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finally got back to my scan tool and these are the codes it threw after i plugged the egr valve back in and installed my turbo back exhaust
i am really concerned about the first one
any ideas on what that is?
also how come when i put my edge to level 5 it bucks and throws a gear ratio not correct code and the tow/haul light flashes?
any help would be appreciated
thanks
jason
Injector circuit low can indicate that that injector is going bad. If it starts throwing a contribution/balance error code in that same cylinder, the injector is toast. If you haven't had the injector wiring harness recall done yet, this would be a good indicator to do so...a screwy injector connector can throw this code too. The instrument panel codes are rather mysterious...unless you have a loose connector under the dash or a short somewhere?.
As for the Edge on level 5- the gear ratio incorrect code is because the output shaft speed sensor rpm level is lower than what it should be when calculated because the Edge is making it slip like hell....Frankly, that code is your transmission crying "Please don't incinerate me". When this code is thrown, it has gotten to the point where slippage is rather severe, because the RPM error limit for that code is quite large. The only time my Tow/Haul light ever came on when I fried mine was the night at the track that I totally finished it off. It made it home, but it didn't want to.
I would get that tranny flushed and filtered immediately. Honestly, I wouldn't count on it too much longer even after you do so.
well all the codes cleared once i let the truck warm up and redid the test everything seems fine
except for the trans. problem you really think it is on its way out?
i only recently installed the edge so this problem is most likely from before is this a common problem w/03?
It doesn't neccessarily mean it IS history, but it does indicate slippage on a level that will wipe the trans out extremely quickly if not dealt with.
The Edge makes great power, but by not addressing the transmission these are the problems it poses. The stock TCM file simply is not configured to deal with those quantities of torque, and what you get is damaging heat and slippage.
If you keep the Edge down on level 3, you probably won't run into many issues. Lots of WOT runs on level 5 WILL destroy the transmission, no if, ands, or buts about it.
you think just a flush and change of the fluid will help?
what do i need to be able to run on level 5?
SCT w/tranny tune? new tranny? tranny mods if so what do you suggest?
thanks alot for the info
I would get it flushed immediately.
An SCT transmission only file will help significantly. If you want to go the extra mile and install the Suncoast kit, it's tough to the point where I haven't managed to break it yet. I would suggest doing both if you want to invest the money...if not, go with the SCT.
Wow, check this thread the next day, surprised at the turn of events; sounds like it is a good thing you had a way to check for DTCs and some good feedback and advice from Matt.
how about that suncoast kit is that something that can be done in the driveway?
you run level five much?
The tranny has to be dropped...its pretty much a gut the whole thing and replace it procedure. It's just a set of clutches and new pressure pistons, but everything has to come out to do it. I wouldn't have the stomach to attempt it outside the shop myself. Once it's done though, it is stupid strong- the Edge will shift with absolutely no slippage even on level 5 with no learn time. By the time you load the SCT it will be barking hard, and the non-shift line pressure will be up plenty high enough to maintain grip, especially with the extra clutch plates.
Suncoast, SCT, and an Edge together makes one hell of a towing setup. If you are just wanting to fly out on the street, you are better off dropping the Edge and going with a full-blown SCT race tune from one of the many vendors, or go pro-racer and do it yourself.
On my truck, the Suncoast kit comes in for a close second in ranking for the best modifications, right behind the Evans coolant conversion...
definately going towards towing but when i am not i have tendency to show off a bit. so i think suncoast and sct is the way to go
now you really think the suncoast is not a do it yourself and if not who to do it?
also what about warranty issues with ford?
definately going towards towing but when i am not i have tendency to show off a bit. so i think suncoast and sct is the way to go
now you really think the suncoast is not a do it yourself and if not who to do it?
also what about warranty issues with ford?
what is this cooler conversion?
There are two big issues when doing the tranny...being able to get it out from under the truck, and having the know-how to fully rebuild it yourself.
I took mine to work and stuck it on the lift to yank it out. I also got the help of a Master Certified transmission tech of whom works for us, because quite frankly I have nowhere near the transmission experience needed to fully rebuild one myself. The entire "guts" of the transmission have to be removed from the front of the bellhousing- none of the main components are accessible from the pan. You'll also have to have the equipment and know-how to properly shim the new clutch packs and install new seals as you finish.
If you've done trannies before,and have the tools, its not tremendously different from a C-6 in primary construction. Get yourself a shop manual and go at it. If not, I'd make sure a damn good Ford transmission technican gets his hands on it. The parts from Suncoast run about 700 bucks; you'll also need a rebuild/seal kit from Ford, a new Direct Drive solenoid, and a new PC-A (pressure control) soleniod. The parts all in all will run about 1k, and the labor will be around 800. If you do it, there's not gonna be any warranty on the tranny left...but you realistically won't ever need it...Suncoast's kit is tough stuff. It won't affect the warranty on the rest of the truck; Ford will simply deny a tranny claim because it isn't their parts.
Evans Waterless coolant is just 100% propylene glycol coolant, in place of the half-and-half water/ethlyne that you get from the factory.
i know you are in NC but anyway you could get any recomendations for long island NY
or any one else that could chime in to recommend one for that matter
ps thanks for all the info Matt(i think someone said that was your name)
Don't really know anyone up there, but I think Ford_Doctor is in your area. He really seems to know his stuff; I'd find out from him where he is located and take it there, if you don't find any other local dealers you trust in your area.
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