the inside shroud for my '36 engine-85HP? It seems to run fine without it now and there is alot of room down below to put an electric fan. How big a deal is the originality of these old vehicles? I'd like to stay at 6V but would like to get that alternator that fits in the gen. housing. Some mag. had an article about a man in Florida that redoes them but I've tried calling him several times with no body there. Any ideas would be helpful.~Tks~JH
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From: Kalispell, MT
Need a shroud? Some do, some don't. Henry thought they were necessary, but if your engine isn't overheating you can probably get by without it.
Originality? That's something that each owner has to figure out. My truck is slightly modified, but I've saved all the stock pieces so it could be rebuilt as stock if someone wanted to in the future.
I'm not sure who the guy is you're referring to, but you could find out at one of the flathead specific forums such as fordbarn.com
Originality? That's something that each owner has to figure out. My truck is slightly modified, but I've saved all the stock pieces so it could be rebuilt as stock if someone wanted to in the future.
I'm not sure who the guy is you're referring to, but you could find out at one of the flathead specific forums such as fordbarn.com
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From: Orange County, CA
Not sure about a guy in FL doing the alternator thing, but I know there is a shop here in Southern California that is building alternators that look like the stock flathead gen. The company is E.J. Whitney in Fullerton, CA, phone is 714-773-1611
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From: Minneapolis
For appearance purposes, I'd put on a shroud. It affords some safety too. It might keep a hand or a falling tool out of the fan. Sometimes a spinning fan is difficult to see.
If you are going to convert to an alternator, I'd go the extra step and make it 12 Volt. Your engine will crank and start faster and you'll be running half the current through your battery cable, solenoid, and starter cable.
If you are going to convert to an alternator, I'd go the extra step and make it 12 Volt. Your engine will crank and start faster and you'll be running half the current through your battery cable, solenoid, and starter cable.
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Tks for the feed back! My guess is that shrouds are hard to find, but I'll keep my eyes open now and go to afew more bigger swap meets. I may as well go 12V and do the drop thing to keep the gauges. Have you ever gone to or used 'Little Dearborn' as a vendor? Just wondering since you are so close. I'm thinking I should get over there and check them out instead of sitting around at some car shows and doing nothing. Well, better let you go, talk to you later maybe! Tks again~JH
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gen/alt
Originally Posted by 46fordtruck
Not sure about a guy in FL doing the alternator thing, but I know there is a shop here in Southern California that is building alternators that look like the stock flathead gen. The company is E.J. Whitney in Fullerton, CA, phone is 714-773-1611
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rad. shroud
Originally Posted by mtflat
Need a shroud? Some do, some don't. Henry thought they were necessary, but if your engine isn't overheating you can probably get by without it.
Originality? That's something that each owner has to figure out. My truck is slightly modified, but I've saved all the stock pieces so it could be rebuilt as stock if someone wanted to in the future.
I'm not sure who the guy is you're referring to, but you could find out at one of the flathead specific forums such as fordbarn.com
Originality? That's something that each owner has to figure out. My truck is slightly modified, but I've saved all the stock pieces so it could be rebuilt as stock if someone wanted to in the future.
I'm not sure who the guy is you're referring to, but you could find out at one of the flathead specific forums such as fordbarn.com
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alt/gen
Originally Posted by 51frrdtrk
The latest issue of Street Rodder Magazine (pg.36) shows a 12 volt alternator in a generator housing. Item is made E.J. Whitney Company, Fullerton, California. (714) 773-1611
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From: Minneapolis
I've heard that at higher engine RPMs (like I get with a 4.86 3rd member), that the water pumps are moving the coolant so fast that it does not dwell in the radiator long enough to effectively transfer heat from the coolant. When you slow down, it slows the coolant flow and the radiator can do it's job.
Regarding Little Dearborn, I find them to be a bit expensive. I remember going in there in the 60's with my father to get a wiring harness for his 40 Ford 1-1/2 ton truck (jail bar).
I've found most of what I've needed, including my truck, on ebay. I've seen shrouds on ebay when someone is parting out a truck.
Regarding Little Dearborn, I find them to be a bit expensive. I remember going in there in the 60's with my father to get a wiring harness for his 40 Ford 1-1/2 ton truck (jail bar).
I've found most of what I've needed, including my truck, on ebay. I've seen shrouds on ebay when someone is parting out a truck.
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From: Kalispell, MT
Hey MT! My truck hasn't overheated yet, but when it gets to 85 or 90 outside it goes up to 180 and I keep my speed down to 50mph or less, works so far.
I use 180 Tstats in my 48 F1 so it is always at or above 180. Flatheads like heat and need to run in the 180-200 deg range to adequately evaporate the crankcase vapors and prevent sludge from forming in the oil. A flathead in good condition will typically run 100 degs warmer than the ambient outside temperature. Like I said, if you're not overheating you don't have a problem.
Steve is right on regarding early flathead waterpumps. Jon your '36 pumps may work just like that.
With all this said, each vehicle is unique and you'll run into things specific to your rig that doesn't fit the pattern. The only way to know for sure is drive it long enough to figure out all its quirks. Have fun!
I use 180 Tstats in my 48 F1 so it is always at or above 180. Flatheads like heat and need to run in the 180-200 deg range to adequately evaporate the crankcase vapors and prevent sludge from forming in the oil. A flathead in good condition will typically run 100 degs warmer than the ambient outside temperature. Like I said, if you're not overheating you don't have a problem.
Steve is right on regarding early flathead waterpumps. Jon your '36 pumps may work just like that.
With all this said, each vehicle is unique and you'll run into things specific to your rig that doesn't fit the pattern. The only way to know for sure is drive it long enough to figure out all its quirks. Have fun!
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From: Michigan
Thats one expensive alternator. I converted my 51 over to 12 volt. Bought new field coils for the generator along with regulator. Replaced all the light bulbs. Bought new 12 volt 5 inch gauges from TPI Instrument. Replaced ignition coil and added ballast resister. Still need to replace heater blower motor along with wiper motor.
Now i just touch the starter button and away she goes.
I have the optional 4:27 third member (looking for a 9 inch 3:50 rear out of a 72 f-100)and while running at 50MPH the engine runs about 180 degrees.
Now i just touch the starter button and away she goes.
I have the optional 4:27 third member (looking for a 9 inch 3:50 rear out of a 72 f-100)and while running at 50MPH the engine runs about 180 degrees.
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From: Minneapolis
My truck had a 12 Volt generator when I bought it, and it cranked and started OK. I recently bought an Optima gel cell battery and installed 1 gage battery and starter cables that were both a foot shorter than the old cables in there. My, does that crank fast and start nice.
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From: Minnesota
Check with your local auto electrical shops. There's a place just down the road from me that will convert my original 6V generator to 12V, AND throw in a new regulator for $ 150.
Lots less than $400 - Then you may not have to wait for Christmas and birthday - trick-or-treat ??
Lots less than $400 - Then you may not have to wait for Christmas and birthday - trick-or-treat ??